could anyone who has used this please let me know how much it improves your handling. another thing i was thinking, maybe someone else knows better, but the design for a rear sway bar is very basic, why pay 170$ when you can go to a tool shop have them cut you bar of rolled steel bend the edges and flatten, then take a drill mark your holes then bolt it on yourself. i mean i do quality engineering for a living and i dont see sny benifit of paying 170 for a peice of rolled steel.
personally i am going to look into having one fabricated.
let me know what you think.

 

I have the bar and it does improve handling.
If you know how to do it for less $$ then go for it.

I was skeptical about it at first but I never regret installing it. So I guess I would have to say I recommend it.

 

Here is a link to the group buy page. The buy is over, but in later pages you get lots of reviews on the bar. There is also a place you can get it for 136.95 shipped. Its called ptuning . com

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums//showthread.php?t=45524

Oh yea, and I bought one and love it! I recommend it to everyone from autocross to daily drivers.

 

http://www.neverenoughauto.com/catal...c2529-p-1.html

Got mine for $138.

The reason you buy one is because its measured and engineered to give certain forces at certian loads (specifically 22mm). You go around a corner fully loaded lateraly and have a bolt snap or the bar twist, and well, hope you have gap insurance on your car. I do think it could be done, theres just a lot of math you need to do to make sure you get it right.

see thread... outlines the experience of diffrent bars rather than reposting it.

https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/suspension-67/stock-sway-bar-sizes-49365/

 

if you have the skills and the patients, what I would do, and have done on previous cars, buy a nice long piece of steel and tac weld it onto the rear beam. Basically the rear beam is meant to twist and the SS beam has a good amount of holes molded into it to relieve weight, the welded on steel will stiffen this area up pending on how many welds you have holding the steel plate on ( the fewer the welds the more flexible it will be). I did this on a couple of my older cars that I auto-xd and didn't have a preoblem with a single one. The trick is to do it minimally and then add more welds as you see fit.

I did buy the progress bar this time though and can tell you that its not much of a pipe as it is a bar which means it's solid and there are a couple places built into the bar that will flex a bit more than the rest, it's not as easy as bending a poll into a U shape and bolting it on.

 

If you have the means and ability to do it then I say do it. If you are going to spend over 8 hours designing it and then still have to have it fabricated how much money are you really saving. In my old age, I have learned that sometimes it is just cheaper to buy, then to fabricate. I got in on the GB for 125 shipped and it was money well spent. Great handling. You wont believe the difference.

Art

 

thanks, i appreciate the info. havent decided what im going to do yet, i love good handling and dont want to compromise that, but it still doesnt seem worth that much money, oh well!

 

My friend has a Progress rear sway bar on his Scion xA. He installed it in under and hour and loves it. Easy install + low price= why not? I however plan on going with the Eibach front/rear sway bar kit, as i'm running Eibach sportlines and i'd like to complete my under-car suspension with a matching brand.

 

Come on dude, do a search. ..... I did a review on it...

later