Control arm bushing install question
#1
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Control arm bushing install question
Maven or someone how has installed the OTTP control arm bushings, is there a certain direction these must be press into the arm.. I see one side of the bushing is open and one is closed from how the inner joint is pressed in the aluminum ring. Any help is appretiated.
#2
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the upper ring on the cross axis ball joint goes to the top; I always press from the top down, (ball joint up) and use Loctite 638 bearing retainer smeared carefully around the outer circumference of the bushing, to take care of the striations left in the arm when you press the old bushing out. Press it in square leave a little of the bushing proud maybe a 1/16 th or so, the arm is not very true in its exterior dimension . Then install the arm. I did a set today they rock. Torque the big bolt to 145 ft lbs. have fun...
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148lb ft on the big bolt. 41 on the 2 on the frame and 37.5 first pass, loosen 3/4 turn then tighten to 37.5ftlb plus 30* on the final pass on the remaining nut and bolt.
#4
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We installed a set this weekend.
The owner of the car used a skill saw to cut the rubber out and I used a razor knife.
Very easy either way
If you stick a big screw driver in the bolt hole you can twist it out without any problem after cutting about half of it.
We took the blade out of a hack saw put it in the arm reattached the blade and cut the outside race of the bushing almost all the way.
After that you can take a punch and get the outer part removed.
We pressed them in with a vise and some 3/4" drive sockets.
When you put the control arm in a vice and a screw driver in the bolt hole and see how much you can move it around you can see how the new bearings are a big deal.
Now all we need are the front lower control bushings
The owner of the car used a skill saw to cut the rubber out and I used a razor knife.
Very easy either way
If you stick a big screw driver in the bolt hole you can twist it out without any problem after cutting about half of it.
We took the blade out of a hack saw put it in the arm reattached the blade and cut the outside race of the bushing almost all the way.
After that you can take a punch and get the outer part removed.
We pressed them in with a vise and some 3/4" drive sockets.
When you put the control arm in a vice and a screw driver in the bolt hole and see how much you can move it around you can see how the new bearings are a big deal.
Now all we need are the front lower control bushings
#6
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And the rear bushing is at the long end of the triangle.
May be having a one day test Monday at Watkins Glen to try them out along with the 1" rear bar if a few things work out.
Thanks for your input Maven
I need to get my son to set up a computer simulation program for these cars....................
The front would be a bit of a pain to press out/in because of the shape.
When the arms were out I did a little looking and found a couple of driver from a press in a body shop that look like they would work fine.
#7
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Yeah the fronts arent removable without damaging them. The race arms use a delrin sleeve AND a new bowtie.
Most of the fore/aft and in/out movement of the LCA is due to distortion of the rear bushing. Replacing it eliminates this distortion, leaving only the front one which has far less material to distort in the first place.
Most of the fore/aft and in/out movement of the LCA is due to distortion of the rear bushing. Replacing it eliminates this distortion, leaving only the front one which has far less material to distort in the first place.
#11
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I think Maven is right BUT the enemy of good handling mac strut cars is friction. THe enemy of the delrin (cheap) is the hardened steel bow tie axle joint (expensive) . Josh at OTTP is crying for these front ones, and I am working on a (cheaper) solution for next week.
Stittville Ed did it the hard way with a vise but it works and thats legit good one. Cutting out the bushing is a pita takes an hour where the press takes 30 seconds but thats life.
Ed I can (Maybe) bring a set of delrin down with me to the glen, an outside chance but you aint using no hack saw blade to get the stock bushing out it is seriously in there and you cant burn it out as it would hurt the arm so....$ and use a press or nothing.
Or listen to Maven. Or be totally wacked like me I got em. But I also got single pass and I had to change it out today as I tested a new model and it screwed up.
On the bottom line? I can not show you a lap time improvement with the leading bushing in delrin. I can show you 2 seconds a lap with the trailing bushing. AND waaaaay longer tire life.
that is all...good work btw Ed...
Stittville Ed did it the hard way with a vise but it works and thats legit good one. Cutting out the bushing is a pita takes an hour where the press takes 30 seconds but thats life.
Ed I can (Maybe) bring a set of delrin down with me to the glen, an outside chance but you aint using no hack saw blade to get the stock bushing out it is seriously in there and you cant burn it out as it would hurt the arm so....$ and use a press or nothing.
Or listen to Maven. Or be totally wacked like me I got em. But I also got single pass and I had to change it out today as I tested a new model and it screwed up.
On the bottom line? I can not show you a lap time improvement with the leading bushing in delrin. I can show you 2 seconds a lap with the trailing bushing. AND waaaaay longer tire life.
that is all...good work btw Ed...
#12
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I think Maven is right BUT the enemy of good handling mac strut cars is friction. THe enemy of the delrin (cheap) is the hardened steel bow tie axle joint (expensive) . Josh at OTTP is crying for these front ones, and I am working on a (cheaper) solution for next week.
Stittville Ed did it the hard way with a vise but it works and thats legit good one. Cutting out the bushing is a pita takes an hour where the press takes 30 seconds but thats life.
Ed I can (Maybe) bring a set of delrin down with me to the glen, an outside chance but you aint using no hack saw blade to get the stock bushing out it is seriously in there and you cant burn it out as it would hurt the arm so....$ and use a press or nothing.
Or listen to Maven. Or be totally wacked like me I got em. But I also got single pass and I had to change it out today as I tested a new model and it screwed up.
On the bottom line? I can not show you a lap time improvement with the leading bushing in delrin. I can show you 2 seconds a lap with the trailing bushing. AND waaaaay longer tire life.
you are right he stock front end seems to be hard on tires at the track at speed, OK for the street but.......
that is all...good work btw Ed...
Stittville Ed did it the hard way with a vise but it works and thats legit good one. Cutting out the bushing is a pita takes an hour where the press takes 30 seconds but thats life.
Ed I can (Maybe) bring a set of delrin down with me to the glen, an outside chance but you aint using no hack saw blade to get the stock bushing out it is seriously in there and you cant burn it out as it would hurt the arm so....$ and use a press or nothing.
Or listen to Maven. Or be totally wacked like me I got em. But I also got single pass and I had to change it out today as I tested a new model and it screwed up.
On the bottom line? I can not show you a lap time improvement with the leading bushing in delrin. I can show you 2 seconds a lap with the trailing bushing. AND waaaaay longer tire life.
you are right he stock front end seems to be hard on tires at the track at speed, OK for the street but.......
that is all...good work btw Ed...
Your right about the bow tie being the problem.
The are sooooooooooo hard
Didn't take very long with a new blade in the razor knife.
You just have to put a screw driver in the center and twist it around
Kent will be trying to make it to the Glen, I think.
I can't make it my daughter will be in from Chicago but we will meet up some time I'm sure.
I have a plan on how to press them out and back in at a body shop I go to.
It's a long story we all draged raced long ago.
I think I got into the Wacked Club a long time ago
You are right he stock front end seems to be hard on tires at the track at speed, OK for the street but.......
Thanks
Just trying ot show people that you can do some of these projects on your own
#13
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Your right about the bow tie being the problem.
The are sooooooooooo hard
Didn't take very long with a new blade in the razor knife.
You just have to put a screw driver in the center and twist it around
Kent will be trying to make it to the Glen, I think.
I can't make it my daughter will be in from Chicago but we will meet up some time I'm sure.
I have a plan on how to press them out and back in at a body shop I go to.
It's a long story we all draged raced long ago.
I think I got into the Wacked Club a long time ago
You are right he stock front end seems to be hard on tires at the track at speed, OK for the street but.......
Thanks
Just trying ot show people that you can do some of these projects on your own
The are sooooooooooo hard
Didn't take very long with a new blade in the razor knife.
You just have to put a screw driver in the center and twist it around
Kent will be trying to make it to the Glen, I think.
I can't make it my daughter will be in from Chicago but we will meet up some time I'm sure.
I have a plan on how to press them out and back in at a body shop I go to.
It's a long story we all draged raced long ago.
I think I got into the Wacked Club a long time ago
You are right he stock front end seems to be hard on tires at the track at speed, OK for the street but.......
Thanks
Just trying ot show people that you can do some of these projects on your own
#14
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Stupid people like me can press them out the trick is getting them back in, as you well know.
#17
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the press fit is possible in a vise with effort but youneed to press them in straight no doubt. The interference fit is carefully calculated and the part needs to be installed correctly. contact stittville ed for some DIY tips
#19
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go to a machine shop and ask them to press them in for you, use loctite green 638 to assemble with , a good shop will charge you 20 30 bucks i am sure but it will be worth it. i install them all day long no problem. want me to do set of arms exchange? pm me or lsjwannabe...
#20
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i think its finally startin to go in but its gonna be hard cuz the stockers are fucked up and wont go back in. im tryin one last time for tonite
so would u send me a set of new arms with the upgraded set of bushings? i would need them asap as my car is on jacks in front of my buddies house
so would u send me a set of new arms with the upgraded set of bushings? i would need them asap as my car is on jacks in front of my buddies house
Last edited by drew1991sf; 08-19-2009 at 12:54 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
#21
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I'll take the F on this one
#22
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thing is, if I had a car and a part like that I would go find a machine shop and get it done by a professional for like 20 bucks. save some heartache. Or find a pro who would help with his time for free. To press out the old bushing a steel sleeve 59 mm in o.d works and to install a steel sleeve 66 mm works. The sleeve has to be at least 10 mm wall thickness. Carry on
#23
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so i have to shave it down??? my friend is a mechanic but we were doing it at his house which has alot of stuff just not a press.
if i cant get them in i may take u up on that offer qwik. but i would need it shipped next day air
if i cant get them in i may take u up on that offer qwik. but i would need it shipped next day air
#24
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you shave NOTHING DOWN ON THE BUSHING. I have given you the size of the sleeves you need to press out the old bushings and turn it over to press in the new cab. DO NOT CUT THE OTT CAB The interference press fit is calculated and machined very carefully. Your mechanic friend can press them in with a vise and a sleeve....we did. A press is easier/better.
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ok i didnt shave it at all dont worry lol.
and we tried a vice for like 3hrs but we just couldnt get it all the way in its only got like a 1/4 more to go in. but one of our friends is gonna use a press at his work for it and on the other arm.
gettin it out wasnt that hard in is a bitch
and we tried a vice for like 3hrs but we just couldnt get it all the way in its only got like a 1/4 more to go in. but one of our friends is gonna use a press at his work for it and on the other arm.
gettin it out wasnt that hard in is a bitch