Fe5 / Koni Question
Happy New Year, CSS Family!
My daily driven 2007 LS Coupe needs new struts. I'm lowered on Tenzo R lowering springs. What do you suggest (other than coilovers)?
(1) Koni Front and Rear
(2) Fe5 Front, Koni Rear
(3) Other: __________
What is the advantage of Fe5 up front and Koni in the rear THAN going Koni all the way around?
Thanks in advance!
My daily driven 2007 LS Coupe needs new struts. I'm lowered on Tenzo R lowering springs. What do you suggest (other than coilovers)?
(1) Koni Front and Rear
(2) Fe5 Front, Koni Rear
(3) Other: __________
What is the advantage of Fe5 up front and Koni in the rear THAN going Koni all the way around?
Thanks in advance!
Koni doesn't have a true front for our cars, it's just an insert. That's the only reason people don't do them. If you're not doing any sort of racing, the FE5 all around will be just fine.
If you have an aftermarket rear swaybar, the FE5 rear shocks are underdamped. Frankly, I prefer more rebound for the front as well, which is why I'm running Konis all the way around, with the XXX bar. Even with the hardcore bar, the rear way too underdamped.
A spring will oscillate freely on its own, ie boioioioioioioing. Shocks are there to control the springs motion, not so much to add to the spring rate. Underdamped means that the spring would compress then extend over and over again, the shock is too soft to make it a perfect compress then extend to normal. An underdamped car feels bouncy and causes tire load and slip angles to vary too much.
Overdamped would mean the shock is too stiff and doesn't allow the spring to compress or extend as far as it normally would. This would make a car hop over bumps, and a tire not touching the road can't grip it
Overdamped would mean the shock is too stiff and doesn't allow the spring to compress or extend as far as it normally would. This would make a car hop over bumps, and a tire not touching the road can't grip it
A spring will oscillate freely on its own, ie boioioioioioioing. Shocks are there to control the springs motion, not so much to add to the spring rate. Underdamped means that the spring would compress then extend over and over again, the shock is too soft to make it a perfect compress then extend to normal. An underdamped car feels bouncy and causes tire load and slip angles to vary too much.
Overdamped would mean the shock is too stiff and doesn't allow the spring to compress or extend as far as it normally would. This would make a car hop over bumps, and a tire not touching the road can't grip it
Overdamped would mean the shock is too stiff and doesn't allow the spring to compress or extend as far as it normally would. This would make a car hop over bumps, and a tire not touching the road can't grip it
One thumb for getting dampen v damp correct (Fry Loch failed), and another for knowing what's up.
It is possible to overdamp the rebound with Konis if you turn them up too high. Less is more. They really only need somewhere between 1/4 to 1/2 turn off full soft, depending on your setup and the road conditions.
One thumb for getting dampen v damp correct (Fry Loch failed), and another for knowing what's up.
It is possible to overdamp the rebound with Konis if you turn them up too high. Less is more. They really only need somewhere between 1/4 to 1/2 turn off full soft, depending on your setup and the road conditions.
I have the fronts around 1/4 off full soft for daily driving. Up to 1/2 off full soft for track. The rears are set about 1/2 turn off full soft, I think. I may have them a little bit under that, closer to 3/8. There is a big difference between 3/4 and 3/8 off full soft in the rear. Like WAAAAY too much rebound, even though I have Pedders and the XXX bar. Most people should stick with 1/4 off full soft in the rear.
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