I'm going to pick up some new rotors soon and I have a few quick questions...

I've heard not to get cross-drilled and slotted rotors, just get slotted rotors...Is this true? or getting both is fine?

What would be the problem with getting both, since I've seen lots of guys on here with them?

Thanks

 

It's the ever ongoing debate about the holes cracking on cross-drilled rotors and the surface area that is reduced by cross-drilling. Just about any rotor manufacturer (Powerslot, DBA, EBC, etc.) will explain the pros and cons. Check out their websites and do some research before you decide. Don't buy any cheap brands (JC Whitney, etc).

I personally have always used Powerslot stotted rotors with Performance Friction Pads. I purchased EBC Sport rotors (slotted and dimpled) with redstuff ceramic pads for the Balt. They work very well, wear is minimal on the rotor, virtually no brake dust but the slots are so wide that they are very noisy while driving.

 

Power Slot and EBC green stuff pads, both can be found at www.TurboTechRacing.com and we try to keep them in stock. This is the number 1 choice of our customers.

 

Cross drilled are more likely to wear and crack. They were originally designed for use on race cars since *EVERY* ounce saved is more speed. But they can afford to change them out after every race, unlike consumers.

A good slotted or solid rotor will do you fine. Slotted tends to handle repeated hard breaking better then solid, but as shadowfaxss said, they are more noisy.

 

thanks guys...anyone else got some info?

and how noisy are we talking here? and what type of noise?

 

Slotted-only is the way to go if you get anything. Cross-drilled crack quite easily.

For the person who said about race cars. I run a road course near me. 90% of the cars who go out with cross-drilled rotors (OEM or aftermarket) crack one or more before the end of the day. Typically that's less than 100 miles.

 

Let's say the Powerslot rotors I run on my GA hae very thin slots and have a very faint whirling noise....and I mean VERY faint. The EBC Sport rotors have a wider slot and the whirling noise is very noticeable with the windows down. It is not so severe that you have to turn your stereo up. They work so well though

 

ah, most of the cars ive been in you dont really even notice the noise off the rotors. basically you will hear everything else (and usually the car already has like an intake and exhaust possibly some more aggressive tires, so the noise is more prevalent there.

but personally, i like hawk pads. i lean towards carbon pads over anything else. but if your the type of person that would rather have clean wheels then stop on a dime, dont get them. carbon pads dont fade under harsh braking. ebc green stuff pads do fade, but they do recover. so id take hawk over ebc.

also as of rotors, stick to slotted.

oh, and stay away from ceramic pads. they just are not good for the life of rotors. they last forever, but eat rotors alive and love to warp them. now some may say, well manufacturers use ceramic pads on the cars stock so they arent bad. yes, that is true, but there again they dont intend on the cars being beat on. alot of new cars warp rotors fast because of harsh braking with ceramic pads. im almost certain my moms ion3 sedan has ceramics and the rotors were warped at 400 miles on the odo (yes 400 miles brand new). she is harsh on brakes. so is my dad on his focus, which i have replaced his rotors 4 times in the past year and a half due to ceramic pads tearing them up. i have since put on some custom cross drilled and slotted brembo rotors with bendix titaniumetallic pads. 8 months since installed which is the longest its ever gone without needing brake work!!!!! the rotors are custom because they were solid brembos with a shops own cad design with less holes that are smaller and are ah how can i say it, countersunk. that doesnt sound right, but probably get the idea.