So i have a bit of an issue here.. and thought someone may know whats wrong.

This is the third time this has happened, and the first time was the 9th of July, and just on Monday again, and now today after work. But when i start up my car, it starts up sluggish, then when i go to drive off, it seems to have like no power. I try to boost and its nothing, and when i shift or even give it gas and let off, it sounds like a leak of air or big flutter. The first time it's happened i got home, turned the car off checked everything out, it all seemed tight and whatnot, so let it be for a little bit, turned it back on went up the street and it was like nothing happened. It was the same the 2nd time. Now the third time (today), it worked fine when i was on lunch break etc, but its now doing it again. Everything seems to be tight and all, but i have no boost or something. Its weird and annoying.

I'm just throwing this out there, but all times its happened it seems to be have in the dead heat 30+degrees celsius and no wind or anything. When i have turned the car off, i can hear fans shutting down etc. I don't think the heat is the issue, but just a thought.

Anybody experience this or may be able to tell me whats wrong? Now i get no CEL's or nothing. Mods are 3" catback / 3" catted dp / dejon hotside pipe / dejon sri / gms1 and trifecta tuned.

Thanks,

Mike

 

If it's the GM stage Kit

It's almost always bad installation of MAP sensor or a boost leak. On the same note, if the lower MAP sensor wiring is loose or get condensation on it then the car will act like this. The wiring is very close to A/C line.

Get the car scanned. It might be showing a DTC, but not showing a CEL.

 

It very well may be that, i have had the ac cranked up for the fact that its stupid hot out. I'll have to keep an eye out on that.

Thanks for the heads up! Don't call me stupid, but whats a DTC?

 

It's a fault code. You can have codes stored with no CEL light. If you have GMS1, it's definitely something with the TMAP in your coldside pipe, or the connections to that sensor.

 

Well it sucks to hear but atleast you'll get to experience what I've been going thru for the last 4 months. Welcome to the beginning of hell..... Lol

 

Turned off the AC, and it works fine. I drive with the windows down anyway, don't think its as big as problem as yours Jerren lol.

 

Mines in the dealer getting the bpv replaced, but it's not that. I know my vacuum is leaking big time. When I unhook it, most of the flutter is gone. Hopefully urs isn't anything serious.

 

Are they just replacing the turbo, or are they actually replacing the flapper and all that stuff that's on your old turbo?

 

They are just replacing the rubber diaphram and spring that goes in the turbo, and probably replace the vac tank aswell.

 

My car has been in and out of the shop for a while now, and its been the same issue.
The only mod i had was a hahn CAI and i would have huge flutter not matter how much boost i made. The dealer replaced the bpv and tons of other things (i would have to find all of my service receipts to list). Finally i got a call today and was told that they soldered the gms1 sensors. I even got a call from the gm rep saying they wont pay for the fix since it was my intake. after i got that call i immediately put the stock intake back on and unplugged the battery for 20 minutes to clear the ecu. and still got the CEL and flutter, but much worse with the stock intake (although you can barely hear the flutter since the stock plastic intake masked the sound). and NOW the dealer tells me the boost gauge is showing an error on the rpd and they are getting a new boost gauge put on monday.

and gm tells me they wont buy back cars that are 2 years old....

if soldering doesnt fix the wires im going to do a leak test from the turbo inlet to the TB.
i think this might be the last GM product i own.

 

If the RPD is not showing boost data your lower map is either wired incorrectly or blown. I keep wondering if some of the dealers are wiring the upper sensor incorrectly because they are only three wires on the factory 2.5 bar sensor but 4 wires on the 3 bar sensor. IIRC pin #2 is not used but they may be mistaking pins 2 and 3. They are labeled with very small numbers but are easy to overlook.

Your vac tank likely has a leak in it.

 

So could that cause my car not to spool up as fast as it used to, cause flutter and a loss of power?