1966tbird

I just received a 2008 Cobalt SL with 110k miles. While its no spring chicken, i think its not too bad and still has plenty of potential.
Today was my first chance to get it out on the road.
It needs front end work!
So will 08 SS stabilizer links (250mm) work well on the orig. LS sway-bar ?
I need to replace the struts and will be ordering at least SS struts. I have not justified changing springs today.

More later

thewafflesareburnt

iTrader: (2)

I have ss/tc struts with the moog ss endlinks on my stock sway bar. I also have a 2008 ls

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I'd like to see a picture of what that looks like with the wheel off if you wouldn't mind. The SS end links are significantly shorter. With the SS end links and the stock sway bar it would change the effective torque radius on the sway bar causing it to not work as intended. More of your suspension travel force will be directed into the bushing instead of torquing/rotating the bar. I'm not saying it won't all bolt together as you indicated that is the way yours is but I don't think that is the right way to do it and could definitely be affecting your handling adversely.

thewafflesareburnt

iTrader: (2)

I thought it was the mounting points on the struts that changed the length of the endlink needed. I could be wrong though although I've had it on the autocross a few times since this and have not noticed any bad affects.
Edit: I also replaced the bushings trying to troubleshoot a problem and they were still in good shape

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

Iirc it is the sway bar that changes the length. I am pretty sure the strut housings are identical but I will try and check tonight. How close is the sway bar to your steering linkage there? Swaybar position looks fine in this picture but it looks like it's in the location it should be in once your suspension is compressed. I'll try and see if I can find an old conversation I had with Powell about this and see what he said and report back.

thewafflesareburnt

iTrader: (2)

Sounds good I'd obviosly rather have the correct ones if they're not lol. That picture is from a year ago I'll get a picture of it on the ground tonight. The knuckle may have had a jack under it in the picture

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I went back and looked and I was able to confirm that it is the sway bar end profile that is different. With your stock bar setup technically the SS end links are not correct. However, I do not know to what extent this affects the dynamics of your suspension travel so I can't comment as to whether you should change it or if it is nothing to worry about.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

If you use lowering springs or the SS springs you'll want the shorter sway arms. If you run the longer sway arms it causes problems (I forget exactly what they are, either Maven or halfcent have a commented about it in the suspension subforum talking about it)

thewafflesareburnt

iTrader: (2)

All good info for op. I'm just gonna call mine good since it handles decently and there are no clunks lol

jdbaugh1

iTrader: (1)

I'm not saying you don't want the shorter arms here (for sure) but I can attest that the longer arms work fine with YYZ springs as I ran it that way for a while before I swapped to the 24mm bar. I also would like to hear more about the lower sitting springs needs shorter arms theory and why that may be. Just would like to get this cleared up once and for all because there seems to be plenty of confusion.

1966tbird

Thanks
JD and waffels
This is cool it has answered several questions.
I have read and re-read mavens suspension posts. I didnt see his statment that waffels images have answered.
Great images!
It tells me it will bolt up.
Since link R&R is EZ with air tools, i can install the struts take it out and then put the 250mm links in and have something to compare.
Now if i can find a post with images to show the 18mm vs 24mm front sway bar, that would help.
Also trying to understand Geometry diff JD spoke about.
Any word from powells is worth sharing and sharing again.
Anyway. Im on the lookout for the 24mm FE5 bar and digging into the bolt on rear assists for the stock LS rear sway bar.

While under the BC for the first time, oil dran plug looks like some one put it into the garbage disposal....Twice! Then used a hammer on it.
While the threads are clean, that poor hex head has seen it's day. Now on my list of get this soon stuff.
The next thing while waiting on the oil was tranny mount Left side.
Now i could be upside down backwards but mount bolts to the engine with 3 bolts. Lower bolt hole in the casting bit a curb....and stuck into the curb...l only have a hole.
Since the other 2 bolts are still alive, for a while. It dose not make me feel good, i dont think it will fall out.

1966tbird

A little update
Both LCAs came out like a sore tooth.....very painless.
Struts disassembled and i'll clean the parts directly.
FedEx said they are on the road out for delivery...translation..sometime before dark.
So as im looking under the BC, i find something not good.
It looks as if the prior owner tried to get the BC to eat a concrete curb.

I think there is just enough enough of a boss to thread and possibly rebuild with an Aluminum spacer and structural epoxy.

Your thoughts?
Take a look at the front mount. Image taken looking to the right

exninja

iTrader: (1)

Holy crap!

The only fix I could possibly see is welding a nut to the bellhousing and a sleeve to the mount (or a new mount).

JapEatr

iTrader: (9)

hit up Powell. he has a fix for this

1966tbird

Thanks for the replies...
Struts reassembled with new bumpers (didnt order them) the originals were eaten by the blown shock oil.
new boots came with the bumpers.
Thanks to the local parts store for getting new acceptable replacements.

RH LCA installed finger tight. I need to load the the arm/ spindle to get the squeeze pin aligned.
Out of steam for a bit. Hope to get both sides torqued down by dark.

Will sent off a request to powel askinghim to take a look

Made supper and passed out and didnt even get a single beer. 8hr later and ready to atack it again now 02:45 and a bit dark. Time for the flood lights
Went back out at 07:30
Now finished with front for a while.
The 250mm links bolted up without a hitch.
I did use cheep $20/pair from Rock instead of $20 each Moog.
I can tell Moog is a higher quality part.

Warning
Get the strut install kit if you buy Delco FE5 struts.

1966tbird

Oh my YES!!!
Those are much better than blown ls shocks
Dont know watt the 250 mm links do.
Now im on the lookout for the 24mm front sway bar. And advise for upgrading rear sway bar.
While looking i will replace the original 100k mile used shocks in the rear to the new delcos i have in the box.

Btw i running on fairly new 15" Toyo tires that came on the BC when i purchaced it.
Fun little car to drive.

I do need to do something with the shifter.
New post comming in radio section. No sound from door panels.