Hey Everyone,
This is my first post and just want to say hi to everyone.

I have an 09 Cobalt LS and will be replacing the stock shocks with KYB's. I want to retain the stock highth, but make it handle a lot better for street use. I was thinking of changing the sway bars.

Will the factory SS bars work, or should I use Eibach bars?

I live in N. Cal where we have some incredible back roads and feel it could be a lot better than what it is. I drive the car very hard.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Dimitri Manesis

 

As many other have done. Just switch out to the SS/TC shocks, struts, sway bars and such. The SS/TC is setup very well and handles like a dream. With a good set of tires on you would be set to go. Pretty cheap as well.

 

Thanks for your response. When I order the SS sway bars, will I need to order other parts like end links, or sway bar bushings or will I be able to use my existing hardware?

 

Well there is so much debate on this topic. If you replace the factory sway bar with a bigger sway bar I believe you will need bushings and endlinks for the bigger bar. If you get something like the TTR sway bar or progress bar then you won't even need to pull out the stock bar just use what the companies send to you.

ask the member named Maven. He knows everything and can help better than I

 

That's all right, I don't mind replacing the end links as well. I was thinking about replacing the stock shocks with KYB's leaving the factory springs. Any thoughts???

 

This is partly right. The fact with the LS and LT cobalts is that there is no rear swaybar. All we have is a torshion beam. All you have to do to add the TTR or progress bar is bolt it up, takes 5 minutes and don't even have to jack car up. It will make a significant differance, and if done alone, will give just a hint of oversteer.

If it were me, I would get some wider tires, which would help A LOT!

 

I think a lot of people under estimate the SS/TC struts and springs on an LS/LT car. It would make the car very stiff and handle amazingly. Match that with a set of wider grippy tires and you will be set.

 

I did not know that the LS does not have a rear sway bar. Can one be installed??

 

Yes this will be a direct bolt on (takes about 10 minutes)

http://www.turbotechracing.com/produ...idproduct=5148

 

I think you will find that it does in fact have a 22 mm weld in sway bar. All the current balts to my knowledge have this configuration, weld in bars. either 22 mm FE3, 23 mm early FE5 and 24mm (latest 08/09 FE5) check with maven i think i am right here, but I am not an expert on LS/LT and maven is he drives and auto-x's one. Some Cavaliers did not have a weld in bar in their twisting beam...

the poster who said add TC shocks and springs is right it makes for a nice handling car, but the issue of an added rear sway bar, its stiffness, material used to make it and the roll center change is a complex configuration issue so again PM Maven he can help you I am sure. good luck

just checked the sticky on this started by Halfcent, good job added to by Maven:I was right all c obalts have weld in bars, here are the specs|:
""
The suspensions:
Starting with the FE1, and then the changes with each up-level system

FE1 suspension
19-mm front stabilizer bar
16-mm rear stabilizer bar
Stamped steel front lower control arms

FE3 suspension
22-mm front and rear stabilizer bars
Cast aluminum front lower control arms
FE3 shocks and springs

FE5 suspension - 2005-07 years
24-mm front stabilizer bar
FE5 shocks and struts. The springs may be different from some FE3 models.
Larger front end links

FE5 suspension - 2008 and up years
24-mm rear stabilizer bar
NEW FE5(LNF) shocks, struts, and springs.
Updated front knuckle
""

 

I mean a sway bar, I do not want to go with a TTR or a progress bar.

How can I get a hold of Maven.

 

he will killme if i publish his email, just PM me and I will help you. click on my forumname and it will give you adrop down box with a pm config...thanks

 

I am new to posting, what and how do I PM you

 

go over to the left put the mouse cursor on my name and click, the click on "send s private message to qwikredline" etc

 

PM replied to.

 

All production Cobalts have front AND rear antiroll bars.

 

So if I put the bwoodyperformance front sway bar links on my SS/SC I will need new bushings?

 

I am a bit old school. If you want better handling, there is no better way to start with lighter wheels and better tires.

All performance (power, braking and handling) mods ultimately have to go thru the bottleneck of the tire's contact patch and the stickness of the tire's compound, they are literally the "gatekeeper" of performance. IMO, doing wheels/tire upgrade is the cheapest way to boost the car's overall performance and should be the first step of modding.

 

I agree it is the most basic of mods..... I already have upgraded my tires to 225/40/18 Goodyear Eagle F1 tires. I will need new tires soon but haven't decided on 235/40/18, or 245/40/18 or 245/35/18. Wheels tend to be a bit pricey but when I find a set I fall in love with I will go for it....that and I am really thinking hard about the SS/TC, and a Camaro 2SS.....

 

It may be the best way to improve all aspects of performance, but its far from cheap....A good set of tires is at least $400, and good wheels are gonna run you over $1000, thats a big chunk of change for a lot of people.

The OP has a base model, s simple spring swap and rear bar will make a HUGE difference in the handling of the car, add in a set of good brake hoses and good front pads and youre still only at less than $600 and with what most most people will consider more tangible difference than a set of sticky tires(LS wheel/tire is already light, hard to get much lighter and go bigger)

 

I wish I could get better wheels and tires for 1400 bucks.




:runsandhides:

 

I said at least, douche. And if you had 4lug hubs you could easily get 15lbs wheels and good tires for $1400.

 

I understand, I tried to make a funny.

Anyhoo, everything said here has been pretty spot on.

I would be against not wanting to drop the car, because you could get a set of FE5(SS/SC or SS/TC) springs and barely drop it, but improve the overall attitude of the car a **** ton.

Getting wheels/tires would give the most 'right this second' improvement in feel. If you decide to do this, do not go out and buy the absolute best rims, then spend pennies on overly cheap tires. A quality summer or UHP all season tire will make the car a whole different handling beast all together.

 

I hear ya, actually I think a good package will be more like $800 for tires and $1500 for wheels.

I realized I should have said the "efficient" not "cheap". The problem with wheel/tire upgrade tended to take a backseat as performance mod goes is the performance gain is usually less noticeable when people tune their car by "feel", as the gain is spread out thru out multiple facet of the cars performance vs a specific one. Not to mention 90% people see a tire/wheel package as nail polish and lipsticks, which is nothing more than a "dress up" item to them.

If people tune by "data", they will usually see a healthy drop in lap times (obviously the amount will depend on circuit configuration) just with a nice set of tires and wheels for the amount spent.

 

For an LS you can get a set of 14-17lb wheels and some nice BFG KDW2s, Direzza Z1s, or Kumho MX's for right around $1400

I would imagine very few people here (or on most forums)build cars via data, as very few have any data to analyze. Virtually noone, particaularly those asking what the "best" spring/brake pad/shock/sway bar will ever even see a race track in order to get lap times, and I would imagine based on the talk around here that many people even desire to much more than look good or go quickly a straight quarter mile at a time.

It only takes about $50 to go autocrossing in my area of the world. It may be cheaper or more expensive in your area, in the course of an autocross day I get to drive my car at least 4 times longer than I do if I were to go the dragstrip, yet Ive only ever seen 2 or maybe 3 other Balts max at the local autox layout, yet you go to the dragstrip and theres regularly a larger turnout