Auto-X
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
true but i put them both on incase some one wants shocks and springs vs coilovers, i mean the Koni shocks and some nice springs seems like a good combo, but i don't know all that much when it comes to suspension companies.
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From: Minnesota
tires: Competition grade (check tirerack.com)
wheels: 17" light weight (check out the group buys on css.net)
springs: Eibach Pro-kit
shocks: Koni
brake pads: Hawk HP Plus
brake disc: Stop Tech
brake lines: Garden Hoses
sway bar: Unk
strut bar: TTR, soon to be released
wheels: 17" light weight (check out the group buys on css.net)
springs: Eibach Pro-kit
shocks: Koni
brake pads: Hawk HP Plus
brake disc: Stop Tech
brake lines: Garden Hoses
sway bar: Unk
strut bar: TTR, soon to be released
Last edited by rallyracer; Mar 9, 2008 at 07:33 PM.
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Joined: 11-13-05
Posts: 7,548
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From: Pittsburgh/Norfolk
tires: Competition grade (check tirerack.com)
wheels: 17" light weight (check out the group buys on css.net)
springs: Eibach Pro-kit
shocks: Koni
brake pads: Hawk HP Plus
brake disc: Stop Tech
brake lines: Garden Hoses
sway bar: Eibach
strut bar: TTR, soon to be released
wheels: 17" light weight (check out the group buys on css.net)
springs: Eibach Pro-kit
shocks: Koni
brake pads: Hawk HP Plus
brake disc: Stop Tech
brake lines: Garden Hoses
sway bar: Eibach
strut bar: TTR, soon to be released
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Joined: 02-03-08
Posts: 3,454
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From: Port Perry Ontario
lose weight /aftermarket h.e/dual pass/remote fill/stage 2/lose weight/corsa exhaust/flca mod lose weright, see GM Grand Am build book
I'd recommend them to anyone who is lowering or auto-x ing.
the only thing you need to worry about!!! Some things you put on the car will put you into a new class. You need to decide if that part is worth the class jump becuase in some cases you'll be up against AWD Subarus and the like that you'll have no chance against.... I think you should just take that into consideration if your gunna auto-x
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Joined: 06-08-05
Posts: 18,529
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From: Pittsburgh
what would be a good set up for road racing and auto-x?
tires: depends on how much you want to spend - r-compound competition tires are the best
wheels: no larger than 16" and as light as you can find them
springs: depends on where you live. i can't really do anything with springs myself because of the area where I live, but you may be able to go with Sportlines or at least the ProKit from Eibach
shocks: Konis. Period. That's if you don't go coilover.
coilovers: Obviously the best option out there would be adjustable coilovers.
brake pads: Hawk HPS
brake disc: Stock OEM blanks or Brembro blanks. For performance driving DO NOT fall into the drilled/slotted trap - that's the worst thing you can put on your car.
brake lines: stainless steel all around. Should be one of if not the first mod you do.
sway bar: Go larger front and back. A lot of cars do better with a smaller front or a front delete and larger back. After a lot of runs and expert opinions, the SS/SC needs a larger/stiffer bar up front.
strut bar: MRZ front strut bar, their design should be slightly more rigid than the DC sports design.
etc:
tires: depends on how much you want to spend - r-compound competition tires are the best
wheels: no larger than 16" and as light as you can find them
springs: depends on where you live. i can't really do anything with springs myself because of the area where I live, but you may be able to go with Sportlines or at least the ProKit from Eibach
shocks: Konis. Period. That's if you don't go coilover.
coilovers: Obviously the best option out there would be adjustable coilovers.
brake pads: Hawk HPS
brake disc: Stock OEM blanks or Brembro blanks. For performance driving DO NOT fall into the drilled/slotted trap - that's the worst thing you can put on your car.
brake lines: stainless steel all around. Should be one of if not the first mod you do.
sway bar: Go larger front and back. A lot of cars do better with a smaller front or a front delete and larger back. After a lot of runs and expert opinions, the SS/SC needs a larger/stiffer bar up front.
strut bar: MRZ front strut bar, their design should be slightly more rigid than the DC sports design.
etc:
the only thing you need to worry about!!! Some things you put on the car will put you into a new class. You need to decide if that part is worth the class jump becuase in some cases you'll be up against AWD Subarus and the like that you'll have no chance against.... I think you should just take that into consideration if your gunna auto-x
Thread Starter
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Joined: 10-28-07
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
well i wouldn't really be out there to win at first, mainly just to have fun. but from what i am getting a good set up would be
tires: Bridgestone Expedia S-01 ($436)
wheels: stock
springs: H&R Race Spring Set ($226)
shocks: Koni Sport Cartridge ($652)
brake pads: Hawk HPS ($126)
brake disc: stock
brake lines: Goodridge G-Stop Brakeline Kit ($115)
sway bar: stock
strut bar: stock
so for just over $1500 I would have a pretty good set up. and would that put me into a class that I would get bent over in? since it would be my first time doing any kind of auto-x. also I drive a '08 Sport (2.4L/5-spd)
tires: Bridgestone Expedia S-01 ($436)
wheels: stock
springs: H&R Race Spring Set ($226)
shocks: Koni Sport Cartridge ($652)
brake pads: Hawk HPS ($126)
brake disc: stock
brake lines: Goodridge G-Stop Brakeline Kit ($115)
sway bar: stock
strut bar: stock
so for just over $1500 I would have a pretty good set up. and would that put me into a class that I would get bent over in? since it would be my first time doing any kind of auto-x. also I drive a '08 Sport (2.4L/5-spd)
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Joined: 06-08-05
Posts: 18,529
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From: Pittsburgh
id say take the car out and play with it in the stock class and learn to drive first (no disrespect, it takes a while to get it down). only do mods that allow you to stay in the class you plan to run, once you get bored of that class then move up and do some more mods.
one big issue with the cobalts and autocrossing is the steering knuckles, they tend to break around the hub when under the stresses of autocrossing/road racing, and when they break they can cause some serious damage. gm does have a performance steering knuckle avalible to fix this issue, the only problem is if you put them in you cant run is stock (its all because the word performance, if they used the word "heavy duty steering knuckle" it would be ok)
one big issue with the cobalts and autocrossing is the steering knuckles, they tend to break around the hub when under the stresses of autocrossing/road racing, and when they break they can cause some serious damage. gm does have a performance steering knuckle avalible to fix this issue, the only problem is if you put them in you cant run is stock (its all because the word performance, if they used the word "heavy duty steering knuckle" it would be ok)
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 10-28-07
Posts: 3,713
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
id say take the car out and play with it in the stock class and learn to drive first (no disrespect, it takes a while to get it down). only do mods that allow you to stay in the class you plan to run, once you get bored of that class then move up and do some more mods.
one big issue with the cobalts and autocrossing is the steering knuckles, they tend to break around the hub when under the stresses of autocrossing/road racing, and when they break they can cause some serious damage. gm does have a performance steering knuckle avalible to fix this issue, the only problem is if you put them in you cant run is stock (its all because the word performance, if they used the word "heavy duty steering knuckle" it would be ok)
one big issue with the cobalts and autocrossing is the steering knuckles, they tend to break around the hub when under the stresses of autocrossing/road racing, and when they break they can cause some serious damage. gm does have a performance steering knuckle avalible to fix this issue, the only problem is if you put them in you cant run is stock (its all because the word performance, if they used the word "heavy duty steering knuckle" it would be ok)
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From: Pittsburgh/Norfolk
the eibach doesnt exist
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Joined: 06-08-05
Posts: 18,529
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From: Pittsburgh
They'er a little over $300/each from CED now.
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Joined: 06-08-05
Posts: 18,529
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From: Pittsburgh
Heh. I can think of at least 7 people I've seen on here and that I know in person who have had them break just with normal street driving. Hence why I'm not comfortable taking anymore chances with mine. Auto-x I'm not too concerned about, but if I break one out on a road course at 140+......the car is totaled and I may be too. Put it this way, $600 is way less than the damage you'd be repairing if you were to break one.
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From: Minnesota
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Joined: 02-03-08
Posts: 3,454
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From: Port Perry Ontario
i gotta say that the steering knuckle will only break if you hit something with it...say a curb or another car, hard. In normal auto x its fine.
the only broken ones i have seen are in crashes...not to say it cant happen, but i wouldnt spend a dime on knuckles if I were you. By the way it is a Pontiac G6 part, with a machined steering arm for correct steering arm height and lower ball joint hole drilled to take untapered ball joint.
Whoever said: "In fact, you’re more likely to win the lottery while being struck by lightning during a shark attack." than break a knuckle.
Whoever said you should run the car straight up and learn said it right. BTW i tried Konis once. They are shorter. So you lose ride travel. what does that mean? Car goes around corners lifiting inside wheels like a dog at a hydrant...ugly....maybe they have changed by now, who knows? Stay stock SS/SC and be happy...
the only broken ones i have seen are in crashes...not to say it cant happen, but i wouldnt spend a dime on knuckles if I were you. By the way it is a Pontiac G6 part, with a machined steering arm for correct steering arm height and lower ball joint hole drilled to take untapered ball joint.
Whoever said: "In fact, you’re more likely to win the lottery while being struck by lightning during a shark attack." than break a knuckle.
Whoever said you should run the car straight up and learn said it right. BTW i tried Konis once. They are shorter. So you lose ride travel. what does that mean? Car goes around corners lifiting inside wheels like a dog at a hydrant...ugly....maybe they have changed by now, who knows? Stay stock SS/SC and be happy...
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: 10-28-07
Posts: 3,713
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From: Tall Timbers, MD
i gotta say that the steering knuckle will only break if you hit something with it...say a curb or another car, hard. In normal auto x its fine.
the only broken ones i have seen are in crashes...not to say it cant happen, but i wouldnt spend a dime on knuckles if I were you. By the way it is a Pontiac G6 part, with a machined steering arm for correct steering arm height and lower ball joint hole drilled to take untapered ball joint.
Whoever said: "In fact, you’re more likely to win the lottery while being struck by lightning during a shark attack." than break a knuckle.
Whoever said you should run the car straight up and learn said it right. BTW i tried Konis once. They are shorter. So you lose ride travel. what does that mean? Car goes around corners lifiting inside wheels like a dog at a hydrant...ugly....maybe they have changed by now, who knows? Stay stock SS/SC and be happy...
the only broken ones i have seen are in crashes...not to say it cant happen, but i wouldnt spend a dime on knuckles if I were you. By the way it is a Pontiac G6 part, with a machined steering arm for correct steering arm height and lower ball joint hole drilled to take untapered ball joint.
Whoever said: "In fact, you’re more likely to win the lottery while being struck by lightning during a shark attack." than break a knuckle.
Whoever said you should run the car straight up and learn said it right. BTW i tried Konis once. They are shorter. So you lose ride travel. what does that mean? Car goes around corners lifiting inside wheels like a dog at a hydrant...ugly....maybe they have changed by now, who knows? Stay stock SS/SC and be happy...
but i am going to leave it stock for the time being but i wanted to know for future purchasing.
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