Rear disk conversion - 2006 LT
04-06-2015, 03:04 PM
#1
Rear disk conversion - 2006 LT
So yeah. The time has come. I can't deal with the drum brakes anymore. I have a 2006LT (4x100) and know of a local LSJ non Brembo car being parted out. Entire rear beam is intact, complete with brakes. Already researching a 4x100 rotor that will fit, so what I am wondering is has anyone else tried this yet? Is there anything else I need to grab?
Thought process is to get the beam and brakes off the SS, swap rotors, swap hubs (to 4x100) and then change the entire beam assembly out in the car......
Thought process is to get the beam and brakes off the SS, swap rotors, swap hubs (to 4x100) and then change the entire beam assembly out in the car......
04-06-2015, 03:26 PM
#3
Yeah. I just emailed r1 with the rotor dimensions to see if they have anything that size in a 4x 100
Thought is get the non Brembo rears on, get it working for road racing with 4 wheel disk, maybe next year buy larger track wheels and go Brembos all around, haha. I know theres a 4 x 100 rotor for the Brembos out there.
Thought is get the non Brembo rears on, get it working for road racing with 4 wheel disk, maybe next year buy larger track wheels and go Brembos all around, haha. I know theres a 4 x 100 rotor for the Brembos out there.
04-08-2015, 02:14 AM
#6
Are you asking about the entire swap in general? Or more specific to the discs themselves? I've done this swap twice(both already 5x110 cars) and would be more than willing to give you any advice on the swap, if that's what you're looking for.
04-19-2015, 02:57 PM
#13
It's actually a pretty easy/straight forward swap. A few key points:
You will need the hard brake lines going from the caliper to the flex line, as they are different from drum to disc.
You will need the disc e-brake cables, those are also different.
Where it bolts to the car, there is a metal plate on each side that has the actual swing joint(for lack of a better term). You need to remove the whole plate, not the bolt going through that plate and the axle. One of those will come out fine, but the other is blocked by(I think) the gas tank, and won't come out.
Other than that, pretty easy. Let me know if you have any other questions, and I'll do my best to answer them.
You will need the hard brake lines going from the caliper to the flex line, as they are different from drum to disc.
You will need the disc e-brake cables, those are also different.
Where it bolts to the car, there is a metal plate on each side that has the actual swing joint(for lack of a better term). You need to remove the whole plate, not the bolt going through that plate and the axle. One of those will come out fine, but the other is blocked by(I think) the gas tank, and won't come out.
Other than that, pretty easy. Let me know if you have any other questions, and I'll do my best to answer them.
04-27-2015, 01:03 PM
#20
This was stupidly easy. Had I been more motivated, Coulda had it done on Saturday.
Swapped subframes, swapped ABS valves (that was a bitch, just for getting the lines to start) New hubs, rotors, etc. Got 4x100 and its friggin awesome. Gonna swap the fronts to LSJ soon as well.
Agita, the hard lines you will most likely have to make (M10x 1.00 thread) and im not sure on the SS e brake cables. You will need to pull the carpet up to get the old ones out.... wiggling them out and in to the car took some patience.
Swapped subframes, swapped ABS valves (that was a bitch, just for getting the lines to start) New hubs, rotors, etc. Got 4x100 and its friggin awesome. Gonna swap the fronts to LSJ soon as well.
Agita, the hard lines you will most likely have to make (M10x 1.00 thread) and im not sure on the SS e brake cables. You will need to pull the carpet up to get the old ones out.... wiggling them out and in to the car took some patience.
04-28-2015, 04:54 PM
#21
I didn't have to pull the carpet to swap cables. they feed through a tube. just pulled the old out and pushed the new in.
The hard brake lines you'll have to make. I just sold a second set I made. They aren't too hard to bend. pick up one of those cheapie hand benders from the parts store and use your old lines as templates for the bend angles. you'll have 3 bends to make and obviously you're last bit of brake line wont be formed the same as the drum brake lines but the first 3 should be the same. your new line will just go straight up to the line bracket instead of bending in and connecting to the drum brake backing plate. The hard part will be getting good flares on the ends. I was lucky to use the flare machines a work but doing jobs like that is frowned on. I had to sneak them out of there
It's too bad GM doesn't sell replacements for these.
Id recommend buying coated lines. The ones I used are coated with whats called Nygal. Its a plastic coating to help prevent corrosion. I think the parts stores carry various lengths of coated tubing. you may be able to have them flare the second end once you get the tubing cut to the proper length. I think i cut mine at 14" but it's hard to remember now.
The hard brake lines you'll have to make. I just sold a second set I made. They aren't too hard to bend. pick up one of those cheapie hand benders from the parts store and use your old lines as templates for the bend angles. you'll have 3 bends to make and obviously you're last bit of brake line wont be formed the same as the drum brake lines but the first 3 should be the same. your new line will just go straight up to the line bracket instead of bending in and connecting to the drum brake backing plate. The hard part will be getting good flares on the ends. I was lucky to use the flare machines a work but doing jobs like that is frowned on. I had to sneak them out of there
It's too bad GM doesn't sell replacements for these. 
Id recommend buying coated lines. The ones I used are coated with whats called Nygal. Its a plastic coating to help prevent corrosion. I think the parts stores carry various lengths of coated tubing. you may be able to have them flare the second end once you get the tubing cut to the proper length. I think i cut mine at 14" but it's hard to remember now.
04-29-2015, 03:21 PM
#23
Did you use any alignment pins when you installed the replacement rear beam? I didn't. I just eyeballed it. I think I'm a little off though. I took it in to have it aligned afterwards. They had to add a small shim to one side to bring everything into spec. I told them I replaced the rear beam and that there are only six bolts to loosen if they need to make adjustments for side to side/ front to back. They didn't seem interested in that information. The replacement t prodcedure mentions using 12mm alignment pins to line up the beam. I didn't have those though. I assumed Firestone would and would utilize them. I may just try to find some somewhere and make sure everything is golden then take it back for another alignment. I bought a lifetime alignment a few years ago so, it's no big deal. The only thing I'm concerned with is uneven pad/caliper wear on the side with the shim
