http://rebelautoworxs.com/product_in...products_id=74

anyone kow if this fits the 2.4 automatic?

 

It fits all Cobalts and G5's

 

cool, it says lsj specifically on the site so i had to ask.

 

it does say though let them know befor ehand if you have an automagic

 

Not sure what they would have to adjust but ok.

 

do you have an undercarrage pic?

I installed mine and as long as there is room for a bar to go between the A-arm bolts you will be fine!

 

i dont have any under car pics but i think its all stock like except for the very front where the intercooler is. im not planning on buying it right now but i like to know what parts i can use so i know my plan of action when its time.

 

I wonder if that actually helps

 

Judging by the structure of the car; I'd say it does more for chassis stiffening than a strut bar does.
(If anyone is wondering how I came up with this idea, I will gladly explain...)

 

well then please do... i can't see it doing anything but adding weight.

 

Damn it... someone asks now... on the weekend.
I have the force diagram at work, I'll post it up on Monday.

 

intersting -,

 

OK... I decided to say, screw the diagram...

Basically, it's the fact that assuming equal distribution of weight over all 4 wheels on to the ground surface.... you put down ~750lbs/wheel.
Now, considering that a vehicle is a true 3 dimensional object... the center of gravity in such as car is approximately located slightly about a foot above the cars floor, in between the driver and passenger seats.
The greatest moment (twist) the car will see, will be located at that point... as it is the furthest from any given support to the ground.
Also considering the fact that the closest cross braces to that point (between the main loaded members) are located a the front of the car (fire wall), rear of the car (rear deck), and the roof; and are all several feet away, the resulting stress from the body twist is only slightly reduced.
A sub frame bar, such as the one in question, is actually mounted in closer to the major stress point, and thus reduces body flex and avoids future fatigue in the materials.

Now on to the strut bar.
Considering that the strut bar is located within a foot of a major stress member (the firewall) it is apparent that it doesn't do a whole lot as far as body stiffening. According to my rough calculations, it can only absorb (at maximum load) 10% of the total twist in the body... while the firewall absorbs the rest.
We have to understand that the strut bar was designed for one purpose, to avoid coupling twists in the front suspension, it is a wise purchase as well. It doesn't actually strengthen the body of the car, but rather provide a secondary connection point between the front suspension loading points.

 

Whoa!!!.... that thing about the auto and manual tranny wasn't on there when I made this purchase through the group buy.... I havent installed mine due to the shitty weather....


I am gonna be mad pissed off if it don't fit right.

 

i don't know its a good point, but then would say a floor brace and a harnes bar (if the center bar of the harnes bar was welded) be even better? and if your gonna put all that in just get a bolt in roll bar, cause that pretty much the same thing then.