Linky I was wondering if this(or something similar) would be worth $50 to try out. I strongly doubt our unibody is overly stiff and I have seen people with custom underbracing but I am already low enough as it is so what are everyone's opinions?

 

hey can u just answer my last questions in my thread u were helping me out with lol thanks

 

Looks like this is a "Universal" part. I'd contact the seller about fitment before bidding.

 

i cant say ive honestly seen this in other cars. im sure it does something though.

 

Also it looks like it will take some minor fabrication to install. Ripping out interior panels and drilling n' ****. Doesnt seem like it would help a whole lot for what a pain in the ass it would be to install. Not something I would want to do but hey its your car.

 

Waste of money...

 

Install wouldnt be hard for me, a good portion of my interior is already out. I am not really saying that specific floor brace I am asking if anyone knows if the cobalt chassis is stiff enough to not need it.

 

You don't need it. Contact Maven or John Powell (QwikRedline or something like that) for advice on susp setup for this car. John Powell designed the Time Attack Cobalt that set a bunch of records and races his personal redline like there's no tomorrow. AFAIK, he doesn't even run something like this. Take a look at OTTP's site for the Hardcore rear bar and Pedders springs. They'll also recommend running the LNF FE5 struts/shocks along with the Pedders springs. Top that off with steering rack spacers, FE5 control arms with spherical bushings and powergrid end links. That setup alone with the right tires will outrun a new SS.

 

Waste of time and money.

 

NO.... complete waste of mooooolah!

 

yeah like i said im sure it does something but that something probablly isnt even enough to say its worth the purchase. and if you have to do fab work its not worth it.

 

F'n awsome... i made someones sig!

 

edubs and 1badfruit etc said it right. low mounted cross car beams at the B pillar work in caged cars; this one is alloy, not straight at all so a cosmetic addition at best. Cheap and a pita to install...etc

 

listen here ass! Why you gotta **** with me all the time!

 

Thank you for all the info but I already am planning a FE5 front anti-roll bar, FE5 LCA's with OTTP sphericals, TeIn coilovers(if they ever come out with a track set, and yes I capitalized the I for a reason, not to make myself look stupid), OTTP hardcore bar, OTTP steering rack spacers, and BWoody adjustable endlinks. Time and money are the only things holding me back. I was just wondering if an interior brace would be worth it to add to my future setup.

What fab work? a few holds drilled and some bolts?
Great comment on blueberry. Anyways, like the post says, I wasnt refering to this specific bar, I was gonna go down to my local recycler and see if I could get any 1-1/2 tubing and some 1/4" plate and I was going to weld my own. Since your reputation preceeds you I will take your word that I would be wasting my time. Though I would like to know since you said it is curved it wouldnt be worth it would a straight bar be better(elivate the mounting points)? What about one that would be just below the B pillars or one that would be at shoulder level on the B pillars(which would be good for harnesses too)?

 

If you stop and think about this for a sec, you'll realize that the purpose of this bar is (theoretically) to reduce lateral flexing. If it's laying one floor (nearly), there won't be much flex, since the pillar is secure to floorboard already. A location higher up on the pillar would be at least a better candidate, but it will get in the way more as well. Not sure if was rice or there's a benefit to it, but I have seen Civics with one up by seat belt anchors. Leaning towards rice myself)

CN: It's likely not needed, but that location is definitely not going to help much. A better location (like seat belt anchor area) will obstruct the seat movement and rear seat access.

 

ya rear harness bar and while it will certainly add some bracing that is positive, its main function is to hold the belts. If the car crashed and it worked it could bend forward or pull the B pillars with it. Pretty extreme and not worth think about as with thos forces you the driver would not be looking so good...

The real win for me owning a tuperware with NO B pillar is the U-Race-IT under car beams that provides a good undercar stiffener, so really well worth it on Redline, not so much on Cobalt but still a + .

I am thinking of making a brushed stainless (looks) roll over hoop that would tie into the under car beam, with a cross bar for 5 point racing belts. BUT how to put rear facing struts to support it as I have no B pillar, without making my car useless as a daily driver for back seat passengers (rare, but happens) ????

No easy answer. For a Cobalt #1 a harness bar (for belts if you are tracking) #2 under car beam 250 bucks in chromalloy a great buy and #3 if you need more forget it as a daily driver

Or this:

 

no one makes a harness bar that im aware of. someone needs to be around me that will build me a nice road race cage.i have a fantastic drag cage builder but he doesnt have time to mess with specs and such on a road race cage.

 

Well although currently my back seats are in I plan on having a semi race car interior... I say semi because I am going to rip out everything eccept the dash, center console, carpet(although will be cut behind the front seats), rocker panels, door panels, glove box, stock stereo(might remove rear speakers, havent decided on that yet), and obviously pedals, guages, and shifter would stay. All interior panels will be removed eccept what was mentioned previous, headliner(might keep int light since it will be a DD). I plan on puting a roll bar with harness bar, and door bars in with rear struts and a cross bar in that. I am getting most of my inspiration from my friend Sam. He has a Ford Taurus SHO fully gutted with a 8 pt cage... and by fully gutted as in his interior consists of guages, shifter, pedals, 1 Corbau racing seat, cage, door lock assemblies(only front 2 are able to be open from the outside) fire extinguisher, and wiring harness. He even removed the heater core and windows(replaced with lexan). To open his rear doors, hood and trunk you have to pull wires in his grille, under the rear bumper, and just behind the front doors on the B pillars.

 

If you plan on puting in a cage dont bother wasting your time with a floor brace at all. If you decide not to go with the cage get in touch with Universal Race Cars (In MD iirc) and get a set of their under car braces, these are what Qwik was talkinga bout. They are like $275 now, but they are one of the only chassis stiffeners on the market that do anything at all. Weld them in if you can.

 

i recently saw someone selling a b pillar bar out of a bimmer that bolted into the belt swivel points i think, would that be a worthy investment? and i cant find anywhere that sells the under floor braces(??) anymore, i heard good things about them before and they might be worth it if they work but i cant find them, or is that what you were talking about maven?

 

^^^ I believe that is what he was refering to.