I installed powerslot rotors and EBC green stuff pads over the summer and after about 7 months and about 6,000 miles the rotors are already warped. I consider my driving style "spirited" but I don't abuse my brakes so much that this should happen. (My stock GM rotors lasted over 35k miles and 2 years of all-season driving before they went). Any suggestions on a good set of rotors to replace these?

 

maybe you didnt break them in right? and rotors do not warp, they can wear unevenly. if they actually warped, it would be like a bent wheel, you would feel it all the time. if you slam on your brakes and hold it after your stopped, your rotors and pads heat up and you can wear a spot into your rotors. So later on when you apply the brakes you (the pads) will hit that spot over and over and it will vibrate a little bit or you might feel it in the brake pedal.

if this is what could have happened to you, the rotors can be resurfaced.
If you raced around and got them super hot and then hosed them off with cold water, then maybe they warped (or cracked), but I doubt it.

 

Also make sure your wheels are torqued correctly to 100 FT/LBs. Dealerships don't do this, which is why I got my handy dandy Torque wrench

 

100 ft/lbs? just curious how you came up with that number. I'm just curious not saying I don't agree, I always go 85 ft/lbs, thats what I had to use on the truck and trailer wheels to our boats in the Coat Guard. and the boats are 13,000 lbs being pulled by f-350's.

But yea, check all the simple stuff to single out your problem. If you're feeling vibrating, check your tires (for wear and pressure) check the torque on your wheels (dont have to use a Q-wrench, make sure they're tight) and maybe have a shop look at your rotors. You could have even knocked off your alignment.

 

Owner's manual/service manual both have it in plain english: torque spec for wheel lugs = 100ft/lbs

 

just have them cut, it'll warp again in the future but there is nothing you can do about it.

 

Evenly torqued nuts on the rotors is the #1 thing to do when replacing rotors, I have never had issues when torque properly.

 

Hey now. Does it say that for both aluminum AND steel wheels?

 

the torque depends 99% upon the studs and the hub, not so much the wheel, but f you want to be exact all cobalts with all wheels should be torqued to 98 ft lbs

i work at discount tire....so i work on mine alot

if you were curious a porsche carrera GT takes 407 ft pounds.
at discount we have to use like 4 ft pipe extensions and alot of muscle for that.

anyways. that was off topic. make sure your wheels are torqued

also, contact powerslot, i know they have good customer service

 

off topic i know but he said evenly torqued nuts...

 

While I agree that the vast majority of owner's manuals will list the same torque specs for steel as alloy, that is done for simplicities sake and liability purposes. The MAXIMUM torque you can apply is limited by the studs and hub, the minimum is not so straight forward.

When was the last time any of you heard of a steel wheel coming loose? Meanwhile alloys loosen up in regular driving in a lot of setups. Which is why they recommend re-torquing them within a hundred miles any time the wheel is removed.