ok guys so i know this has been covered prolly a million times but i need to know.what is the best rotor/brake combo to get rid of the brake pulsations?ive read alot of you dont like driled and slotted and alot of you guys are partial to either just slotted or blanks.but my other question is are the r1 blanks stronger than the stock gm rotors?i know you guys have said the first step to getting rid of that pulsation is new rotors and pads just having a hard time figuring out what to get.any help would be great.

 

id just grab some slotted rotors..the pulsations are probly cause the ones you have new are warped. drilled tends to crack alllll the time

 

blanks is probably your best bet. not sure what kind of car you have, but the hawk hps pads on brand new OEM blanks did wonders for me. i think drilled n slotted are more for aesthetics than anything.

 

Gm stockers are better than R1 blanks or variations there of.

 

i have an 06 ss/sc.but ive heard part of the reason for the pulsation was the cheap gm rotors in the first place?but i could be wrong here?

 

Yeah, don't get the original rotors, they warp badly all the time. I got the GMPP drilled slotted rotors and had them cryoed, went through about 3 sets of pads and the rotors were perfect. They were a little expensive at first but they were well worth it.

Any decent aftermarket rotor will work out better than the stockers, they just overheat and warp too easily, and if they've been cut it gets even worse.

 

Tc blanks are best option! Proven time after time

 

tc blanks?

 

But rotors dont warp, they get un even pad buildup from improper break in procedures.

 

That is also true. Uneven pad wear may cause brake shudder, which feels like warping. A typical break-in procedure can help resolve this problem with the pads.

However, in general rotors can warp over time, due to excessive heat spots or just a plain bad rotor. Three main reasons to replace a rotor is: If rotors are warp, replace them, if they are under the minimum thickness, replace them (min. thickness should be located at the outer edge of each rotor). If they are scored badly (deep grove linings on the surface of the rotors), this will cause grinding noise when braking and it's not because your pads are hitting the indicator, replace them.

-Steven

 

Holy crap, a company rep from a brake company that actually knows something.

Yeah I wanted to leave out the part about rotors being able to warp from hotspots because it theoretically doesnt happen much because of the alloy that rotors are typically made of, combine with the thickness of the rotors, they're very hard to warp. Although some companies recently have been skimping on some nickle in their rotor alloy, which makes them easier to warp. And said companies may or may not be from the small cluster of companies which sell rotors to all major parts stores.

 

Thanks for the chime in, and great info.

 

yea thanks for all the input guys helped alot.so do you all think ill be ok with new rotors/pads and an alignment?