End-links Q & Bushing Re-clocking
07-13-2016, 03:54 PM
#1
End-links Q & Bushing Re-clocking
Howdy Howdy,
2 questions -
1.) When installing the end links, should it be done while all four wheels are level/on the ground? Everything I've found (outside of this forum) indicates that in order to "properly" install end links, it should be done with the suspension loaded.
2.) Has anyone taken the time to re-clock suspension bushings on all pivot points (not many from what I can see) after lowering their car?
After doing a complete suspension overhaul, outside of replacing the twist beam bushings, the car just doesn't feel right - Pulls to the right and the car feels floaty. I'm going to replace the twist beam bushings because I can clearly see that they're worn pretty good and it's evident in my alignment print out (toe bias on the drivers side rear but still "within spec"
). I'm going to try attaching the end links to the sway bar with the suspension being loaded and replace the twist beam bushings to see if it helps.
I also suspect that the pulling situation could possibly be a combination of the end links, bushings and bad wheel bearings up front as I'm getting random ESC failure notifications on the DIC.
2 questions -
1.) When installing the end links, should it be done while all four wheels are level/on the ground? Everything I've found (outside of this forum) indicates that in order to "properly" install end links, it should be done with the suspension loaded.
2.) Has anyone taken the time to re-clock suspension bushings on all pivot points (not many from what I can see) after lowering their car?
After doing a complete suspension overhaul, outside of replacing the twist beam bushings, the car just doesn't feel right - Pulls to the right and the car feels floaty. I'm going to replace the twist beam bushings because I can clearly see that they're worn pretty good and it's evident in my alignment print out (toe bias on the drivers side rear but still "within spec"
). I'm going to try attaching the end links to the sway bar with the suspension being loaded and replace the twist beam bushings to see if it helps.I also suspect that the pulling situation could possibly be a combination of the end links, bushings and bad wheel bearings up front as I'm getting random ESC failure notifications on the DIC.
07-13-2016, 05:20 PM
#2
The end links have ball joints at the ends, so they will rotate to a rest position, unlike a rubber bushing. No reason to have them preloaded.
If you diagnose your ESC fault you might save yourself some effort, as that will cause all of your issues. If there's a worn wheel bearing or faulty speed sensor causing false stability control intervention, you're wasting effort changing bushings. Fix the faulty parts first, then do the maintenance items.
If you diagnose your ESC fault you might save yourself some effort, as that will cause all of your issues. If there's a worn wheel bearing or faulty speed sensor causing false stability control intervention, you're wasting effort changing bushings. Fix the faulty parts first, then do the maintenance items.
The following users liked this post:
T-Man (07-13-2016)
07-13-2016, 06:14 PM
#3
The end links have ball joints at the ends, so they will rotate to a rest position, unlike a rubber bushing. No reason to have them preloaded.
If you diagnose your ESC fault you might save yourself some effort, as that will cause all of your issues. If there's a worn wheel bearing or faulty speed sensor causing false stability control intervention, you're wasting effort changing bushings. Fix the faulty parts first, then do the maintenance items.
If you diagnose your ESC fault you might save yourself some effort, as that will cause all of your issues. If there's a worn wheel bearing or faulty speed sensor causing false stability control intervention, you're wasting effort changing bushings. Fix the faulty parts first, then do the maintenance items.
I wished HPT could pull BCM codes...
Thanks for chiming in ItalianJoe!
Edit - After doing further research, it looks like it's 99.99999% a failing wheel bearing. Going to find someone who can scan BCM codes and go from there.
Last edited by T-Man; 07-13-2016 at 06:27 PM.
07-13-2016, 08:27 PM
#4
True, that is odd. Most small scanners now can pull abs codes, but usually for wheel bearings you can lift the car and spin the wheels by hand and feel the roughness/vibration very easily. Put your hand on the spring and turn the tire, it's usually pretty apparent if they are getting bad.
The following users liked this post:
T-Man (07-13-2016)
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