Best coilovers
stance for right now but they could use better rear spring rates.......none really come close in comparison with the exception on anze, penske ohlins which will blow stance clear out of the water.
Read up on the BC Coilovers offered for us. I've been running them for a bit over 2 years now.
according to BC's website & MRZPERFORMANCE.com
spring rates
front: 8k / rear: 6k
32 way dampening on all four corners
Pillowball mounts
camber plates
Up to 3" drop
Picked them up for 999.99 at the time; I'm sure they're cheaper now.
Megan I believe offers a similar setup now as well for 799.99.
Just read up on the spring rates...
Ultimately it's gonna come down to how stiff you want your ride to be (i.e.: spring rates), dampening adjust-ability, and price.
Which works best for you?
There isn't a single coilover out for us that offers a stiffer rear spring rate than the front springs.
On the other hand though...
The manufactures usually offer stiffer rear springs that can be purchased at a minimal cost separately for those who are not satisfied w/ entry level.
------------------------------------------------------------
This should help you a little...
kg/mm to lbs/in
-----------------------------
16 = 896
15 = 840
14 = 784
13 = 728
12 = 672
11 = 616
10 = 560
9.0 = 504
8.5 = 476
8.0 = 448
7.5 = 420
7.0 = 392
6.5 = 364
6.0 = 336
5.5 = 308
5.0 = 280
4.5 = 252
4.0 = 224
3.0 = 168
2.0 = 112
according to BC's website & MRZPERFORMANCE.com
spring rates
front: 8k / rear: 6k
32 way dampening on all four corners
Pillowball mounts
camber plates
Up to 3" drop
Picked them up for 999.99 at the time; I'm sure they're cheaper now.
Megan I believe offers a similar setup now as well for 799.99.
Just read up on the spring rates...
Ultimately it's gonna come down to how stiff you want your ride to be (i.e.: spring rates), dampening adjust-ability, and price.
Which works best for you?
On the other hand though...
The manufactures usually offer stiffer rear springs that can be purchased at a minimal cost separately for those who are not satisfied w/ entry level.
------------------------------------------------------------
This should help you a little...
kg/mm to lbs/in
-----------------------------
16 = 896
15 = 840
14 = 784
13 = 728
12 = 672
11 = 616
10 = 560
9.0 = 504
8.5 = 476
8.0 = 448
7.5 = 420
7.0 = 392
6.5 = 364
6.0 = 336
5.5 = 308
5.0 = 280
4.5 = 252
4.0 = 224
3.0 = 168
2.0 = 112
Last edited by 100% METH; Feb 19, 2010 at 01:23 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Trust me, Stance is where it's at for those. I've been riding in the first Stance Cobalt for over a year now. It's the best handling car I've been. Dare I say it's handled better then a 240 with Stance coilovers, I think so.
Stance was designed for the drifting community who needed a coilover that could stand up to the abuse. If it can help control a drift car, it can help control any car in twisties.
A good set of tires will help a lot.
I don't think there's a sway bar combination that can make up for the weaker spring rates when compared to a coilover setup.
Stance was designed for the drifting community who needed a coilover that could stand up to the abuse. If it can help control a drift car, it can help control any car in twisties.
A good set of tires will help a lot.
I don't think there's a sway bar combination that can make up for the weaker spring rates when compared to a coilover setup.
Last edited by slowswap; Feb 19, 2010 at 09:46 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Tires, I dont have to worry, I have 225/45/17 Hankook RS2's on the front and 245/45/17 Hankook Ventus evos on the back. Plenty of stick as long as I dont hit gravel.
Trust me, Stance is where it's at for those. I've been riding in the first Stance Cobalt for over a year now. It's the best handling car I've been. Dare I say it's handled better then a 240 with Stance coilovers, I think so.
Stance was designed for the drifting community who needed a coilover that could stand up to the abuse. If it can help control a drift car, it can help control any car in twisties.
A good set of tires will help a lot.
I don't think there's a sway bar combination that can make up for the weaker spring rates when compared to a coilover setup.
Stance was designed for the drifting community who needed a coilover that could stand up to the abuse. If it can help control a drift car, it can help control any car in twisties.
A good set of tires will help a lot.
I don't think there's a sway bar combination that can make up for the weaker spring rates when compared to a coilover setup.
Weaker how? Most of those who build and track these cars are running TC struts and Pedders springs.
The pedders rates are actually very good, and with the ott bar dial in a bit of oversteer on street tires. Neutral on slicks.
Drift cars have very soft rear suspension to allow for a smooth transition into tire wasting silliness.
:facepalm: no, it is designed by the ,an who made the TA car. As far as I know I'm the only non dedicated race car to have a time attack beam.
The pedders rates are actually very good, and with the ott bar dial in a bit of oversteer on street tires. Neutral on slicks.
Drift cars have very soft rear suspension to allow for a smooth transition into tire wasting silliness.
The pedders rates are actually very good, and with the ott bar dial in a bit of oversteer on street tires. Neutral on slicks.
Drift cars have very soft rear suspension to allow for a smooth transition into tire wasting silliness.
The rear hardcore bar plus Konis will have a better positive impact than a set of coilovers. Sadly, almost all the coilovers offered for the Cobalt have pretty crappy valving. I was reminded of this as I rode around in a student's STI on track. Pedders are okay, but I don't like them as much as everyone else does.
For a daily driven car? Konis, Pedders, and the hardcore bar are pretty much unbeatable. You'll compromise your ride a bunch with all the crappy Cobalt coilover options (KW excluded, which uses Koni rears). The other coilover options limit the amount of droop and bump severly. Less available travel means those bumps are going to be even harsher. Combine that with the poor valving characteristics. I vote don't do it.
And no, the car doesn't oversteer like crazy or anything. Has never once stepped out on the street. You really have to TRY to make it oversteer.
For a daily driven car? Konis, Pedders, and the hardcore bar are pretty much unbeatable. You'll compromise your ride a bunch with all the crappy Cobalt coilover options (KW excluded, which uses Koni rears). The other coilover options limit the amount of droop and bump severly. Less available travel means those bumps are going to be even harsher. Combine that with the poor valving characteristics. I vote don't do it.
And no, the car doesn't oversteer like crazy or anything. Has never once stepped out on the street. You really have to TRY to make it oversteer.
thats your best bet then. cheaper too
Last edited by whyyoumadson?; Mar 6, 2011 at 04:51 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
The rear hardcore bar plus Konis will have a better positive impact than a set of coilovers. Sadly, almost all the coilovers offered for the Cobalt have pretty crappy valving. I was reminded of this as I rode around in a student's STI on track. Pedders are okay, but I don't like them as much as everyone else does.
For a daily driven car? Konis, Pedders, and the hardcore bar are pretty much unbeatable. You'll compromise your ride a bunch with all the crappy Cobalt coilover options (KW excluded, which uses Koni rears). The other coilover options limit the amount of droop and bump severly. Less available travel means those bumps are going to be even harsher. Combine that with the poor valving characteristics. I vote don't do it.
And no, the car doesn't oversteer like crazy or anything. Has never once stepped out on the street. You really have to TRY to make it oversteer.
For a daily driven car? Konis, Pedders, and the hardcore bar are pretty much unbeatable. You'll compromise your ride a bunch with all the crappy Cobalt coilover options (KW excluded, which uses Koni rears). The other coilover options limit the amount of droop and bump severly. Less available travel means those bumps are going to be even harsher. Combine that with the poor valving characteristics. I vote don't do it.
And no, the car doesn't oversteer like crazy or anything. Has never once stepped out on the street. You really have to TRY to make it oversteer.




