do bigger rotors require bigger calipers? anybody have any experience with a 11 inch rotor in the front compared to the stock 10 inch with stock calipers

 

mmm good question.

 

where are the bigger ones coming from

 

no they dont as long as they retain same width. but u will need a bracket to push the caliper back further to fit the larger rotor.

 

also they won't fit if you have 16" winter wheels. or ever want drag radials or slicks. my 16's BARELY clear the calipers as it is

 

even if you go with a larger disk the pad will still only make contact with the same ammount of disk so i dont see why you would....and thats not getting into the rotating mass issue

 

ebc rotors

 

I'll join the conversation as I can both answer your question to a degree and make you aware of a new option for the Cobalt.

The larger rotor can be installed as mentioned with the use of a caliper relocation bracket. They usually require quite a change however to fit the bolts to the brackets. 11" to 13" for example. You won't go up 1/2" very easily.

The benefit regardless of the width and the pad size is torque or leverage. Torquing your wheels to 90lbs with a 3/8 ratchet is still 90lbs. But if I give you a 1/2" breaker bar....you still get to 90lbs with less effort. The reverse is true here. You'll need less clamp force to stop the tire. Pad size has no impact on the torque, only how long it lasts.

On the flip side I'm going to make you aware of the BBK I've completed now for the HHR and will cross promote over here as well. In fact I'm also going to offer you the same intro/holiday price I've put on it in the HHR forums. If you're seriously considering a change then you won't do much better than this for value.

]

You'll note that I have also revised the listings to include a narrow rotor version to keep weight down and cost. These are the same parts used on many other kits for year such as SRT4, MINI, Contour SVT and others. For all but the most hard core track guy it's a very ample rotor mass and does not compromise wheel clearance as much as the 'bigger' kits do.

 

[QUOTE=Todd TCE;1731424]I'll join the conversation as I can both answer your question to a degree and make you aware of a new option for the Cobalt.

The larger rotor can be installed as mentioned with the use of a caliper relocation bracket. They usually require quite a change however to fit the bolts to the brackets. 11" to 13" for example. You won't go up 1/2" very easily.

The benefit regardless of the width and the pad size is torque or leverage. Torquing your wheels to 90lbs with a 3/8 ratchet is still 90lbs. But if I give you a 1/2" breaker bar....you still get to 90lbs with less effort. The reverse is true here. You'll need less clamp force to stop the tire. Pad size has no impact on the torque, only how long it lasts.

On the flip side I'm going to make you aware of the BBK I've completed now for the HHR and will cross promote over here as well. In fact I'm also going to offer you the same intro/holiday price I've put on it in the HHR forums. If you're seriously considering a change then you won't do much better than this for value.

REMOVED

You'll note that I have also revised the listings to include a narrow rotor version to keep weight down and cost. These are the same parts used on many other kits for year such as SRT4, MINI, Contour SVT and others. For all but the most hard core track guy it's a very ample rotor mass and does not compromise wheel clearance as much as the 'bigger' kits do.

All the details on the HHR (and to be HHR/Cobalt) can be found on the TCE web page. As well as greater info on the topics of brake torque, bias and rotor design etc.


can't sell if you're not a supporting vendor.

 

i am sorry but i removed your link.

per site rules.

No free advertisements - If you are the owner or employee of a company, don't mention it, or put links and phone numbers in posts or signatures. Only Supporting Vendors can use links and numbers in signatures and posts.
If you are developing a product, you may talk about it until you have it ready and/or you are taking orders for the product. At that point you must become a Supporting Vendor to be able to promote your products.

 

still havent address the fact that the pads wont be contacting anymore surface area using the stock calipers with a larger rotor

 

Sure they will- it's call swept area.
You're too hung up on pad size. Go back and re-read.

As for the links, I'm not surprised they're pulled. Jonel asked me to come in and introduce myself and what I do. And knows that it's business as I pay to be in HHR. And when he gets back to me later today the funds will be paid for the three months per all our pm's last night.

Once he gets the funds (I'm waiting on how he wants them) you can pop the links back in please?

 

your torque analogy still doesnt make sense the brakes work on friction the more area the more friction...i could put a 10 inch rotor that has 2 inches of contact area from hub outward so the pad is lets say 1 7/8 so if you jump up an inch in diameter you jump up 1/4-1/2 inch of contact area however the pad is still only 1 7/8 even if you move the pad further out on the disk you get more force from the disk[centripical] however the caliper is still putting out the same clamping force and the pads still have the same friction area so you end up with a dead space of contact area....also with a larger disk you have more mass to get moving and to stop[inertia] so how is jumping up in disk diameter going to increase brakeing performance

 

It works the exact way he is describing, through leverage. There are 3 factors that affect braking, 1- Stability 2-LEVERAGE 3- Friction. Now if you improve any one of the three you will improve the braking characteristics and performance of the vehicles brake system. It is the same as your stating in friction, well, if you just change pads to a more aggressive pad that may cause faster rotor wear, you have maintained the same contact patch of friction with a higher coefficient of friction. This applies with leverage, their is less pressure required from the brake pedal to reduce speed as the caliper is working with more leverage. Also with a larger diameter rotor you have more area for heat dissipation which improves braking.

 

but you also have to have the friction to stop a disk with more mass than previous even though your may be getting more leverage you can still only get so much friction and the inertia of a more massive disk with the same pads/calipers doesnt seem like the best solution

 

I simply don't have time to give a brake engineering seminar. I'm sorry. If you want more specific info you can go to my web page and pick up some pretty good data on what changes do to a torque value by using the ineractive bias calculator.

If none of the data I and others have supplied are good enough for now we'll have to let it go. Go back to the wheel torque analogy; try losening up your wheel lugs with a 6" wrench then a 12" one. The socket is the same size, the torque is the same value...which one makes you work harder?

Sometimes you just have to trust someone who's been building such things for 14yrs.
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I'd like to take a moment to bring back the removed links and such. (no problems, I understand why they were cut)

Here's what I've worked on for the HHR and will cross to your car.


In addtion I'm willing to offer Cobalt owners the same discount promo offer I put up on the HHR forums.

http://www.chevyhhr.net/forums/showthread.php?t=11897

I'll move from this thread later to a more specific one away from the discussion of rotors here.

 

so these will probably not clear 16's, right? i would assume winter wheels are out, drag radials and slicks are out of the question with these?

 

so its not just a replacement disk its a full kit with another caliper and everything

 

It's the whole enchilada guys; a complete BBK.

While it's for 17s, we could consider producing a smaller 12.2" version for 16s if there was a demand for it. I'd need to check some data on the fit but I suspect it would not be a problem.

Various other vehicles. Sorry it's not full at this time, I continue to add more customer pics as I have time.
http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o269/ToddTCE/

 

alright it seemed like you all were just talking about throwing a bigger disk into the stock hardware

 

wow that kit is nice Todd, if I had 1200 dollars id be all over that

 

The original discussion was on a larger rotor and relocation bracket. I took a side step on it and mentioned the new full kit. More info is posted in the vendor area. Pleas direct further questions there or in a new thread on BBKs and I'll be happy to answer any questions you have.

 

thank god somebody actually took the time to answer my question. this site is turning more ridiculous by the day...their is no ligit questions,answers, threads,posts,etc anymore. everybody is interested in t & a, and how gay these ebay rims are gonna look on there car.

 

The biggest question is, what do you want it for. In general, if you're going to make an improvement to the front brakes, you need to make an equivalent improvement to the rear brakes. If you don't then you stand a very good chance of screwing up the brake bias of the car. That doesn't mean front braking power has to = rear braking power, because that's not the way it is in stock form. Just if you're making a big improvement up front and expecting to use your newfound braking improvement for performance driving, you're going to end up in real bad shape.

 

i bet if you just put in some drilled and slotted rear rotors it would fix a lot of the brake bias problem from upgrading your fronts. I've heard that its better to have rears that are too weak than too strong. While racing though if your rears are too strong and they lock up it could spin you out in a turn. Like you said front braking shouldn't = rear braking.