koni front strut inserts
04-26-2012, 12:08 AM
#1
koni front strut inserts
just got these bad boys put on today and wow what a diff already. still need to adjust them and throw in the rears but ran out of time. does anyone know what the konis are set to when shipped (front and rear)?
04-26-2012, 12:33 AM
#5
ok so for the rears i have a **** ton of weight.... i don't want it bouncy but i dont want it to bottom out all the time should i leave it at 0 then too? i might soften the fronts idk
04-26-2012, 01:39 AM
#8
Rebound Adjustment Procedures
Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle and hold it vertically with the lower eye or pin attached in a vise. Use clamp plates to prevent damage.
Fully collapse the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (counterclockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjustment nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly.
Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and it must be removed prior to adjusting.
The damper may have already been adjusted. Therefore check whether the shock absorber is in the adjustment position or not by keeping it collapsed and gently turning it further to the left counting at the same time the half turns until a stop is felt. Stop turning then and do not use force.
Keeping the shock absorber collapsed, make 1 half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise). In case of prior adjustment add the number of half the turns previously found. The total range is about 5 half turns.
Pull the shock absorber out vertically without turning for at least 1 cm to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.
ADJUSTING DIRECTION
Clockwise = Firmer
Counter Clockwise = Softer
Remove the shock absorber from the vehicle and hold it vertically with the lower eye or pin attached in a vise. Use clamp plates to prevent damage.
Fully collapse the shock absorber, at the same time turning the dust cap or piston rod slowly to the left (counterclockwise), until it is felt that the cams of the adjustment nut engage in the recesses of the foot valve assembly.
Some shock absorbers include a bump rubber concealed under the dust cover and it must be removed prior to adjusting.
The damper may have already been adjusted. Therefore check whether the shock absorber is in the adjustment position or not by keeping it collapsed and gently turning it further to the left counting at the same time the half turns until a stop is felt. Stop turning then and do not use force.
Keeping the shock absorber collapsed, make 1 half turn (180 degrees) to the right (clockwise). In case of prior adjustment add the number of half the turns previously found. The total range is about 5 half turns.
Pull the shock absorber out vertically without turning for at least 1 cm to disengage the adjusting mechanism. The dust cap or piston rod may now be turned freely.
ADJUSTING DIRECTION
Clockwise = Firmer
Counter Clockwise = Softer
04-26-2012, 02:34 AM
#11
Makes me want a set again, I had some on my 2.2 but now I just have pedders and FE5s on the SS/TC. Still have a pair of rear konis sitting in my garage taking up space lol
In response to OP you should be fine setting it to 0, keep in mind that if you make the rear firmer than the front there is a chance of inducing accidental oversteer so you should adjust accordingly and figure out exactly where you want it to be. 0 is firmer than FE5 stock I believe.
In response to OP you should be fine setting it to 0, keep in mind that if you make the rear firmer than the front there is a chance of inducing accidental oversteer so you should adjust accordingly and figure out exactly where you want it to be. 0 is firmer than FE5 stock I believe.
04-26-2012, 09:18 AM
#13
Super Moderator
Platinum Member
iTrader: (16)
FINALLY someone else whos doing a full set. Told you youd be happy 
its a night and day difference. Rears are literally a 10 minute job from jacking up to doing to jacking down.
its a night and day difference. Rears are literally a 10 minute job from jacking up to doing to jacking down.
04-27-2012, 02:29 AM
#16
Makes me want a set again, I had some on my 2.2 but now I just have pedders and FE5s on the SS/TC. Still have a pair of rear konis sitting in my garage taking up space lol
In response to OP you should be fine setting it to 0, keep in mind that if you make the rear firmer than the front there is a chance of inducing accidental oversteer so you should adjust accordingly and figure out exactly where you want it to be. 0 is firmer than FE5 stock I believe.
In response to OP you should be fine setting it to 0, keep in mind that if you make the rear firmer than the front there is a chance of inducing accidental oversteer so you should adjust accordingly and figure out exactly where you want it to be. 0 is firmer than FE5 stock I believe.
04-27-2012, 02:09 PM
#17
if anything im thinking about full soft idk thou, i think id be happy with a slightly softer then fe5. when i first put on my springs on the at the time new shocks/struts i was happy as can be with that setup but im thinking now a little softer would be where im looking at. i mean pre koni my ride, body roll, braking everything is sorta ****. ive noticed an improvement on all 3 with just the fronts and after today im pretty sure the 2 fronts are set differently. rears the main issue thou bc the weight
that must ride jacked up.
05-17-2012, 12:15 AM
#24
i like it. on the h&r's its too low for anything but honestly. i mean i havent tried anything in the middle as far as on the rears but messing with the fronts 1/4 turn from full soft had increased handling but it wasnt worth the ride quality diff IMO. im not too crazy of a driver anymore and the car does what i need it to on full soft anyway so
