Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes
View Poll Results: What are the best rotors?
Stoptech: Slotted/Drilled
0
0%
Stoptech: Drilled
0
0%
Stillen: Drilled
0
0%
Powerstop: Drilled
0
0%
Power Slot: Slotted
2
16.67%
Cobalt-Addiction: Slotted/Drilled
0
0%
EBC 3GD: Slotted/Dimpled
2
16.67%
EBC Ultimax USR: Slotted
2
16.67%
R1 Concepts: Slotted/Drilled
6
50.00%
R1 Concepts: Drilled
0
0%
R1 Concepts: Slotted
5
41.67%
Multiple Choice Poll. Voters: 12. You may not vote on this poll

BEST Brake Rotors(4 BOLT)

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Old May 21, 2010 | 12:25 AM
  #1  
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BEST Brake Rotors(4 BOLT)

What are the best aftermarket rotors for the LS(4 BOLT)?
I set the poll to allow multiple choices because there may be some that are equally good.

Post your personal experiences if you have used any of these.
I don't think there's been a good comparison thread yet...if there is lmk and i'll delete this.
Prices are W/O shipping unless otherwise noted.

Stoptech: Slotted/Drilled-$236
Stoptech: Drilled-$233
Stillen: Drilled-$223
Powerstop: Drilled-$206
Power Slot: Slotted-$190
Cobalt-Addiction: Slotted/Drilled-$170
EBC 3GD: Slotted/Dimpled-$165
EBC Ultimax USR: Slotted-$150
R1 Concepts: Slotted/Drilled-$99
R1 Concepts: Drilled-$99
R1 Concepts: Slotted-$99

Let me know of any other brands to add.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 12:35 AM
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None of the above.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 01:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
None of the above.
You're a 5 bolt TC...any specific reason you're trolling this thread?
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Old May 21, 2010 | 01:16 AM
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stay away from the drilled stuff....stick with dimpled/slotted or just slotted....unless you got some kind of ram air feeding the drilled rotors
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Old May 21, 2010 | 01:20 AM
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Originally Posted by mrsilent13
stay away from the drilled stuff....stick with dimpled/slotted or just slotted
I assume you're talking about the risk of cracking. Is that really a risk with the LS though? We don't have nearly the clamping force.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 03:49 AM
  #6  
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do u really want to risk cracking...not only that when u cross drill a rotor it loses its cooling effect...the vanes create a vacuum which help cool down the rotors.....but if you cross drill you lose that vacuum so in that case u would need to feed some kind of ram air to your rotors to keep them cool...just like the corvettes do...have u ever looked at the corvette brakes....they are cross drilled and they are also being fed some ram air to help keep them cool due to them not having the vacuum effect from the cross drilling
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Old May 21, 2010 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mrsilent13
do u really want to risk cracking...not only that when u cross drill a rotor it loses its cooling effect...the vanes create a vacuum which help cool down the rotors.....but if you cross drill you lose that vacuum so in that case u would need to feed some kind of ram air to your rotors to keep them cool...just like the corvettes do...have u ever looked at the corvette brakes....they are cross drilled and they are also being fed some ram air to help keep them cool due to them not having the vacuum effect from the cross drilling
true true...i wouldn't go with drilled but those are the options I was able to find and I wanted to make the thread as comprehensive as possible...thanks for the input.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 12:53 PM
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last I heard, all rotors are made with the same cheap metal from china... I think its kinda ridiculous to say drilled rotors will crack.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 01:27 PM
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Originally Posted by JL-KA
You're a 5 bolt TC...any specific reason you're trolling this thread?
WTF does having a different rotor have to do with the fact that you listed overpriced crappy drilled rotors, and one overpriced slotted?

Get blanks, and an attitude adjustment.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JL-KA
I assume you're talking about the risk of cracking. Is that really a risk with the LS though? We don't have nearly the clamping force.
Clamping force isn't what causes drilled rotors to crack, it's heat cycling. I've seen a bunch of drilled rotors crack on low performance cars with single piston sliding (lower clamping force) brake calipers. Since modern brake pads don't outgas like they used to in the past, holes or slots are not necessary for all but the most extreme applications (pro racing). By drilling holes in the rotor you're actually losing effective surface area that the brake pads can clamp against.

99.99% of the people on this board will get the best performance and brake rotor life out of a high quality blank. 9 times out of 10, for a street car that will be an AC Delco rotor, or something of comparable quality/craftsmanship, I.E. something made in the USA.
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Old May 21, 2010 | 02:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Wangspeed
WTF does having a different rotor have to do with the fact that you listed overpriced crappy drilled rotors, and one overpriced slotted?

Get blanks, and an attitude adjustment.
haha...because you come in and say "none of the above" and leave you tool. make an educated post and support your statement or gtfo. you still have not supported it. do you care to now? or do you care to gtfo? your choice. even if you were 4 bolt and came in saying that i'd say gtfo...its one of my pet peeves when people don't support their arguments. it just makes you look ignorant.(not saying you are)

Originally Posted by LSChris
Clamping force isn't what causes drilled rotors to crack, it's heat cycling. I've seen a bunch of drilled rotors crack on low performance cars with single piston sliding (lower clamping force) brake calipers. Since modern brake pads don't outgas like they used to in the past, holes or slots are not necessary for all but the most extreme applications (pro racing). By drilling holes in the rotor you're actually losing effective surface area that the brake pads can clamp against.

99.99% of the people on this board will get the best performance and brake rotor life out of a high quality blank. 9 times out of 10, for a street car that will be an AC Delco rotor, or something of comparable quality/craftsmanship, I.E. something made in the USA.
thank YOU for making an educated post. I was under the impression it was a combination of heat and pressure...good to learn something new.

Last edited by JL-KA; May 21, 2010 at 02:16 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old May 21, 2010 | 03:24 PM
  #12  
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i have R1 drilled and slotted rotors with hawk pads, great rotors, lots of hard braking and many 150-0 stops at the track, still perfect and NO CRACKS.

Drilled rotors dont crack nearly as easy as everyone makes them out too. Hell some of the fastest cars out there used drilled rotors. Its about who makes them and how they drill them.

R1 gets my vote, been great to me
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Old May 21, 2010 | 11:01 PM
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I have been thinking about a air shoot system for our front rotors on our TC's. Wouldnt be hard to do.

Also for my opionion on you'r list. whatever type you deside to go with make it R1 concepts
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Old May 22, 2010 | 12:02 AM
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Originally Posted by sheldon729
I have been thinking about a air shoot system for our front rotors on our TC's. Wouldnt be hard to do.
Nope...pvc routed from the front and then cut a hole in the wheel well liner...should do the trick.
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