Rotor Install... how hard?
not very. if you can do break pads, you can do a rotor. as a rule, you remove the two retaining bolts that hold the caliper on... swing it of the rotor and then the rotor will pull right off... maybe with a smidge of PB oil and a rubber mallet.
nothing holds it on other than the brakes and the wheel.
nothing holds it on other than the brakes and the wheel.
Originally Posted by kyyankee
remember to cut the retainer washers.
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From: Dayton, O HI O
Originally Posted by FRIARPOP
Didnt know they made a haynes manual for the cobalt yet?
there are really thin flat washers that are pushed on to hold if flush up and down they need to be cliped of with wire cutters and then they pull off. Bleeding the brakes I did it once its not hard just be SUPER CAREFUL screwing them back in JUST TIGHT ENOUGH. I fubared them and tightened them too much and they went off the threads into the calipers and i needed to get the parts of the calipers replaced.
Some additional comments...
You should not have to "cut" the retainer nuts (called washers above). They might not even be installed. With the wheel off, look for a simple, flat washer-looking thing on the wheel lugs. They are just holding the rotor in place, and are easily removed. Don't sweat it. Here is what one looks like:

Also, there should be no need whatsoever to bleed your system. As long as you don't open it, it will be fine, leave it alone.
This job is actually very simple. Don't do anything more then you have to. Take the wheel off, take the caliper off, take the rotor off, clean everything up and replace with the new parts. That's it, done.
You should not have to "cut" the retainer nuts (called washers above). They might not even be installed. With the wheel off, look for a simple, flat washer-looking thing on the wheel lugs. They are just holding the rotor in place, and are easily removed. Don't sweat it. Here is what one looks like:

Also, there should be no need whatsoever to bleed your system. As long as you don't open it, it will be fine, leave it alone.
This job is actually very simple. Don't do anything more then you have to. Take the wheel off, take the caliper off, take the rotor off, clean everything up and replace with the new parts. That's it, done.
Originally Posted by Halfcent
Some additional comments...
You should not have to "cut" the retainer nuts (called washers above). They might not even be installed. With the wheel off, look for a simple, flat washer-looking thing on the wheel lugs. They are just holding the rotor in place, and are easily removed. Don't sweat it. Here is what one looks like:
Also, there should be no need whatsoever to bleed your system. As long as you don't open it, it will be fine, leave it alone.
This job is actually very simple. Don't do anything more then you have to. Take the wheel off, take the caliper off, take the rotor off, clean everything up and replace with the new parts. That's it, done.
You should not have to "cut" the retainer nuts (called washers above). They might not even be installed. With the wheel off, look for a simple, flat washer-looking thing on the wheel lugs. They are just holding the rotor in place, and are easily removed. Don't sweat it. Here is what one looks like:
Also, there should be no need whatsoever to bleed your system. As long as you don't open it, it will be fine, leave it alone.
This job is actually very simple. Don't do anything more then you have to. Take the wheel off, take the caliper off, take the rotor off, clean everything up and replace with the new parts. That's it, done.
Originally Posted by BlackLS
Thanks for the help and I know you wont have to bleed the brakes if you are just changing the rotors but I plan on getting new pads when I get rotors so I figured I'd ask how it is done.
there is a little valve on the caliper. it's like a screw with a hole in it... there is a thing called a brake bleeder bottle, costs about $9 at NAPA. you hook the little hose it comes with to this valve while it's open, get in the car and pump the brakes like hell. add some fluid to the booster and do it again.
then repeat on other side.
ghetto method... add fluid to booster, have a buddy pump the brakes... once he feels pressure, open the valve till fluid comes out... add more to the booster and repeat a few times.
One big thing is that when you use a c-clamp to push the calipers back in (to make room for the new pads since they are thicker) only do one wheel at a time. If both calipers are loose and you go to push the one piston back in there is no resistance on the other one and it can pop out. The moral of the story: Do one wheel at a time and finish it completely by changing the pads and rotor, seal it up, and then move on. If you do it this way there is no need to bleed the brakes.
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but you need a C clamp to push in the caliper piston!
