Long brake after new calipers, pads and rotors
hey guys! BlackJack here!
Wondering if anyone could give me some insight as to why my brakes feel spongy and seem to have a low engagement when i press the brake pedal.
I recently, during a service, found out that my calipers were starting to seize, due to having boot tears and driving it year round. i did full brakes and calipers myself, using my dad to help me bleed them.
I did the routine, pumping up the new calipers with fluid while cracking the bleeders. i did this about six times for each front caliper, and 8 times for the rears due to the longer brake lines.'
yet, the system still feels a little spongy and sinks a bit before engaging the brakes.
hopefully someone can give me a hand on this situation!
Thanks!
Wondering if anyone could give me some insight as to why my brakes feel spongy and seem to have a low engagement when i press the brake pedal.
I recently, during a service, found out that my calipers were starting to seize, due to having boot tears and driving it year round. i did full brakes and calipers myself, using my dad to help me bleed them.
I did the routine, pumping up the new calipers with fluid while cracking the bleeders. i did this about six times for each front caliper, and 8 times for the rears due to the longer brake lines.'
yet, the system still feels a little spongy and sinks a bit before engaging the brakes.
hopefully someone can give me a hand on this situation!
Thanks!
I know it's probably dumb to ask. But did you start pressing the pedal, have the other guy open the valve, and then close the valve as the pedal reaches it end? Releasing the pedal before closing the bleeder valve will add air through the valve. At least that's what my old man always taught me.
Also we're the calipers new or did you rebuild them?
Also we're the calipers new or did you rebuild them?
i was the one on the end of the bleeders, i made sure to have him hold it completely down until i gave an audible cue to release and build more pressure. maybe that's how they are expected to feel. hopefully one of the more experienced guys on here could give me a hand.
thanks for the input though!
thanks for the input though!
Joined: 12-23-09
Posts: 12,643
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From: Mt. Pleasant S.C.
I thought it was just me.
I was thinking that maybe I need to bleed the abs box, but that needs a tech2 to do, if I remember right. Annoying, I know that much.
I was thinking that maybe I need to bleed the abs box, but that needs a tech2 to do, if I remember right. Annoying, I know that much.
check rear pad piston is set correctly. And bleed using a bleed bottle. its so simple done right.
pump it up/hold it down/release bleeder and tighten/relax. repeat.
ps pumper inside car says as he or she pumps the pedal: "down" then repeats until you tell he she to relax. do not open bleeder if pedal is not depressed all the way to the floor and stay that way into the bleeder is closed.
RR/LF/LR/RF
pump it up/hold it down/release bleeder and tighten/relax. repeat.
ps pumper inside car says as he or she pumps the pedal: "down" then repeats until you tell he she to relax. do not open bleeder if pedal is not depressed all the way to the floor and stay that way into the bleeder is closed.
RR/LF/LR/RF
Last edited by Powell Race Parts; Jun 25, 2013 at 11:11 PM.
pedal feeling came back, the ceramipads that i got needed a little breaking in for the first 100Km so it's all good.
does the order matter? i went in the ways of closest to the master. namely LF/RF/LR/RR
does the order matter? i went in the ways of closest to the master. namely LF/RF/LR/RR
On this car yes its plumbed in a cross patern so the order Powell said is furthest to closest and correct
Now that you say that I definitely remember my last set of ceramics feeling the same way.
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