When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
The OEM bulbs are hard soldered incandescent. They look to be an 18-24 volt bulb as at a full 15 volts charging voltage they are still somewhat dim. That helps prolong the life but they are what they are. They receive ignition voltage so you can't just use an led without a dropping resistor in series. I used some strip LED's I already had laying around with the dropping resistor already installed.
I reshaped it to take up less space and to get all 3 in the place of one bulb which is why it is so bright. They also have an adhesive backing which is great in holding them where you want them until soldered.
My 2008 Sport had incandescent bulbs, not LED's. I haven't had every year of Cobalt dash apart, just mine.
Below is a pic of the 2 incandescent bulbs (circled) I replaced with 3 LED's
The bulbs received ignition voltage so there is no way a 3v LED would survive.
I know the stock bulbs aren't leds. The bulb size is plcc2. In all speedometers. And yes the voltages are 1-3. I use them all the time. I have hundreds of them. I've probably sold over 10 ac controls I convert to leds with the same bulbs. Mine have been working at that voltage with no resistors for over 4 years in my car. I get mine from https://www.oznium.com/plcc-2
"Surface Mount PLCC-2 SMT LEDs
All Customer Questions
PLCC-2 Surface Mount LEDs
Q: Since I can't use a 9 volt battery for testing these before I install, 2 AA batterys would give me 3 volts would that work? - by Ted (Cumming, GA)
A: You most certainly shouldn't to hook these up to 9 volts. That would blow them out...
As you can see on the product page, the maximum voltage is between 1.9 to 3.2 volts depending on the color of the LED".
This is from a well know dash modifier which means the HVAC voltage is also system voltage.
Hi Richard,
Thank you for contacting us. Can’t speak for the entire dash but the gauge cluster lights and HVAC panel lights are incandescent bulbs. Let me know if you have any questions.
Had a new windshield put in yesterday to go with the $3700.00 worth of PDR work done to fix the hail damage. Insurance companies love PDR... I don't.
Damn didn't realize the hail hit Parker too, destroyed things up in Arvada, I have a few little dings thankfully I was in the right area of Golden and missed the nasty baseball hail.
Just in case you need a full parts list, this is everything you need. Plus wideband, boost gauge and pillar.
Supercharger+gasket
4x supercharger bolts(can get them from crateenginedepot.com)
Intake manifold+gasket
Intake manifold bracket
Heat exchanger
Ic pump+plug
Ic pump bracket
Lsj idler pulley
Lsj tensioner(zzp adjustable optional for smaller pulley)
Lsj belt or stage 2 belt for smaller pulley
Intake
Lsj throttle body
Lsj throttle body adapter harness from zzp
Maf extension harness from zzp
Ev6 injectors or ev1 injectors+ev1 adapter harness
Spark plugs
2x 60mm shoulder bolts part#0154419
5x 10mm shoulder bolts part#0154418
7 washers for bolts
Those are for the intake manifold. Ordered from fastenal. Can't use lsj bolts. We need m6
Lsj map sensor(will need to be rewired to work) or your stock map sensor will work but you won't be able to read iat2
Lsj windshield washer tank(yours will have to be deleted)
Hoses for heat exchanger
Coolant hose
Random clamps
I want to supercharge my terrain. my tuner said no way hes tuning a mom wagon lol
So I relocated my ABS module and both PCM and TCM to see how much room I could make. I could now install any CAI I want in fact have a used ZZP in there now. I reinstalled the modules but will need a molded hose to clear the TCM... Yes, this is an auto. I am not impressed with the fit or quality. I honestly would like to see what an OEM box looks like in there.
Put the pipe in the stripping solution, bead blasted to give it a finish the PC will adhere to. ZZP PC'd right over the polished finish and was chipping off.
I'm glad I started on this a night early as I was hoping to knock this out in a couple evenings.
Beck's thread has you ordering an OEM steel shim intake gasket which will block off the PCV port which I don't want to see the results of. Most engines that have the PCV plugged become oil leakers with serous crankcase pressures. I will be making my own tonight and channeling the intake manifold as Slowbalt suggested.
I had to get numerous bolts that I didn't have, especially the 3 m8X1.25X120mm long Alternator bracket bolts. I am not excited at all about suspending the manifold and supercharger on 6mm intake bolts like the lightweight plastic manifold was so I think I am going to make all the threads 8mm tonight in the head.
Doing a mock up my 3.1 pulley is just hitting the front support so that will need to be altered and the bottom of the manifold where the mount boss is built up is just tapping the block, not letting it sit flush so a little adjusting there. The motor mount was removed so I could install the LSJ brackets and that is all back in place.
The ZZP CAI does fit so moving the ABS was a success.
I was on a 2.7 pulley and had to bash in that front metal piece. And for the m6 bolts in the manifold they work fine. I bought shoulder bolts from fastenal and they have been working for me for almost 3 years now. Build is looking good by the way. I just finished mine.
05-22-2017, 02:34 PM
Moderator
