Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

New Front pads and rotors needed

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Old 10-10-2008, 11:15 AM
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New Front pads and rotors needed

im looking for the lowest cost rotors out there, where can I find them

I have a 07 SS my front brakes are shot i just need to replace the stuff to get by inspection but rotors seem to a fortune almost everywhere i look
Old 10-10-2008, 11:19 AM
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What kind of driving do you do to "eat up" brakes on a 1-year old car?

Brake pads are not that expensive...do you need to replace the rotors too?
Old 10-10-2008, 11:19 AM
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let me say this, rotors and brakes are the LAST thing you want to cheap out on bro. there's plenty of things you can skimp on, but the ability to stop should not be one of them.

you can check tirerack.com they have super fast shipping and a bunch of options, and some of the vendors here have them. not sure what you consider expensive or cheap though.
Old 10-10-2008, 11:20 AM
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I don't know if it would be a good idea to cheap out on brakes...
Old 10-10-2008, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by Red07SSNA
What kind of driving do you do to "eat up" brakes on a 1-year old car?

Brake pads are not that expensive...do you need to replace the rotors too?
you should ALWAYS either replace the rotors or have them re-finished when you put on new pads.
Old 10-10-2008, 11:23 AM
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http://www.r1concepts.com/ $50 for a pair of OEQ E-line front rotors.
Old 10-10-2008, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by D4u2s0t
you should ALWAYS either replace the rotors or have them re-finished when you put on new pads.
Calm Down D4u2s0t, I asked a question, he did not say if the rotors were bad yet!!!!
Old 10-10-2008, 11:27 AM
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Pardon me. 55 for rear OEQ rotors and 73 for front rotors.

http://store.r1concepts.com/store/se...&submit=Search
Old 10-10-2008, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Red07SSNA
Calm Down D4u2s0t, I asked a question, he did not say if the rotors were bad yet!!!!
i wasn't being a dick or anything dude

the point was that anytime you change your pads, you have to get new rotors, or if the stock ones are ok you can get them grinded. the stock rotors suck, and warp real easy, so if you're getting aftermarket pads it's a good investment to get the rotors as well. the cheapest pads out there will be worse than stock, so it probably won't be an issue. but if you get real pads, the stock rotors are just too soft to not warp very quickly, and once the rotors warp you have to buy new pads again when you get the rotors.

moral of the story is it will be cheaper in the long run to just get quality stuff.
Old 10-10-2008, 11:33 AM
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The car is 2 years old next month and I have 30,000 miles on it of "spirited" driving

I'm just looking for possibly a nice slotted or even cross drilled rotor , im going to go with the green stuff pads I got those picked out.
Old 10-10-2008, 11:38 AM
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I have the Uneek rotors and posiquiet pads on my car

No complaints so far and they have been on the car for a year now
Old 10-10-2008, 11:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Rodimus_Prime
The car is 2 years old next month and I have 30,000 miles on it of "spirited" driving

I'm just looking for possibly a nice slotted or even cross drilled rotor , im going to go with the green stuff pads I got those picked out.
the brembo blanks are a great rotor, and they're fairly cheap as well. i have the ebc rotors with hawk hps pads, a little more expensive but well worth it. i had the green stuff before the hawks, and i was pretty happy with them.
Old 10-10-2008, 03:25 PM
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Check out R1Concepts.com what I run front and back and awesome price. No problems yet, I've had them for almost 2 years.
Old 10-10-2008, 04:13 PM
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Originally Posted by D4u2s0t

the point was that anytime you change your pads, you have to get new rotors, or if the stock ones are ok you can get them grinded..... and once the rotors warp you have to buy new pads again when you get the rotors.
The only time you HAVE to get new rotors or resurface them is if you change brake pad compounds, if the braking surface is heavily corroede or if youve got grooving in excess of .050" If your rotors are within specs, "look" good, and dont have grooves over .050" deep you dont "need" to repalce or surface them if you are replacing the pads with the same part.

You also dont need to replace pads just because you replace or resurface your rotors, if the pads are worn evenly across the face(not wearing on an angle), and dont have any visible damage you can safely just lightly sand the surface to break down to fresh friction material(just take the "shine" off) clean them off, lube 'em up and install with your fresh/freshly cut rotors.
Old 10-10-2008, 04:19 PM
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yea i was looking at those pretty cool stuff, whats a good pad for cross drilled and slotted?
Old 10-10-2008, 04:29 PM
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Greenstuffs are great. I have used them w/ slot-drilled rotors, but not on the balt. I am currently using ebay drilled rotors and Redstuffs. I don't recomend redstuffs for daily driving.
Old 10-10-2008, 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Maven
The only time you HAVE to get new rotors or resurface them is if you change brake pad compounds, if the braking surface is heavily corroede or if youve got grooving in excess of .050" If your rotors are within specs, "look" good, and dont have grooves over .050" deep you dont "need" to repalce or surface them if you are replacing the pads with the same part.

You also dont need to replace pads just because you replace or resurface your rotors, if the pads are worn evenly across the face(not wearing on an angle), and dont have any visible damage you can safely just lightly sand the surface to break down to fresh friction material(just take the "shine" off) clean them off, lube 'em up and install with your fresh/freshly cut rotors.
Now you've done it....D4u2s0t is going to start up another thread about the dynamics of rotor replacement and the harmonics associated with using used rotors and new pads
Old 10-10-2008, 04:56 PM
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yea im thinking these r1 rotors and greenstuff?
Old 10-10-2008, 05:15 PM
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I was going to get my rotors cut and had order the Hawk HPS pads.... when I got to Pep Boys they said my rotors were rusting from the inside out, we said he could cut them but the rust would come back... I got new rotors from Pep Boys on the spot... they were like $10 more (each) than cuttung them.... I Auto-Xed with them with out a problem... I am surprised they work as good as the stock rotor
Old 10-10-2008, 06:21 PM
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eh well i dont know if the green stuff is the best, but what are all these different hawk pads
Old 10-10-2008, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by JohnnySasakiMGS
http://www.r1concepts.com/ $50 for a pair of OEQ E-line front rotors.
don't buy from there. We got brakes and rotors for my brothers trans am there. The holes were drilled out too large for the wheel studs. theres a good 2mm all the way around. Making the rotor shift back and forth instead of staying put.

We called and complained and they sent us a new pair free of charge and the holes were the exact same size.
Old 10-10-2008, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by shutzero
don't buy from there. We got brakes and rotors for my brothers trans am there. The holes were drilled out too large for the wheel studs. theres a good 2mm all the way around. Making the rotor shift back and forth instead of staying put.

We called and complained and they sent us a new pair free of charge and the holes were the exact same size.
The rotor shouldnt move back and forth once the wheel is torqued down.
Old 10-11-2008, 01:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Maven
The only time you HAVE to get new rotors or resurface them is if you change brake pad compounds, if the braking surface is heavily corroede or if youve got grooving in excess of .050" If your rotors are within specs, "look" good, and dont have grooves over .050" deep you dont "need" to repalce or surface them if you are replacing the pads with the same part.

You also dont need to replace pads just because you replace or resurface your rotors, if the pads are worn evenly across the face(not wearing on an angle), and dont have any visible damage you can safely just lightly sand the surface to break down to fresh friction material(just take the "shine" off) clean them off, lube 'em up and install with your fresh/freshly cut rotors.
i should have said if the rotors are warped. that's what i meant to say.

Originally Posted by Red07SSNA
Now you've done it....D4u2s0t is going to start up another thread about the dynamics of rotor replacement and the harmonics associated with using used rotors and new pads

why would i do that?
Old 10-11-2008, 10:41 AM
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Originally Posted by D4u2s0t
i should have said if the rotors are warped. that's what i meant to say.
OMG D4u2s0t made an error!


Originally Posted by D4u2s0t
why would i do that?
Because you did one over the 2.4 intake discussion.
Old 10-11-2008, 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by Red07SSNA
OMG D4u2s0t made an error!

Because you did one over the 2.4 intake discussion.
dude what are you talking about? i don't claim to know everything, and am quick to admit when i make a mistake.

i don't even know what intake discussion you're talking about. i looked posts i created for the last year and a half and haven't started any intake discussions for the 2.4, unless i just missed it or something. i think you have me confused with someone else.


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