Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

for all those considering a brembo swap

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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:28 AM
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for all those considering a brembo swap

ok well figured id make one of these anyways just so we can have specific information for anyone considering a brembo swap(yes i know they are in a sticky but that info is scattered across the thread so i figured this would help.

what youll need:

Rotors- P# 15893541 (left and right)

Brembo Calipers- FRONT LEFT P #25900763 FRONT RIGHT P# 25900764

pin kit- P#25900781

pad kit - P# 22705327


ok thats what youl need, and its also suggested that you may want to try some new brake lines, although it isnt necessary

my question is i know you need washers and what not, what size washers do we need etc?



**this swap will bolt directly to the 5x110 setups**
** 4x100 setups need a hub swap**
**please note there will be clearance issues with wheels and this swap**

Last edited by mike25; Feb 20, 2009 at 09:42 PM.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mike25
ok well figured id make one of these anyways just so we can have specific information for anyone considering a brembo swap(yes i know they are in a sticky but that info is scattered across the thread so i figured this would help.

what youll need:

Rotors- P# 15893541 (left and right)

Brembo Calipers- FRONT LEFT P #25900763 FRONT RIGHT P# 25900764

pin kit- P#25900781

pad kit - P# 22705327


ok thats what youl need, and its also suggested that you may want to try some new brake lines, although it isnt necessary

my question is i know you need washers and what not, what size washers do we need etc?



**this swap will bolt directly to the 5x110 setups**
** 4x100 setups need a knuckle/hub swap?(someone clear this up?)
washers for what? the crush washers for the brake lines? ? and if you look at Mavens post non LNF brake banjo to caliper is different.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:53 AM
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Still waiting on aftermarket stainless braided lines that are TC compatable. Anyone no of a set yet?
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:55 AM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
washers for what? the crush washers for the brake lines? ? and if you look at Mavens post non LNF brake banjo to caliper is different.
so to make it work on a non tc vehicle we will need that specific banjo?
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:56 AM
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clicky. intrested.
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mike25
so to make it work on a non tc vehicle we will need that specific banjo?
ya. I have stock TC hoses here and am working on doing the conversion, for LS1Fbody, got all the pieces but i have other stuff to do so not working on it at the moment....maybe later today....or not
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:07 AM
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hhmm so thats the only thing holding this swap back? are you using the specific banjo for the brembo calipers and just trying to figure out a way to mate them to the stock hoses?
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:13 AM
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Originally Posted by mike25
hhmm so thats the only thing holding this swap back? are you using the specific banjo for the brembo calipers and just trying to figure out a way to mate them to the stock hoses?
banjo bolt, washers and hose are all mated. so its a two step: stock parts, and then braided stainless hose conversion with stock banjo bolt and stock washers; washers are generally generically sized. The hang up is often metric sizing for available aftermarket braided lines...
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
banjo bolt, washers and hose are all mated. so its a two step: stock parts, and then braided stainless hose conversion with stock banjo bolt and stock washers; washers are generally generically sized. The hang up is often metric sizing for available aftermarket braided lines...
i believe i have an idea of what your saying.. your basically taking the brembo caliper and rigging it up to work with stainless lines? pics of this once you get it done possibly?
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by mike25
i believe i have an idea of what your saying.. your basically taking the brembo caliper and rigging it up to work with stainless lines? pics of this once you get it done possibly?
can do
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 01:31 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
ya. I have stock TC hoses here and am working on doing the conversion, for LS1Fbody, got all the pieces but i have other stuff to do so not working on it at the moment....maybe later today....or not
whooopishh! back to work!
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by mike25


ok thats what youl need, and its also suggested that you may want to try some new brake lines, although it isnt necessary

my question is i know you need washers and what not, what size washers do we need etc?



**this swap will bolt directly to the 5x110 setups**
** 4x100 setups need a knuckle/hub swap?(someone clear this up?)
If you get new GM brakes hoses they come with banjo bolts and crush washers installed.

You do not need new hoses or bolts for a Brembo swap. You MUST use new copper crush washer every time you remove or install a brake hose though. You can get washer for stock hoses at any quality auto parts store.

Direct bolt-on for 5 lug car. For 4 lug you need a solution, but you dont need a new knuckle though, all non turbo cars use same knuckle.

Originally Posted by qwikredline
you look at Mavens post non LNF brake banjo to caliper is different.
Only the rears are different Qwik, I couldnt use the TC rear brakes without TC hoses because the bolts are different(routing is different to but I'll make it work )

Originally Posted by shabodah
Still waiting on aftermarket stainless braided lines that are TC compatable. Anyone no of a set yet?
FTP/Technafit makes some, the only difference is the rear two hoses, the front and mid hoses are same. I have had issues with my hoses.
Originally Posted by mike25
so to make it work on a non tc vehicle we will need that specific banjo?
Newp.

Originally Posted by mike25
hhmm so thats the only thing holding this swap back? are you using the specific banjo for the brembo calipers and just trying to figure out a way to mate them to the stock hoses?
Theres nothing that is an issue with a front swap on a 5 lug car except wheel clearance
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 08:50 PM
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i got a stainless hose kit, unfortunately, the banjo is wrong, but happily the oem banjo fits the hose. so new washers and hammer down...OTTP sell Cobalt DOT braided stainless plastic shielded kits and based on what Maven says the banjo's are interchangeable so you are alright get new washers I got pics cant post them here so PM me for emails this stuff cannot stay on the forum its becoming a blueprint for other folks to copy....cant wait to see the ZZP single pass laminova copy by the way....
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:08 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
i got a stainless hose kit, unfortunately, the banjo is wrong, but happily the oem banjo fits the hose. so new washers and hammer down...OTTP sell Cobalt DOT braided stainless plastic shielded kits and based on what Maven says the banjo's are interchangeable so you are alright get new washers I got pics cant post them here so PM me for emails this stuff cannot stay on the forum its becoming a blueprint for other folks to copy....cant wait to see the ZZP single pass laminova copy by the way....
are you referring to me to pm you?

sweet so all that is needed is the parts i listed. well assuming my car isnt totaled i will be doing this instead probably
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Old Feb 18, 2009 | 09:46 PM
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saved
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 08:54 PM
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on a side note whats the size of the tc front rotors? i want to see if i can find them in slotted or cross drilled
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 08:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mike25
on a side note whats the size of the tc front rotors? i want to see if i can find them in slotted or cross drilled

315 x 26mm 55 mm swept area. you wont. I am working on a slotted floating rotor and alloy hat conversion got the rotors figured out need the time to plot it out and machine the hats....
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Old Feb 20, 2009 | 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
315 x 26mm 55 mm swept area. you wont. I am working on a slotted floating rotor and alloy hat conversion got the rotors figured out need the time to plot it out and machine the hats....
that sucks...i wonder if any besides your will ever be made...if you dont mind id like to see what they look like when your done with them...pm me and ill give you my email if thats cool.
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 03:24 AM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
315 x 26mm 55 mm swept area. you wont. I am working on a slotted floating rotor and alloy hat conversion got the rotors figured out need the time to plot it out and machine the hats....
niiiiiice.
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 03:49 AM
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Originally Posted by mike25
that sucks...i wonder if any besides your will ever be made...if you dont mind id like to see what they look like when your done with them...pm me and ill give you my email if thats cool.
Why does it suck?

Why does everyone think drilled and slotted rotors are better?
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 04:55 AM
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slotted is fine, and it is a performance upgrade, but drilled on anything but an all out race-car is kind of pointless.
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 10:18 AM
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I dunno guys. When I'm braking from 130 mph after the long straight, going into turn 1 on the local roadcourse here, I really don't think drilled and slotted rotors are going to hurt. I definately noticed an improvement from the stock SS/SC rotors to the GMPP drilled/slotted ones.
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by shabodah
I dunno guys. When I'm braking from 130 mph after the long straight, going into turn 1 on the local roadcourse here, I really don't think drilled and slotted rotors are going to hurt. I definately noticed an improvement from the stock SS/SC rotors to the GMPP drilled/slotted ones.
Theres very few people here who drive very hard on any kind of regular basis.I dont think drilled rotors arent a problem for the 1%'ers of the site, but there are so many people here who "warp" their rotors, and constanly bitch that the stock brakes are junk that its really just easier to have these people avoid cheap drilled rotors(because thats what they buy)

Regardless that some people have acceptable results with drilled rotors the fact of the matter is that drilling a rotor makes it more prone to cracking, and reduces the amount of heat it can handle. And I'd be willing to bet that a nice set of 296mm Brembo, Alcon, or PFCs would change your mind on how nice those GMPP pieces are. When you switched from stock to GMPP were your stockers shot and you wnet straight to GMPP?

Again, when you tell GM you want the best brake for the CTS-V they TAKE OFF the drilled rotors.....hmmmmmmm
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by steddy2112
Why does it suck?

Why does everyone think drilled and slotted rotors are better?
i never said they were. i want them mainly for show. i dont drive my car like i stole it and i definitely dont brake hard at all. im at 40k miles on stock pads/rotors..im just going to need something before long because i dont want to wear the stock rotors down to much more...they arent warped or anything, theyre just wearing down
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Old Feb 21, 2009 | 06:53 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
When you switched from stock to GMPP were your stockers shot and you wnet straight to GMPP?
Actually, I had just been to the track (Blackhawk Farms), and after the whole weekend of beating the crap out of the car, and also that it was at 35k miles, and the GMPP stuff had just came out, I figured I'd just jump on it. I've used lots of different combinations of powerslot, hawks, ebc stuff in the past on other cars, but not the redline. I am very familiar with the brembos on the Evo, and was never that impressed with them, but, these ones on the TC seem to be quite a few steps up from the stockers on the Evo IX.

But yeah, I completely agree with you on the issue with aftermarket, junk, ebay, drilled/slotted rotors. 99% of those are pure crap. I wouldn't have considered buying the ones I did if they weren't backed by GMPP.
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