Suspension Springs, Shocks, Brakes

Suspension advise (knuckles & control arms)

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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 01:43 PM
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Suspension advise (knuckles & control arms)

Alright guys I am looking to finish my suspension on my LT before the upcoming road racing/autox season.

My Current suspension modifications include:
SS/SC front sway bar - (still using 1 bolt clamp though) Is it really worth the effort to drill and tap the other hole and use the 2 bolt clamp? has anybody's ever actually ripped out?

TTR rear sway bar- Currently i am pretty happy with it, but will probably upgrade to the OTTP hardcore.

SS/TC struts W/SSC springs (pedders springs and ottp rack spacers will be here in a week )

DC sports strut bar (i know it doesn't do much)

So what i am mostly looking for is input on control arms and steering knuckles. Which control arms would be best to go with? The SS/SC? SS/TC? do they bolt right up? are there any other parts needed for the install? I will be installing the OTTP spherical CAB's into either one.

Now as for the steering knuckles, I have read that they are all the same (with the exception of the SS/TC, So is that the way to go? or would the GM competitive knuckles be better? is there and difference in the ride, or just stronger? also any other parts needed?

Also looking for input on sway bar end links. I was thinking of going with moog or powergrid. What are the benefits of the powergrid vs moog?

Any other input/recommendations would be appreciated as well!

Thanks
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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Bummmmmp!
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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From: Costa Mesa CA
SS/SC and TC control arms are the same. They bolt right up, make sure to get the OTTP bushings.

GM competitive knuckles are just stronger, not totally necessary. It'd be really impressive if you managed to break one.

Powergrids are adjustable, Moogs are not.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 10:57 PM
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DC strut bar does nothing but weigh the front of the car down
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 11:01 PM
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Stiffening the front end with a strut bar is just encouraging understeer. SS/TC knuckles are beefed up some and are shorter where the tie rod ends attach providing a much quicker steering ratio. Worth the upgrade for a race driven car. If you don't know how to properly preload the sway bar with the adjustable sway bar end links, the adjustability will be useless to you.
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Old Apr 3, 2010 | 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by slowswap
Stiffening the front end with a strut bar is just encouraging understeer. SS/TC knuckles are beefed up some and are shorter where the tie rod ends attach providing a much quicker steering ratio. Worth the upgrade for a race driven car. If you don't know how to properly preload the sway bar with the adjustable sway bar end links, the adjustability will be useless to you.
Strut bar does NOTHING but make your wallet lighter and make your car heavier.

Adding a bigger front sway bar would, bigger than either FE5 is overkill.

Moogs are cheaper and good, but the powergrids are kickass...
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 11:18 AM
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the adjustability of the powergrid enables you to make sure there is no preload on your bar. that can happen for all sorts of reasons - production variation in oem bars/different ride height left right on the strut/coil over strut variation/etc... and it is a kickass part. I love them...BTW your car deserves good parts...hardcore OTTP bar is a good part...Slowswap is right on TC knuckles, stronger/shorter steering arm/accepts Brembos/needs longer caliper bracket mounting bolts if upgrading an NA without a Brembo upgrade, for which you need longer bolts anyway....

Last edited by qwikredline; Apr 4, 2010 at 01:26 PM.
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
the adjustability of the powergrid enables you to make sure there is no preload on your bar. that can happen for all sorts of reasons - production variation in oem bars/different ride height left right on the strut/coil over strut variation/etc... and it is a kickass part. I love them...BTW your car deserves good parts...hardcore OTTP bar is a good part...Slowsap is right on TC knuckles, stronger/shorter steering arm/accepts Brembos/needs longer caliper bracket mounting bolts if upgrading an NA without a Brembo upgrade, for which you need longer bolts for anyway....
You can also preload a corner if you want to go in circles. lol
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Old Apr 4, 2010 | 01:43 PM
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P.S. you will rip the sway bar mounts out in auto x if you do not put in the second bolt on the front bar ....many here already have done so ...
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 01:21 AM
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subsribed. great question and info.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 01:36 AM
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definatley get the fe5 control arms and powell/ottp bushings. best mod ive done besides ss/sc front brakes and turbo
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 08:32 PM
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From: SL,UT
Originally Posted by slowswap
Stiffening the front end with a strut bar is just encouraging understeer. SS/TC knuckles are beefed up some and are shorter where the tie rod ends attach providing a much quicker steering ratio. Worth the upgrade for a race driven car. If you don't know how to properly preload the sway bar with the adjustable sway bar end links, the adjustability will be useless to you.
Well that's why i am here is to learn.. Please don't under estimate the passion i have for my car as well as racing. I know i should have bought an SS but i was only 19 at the time of purchase and didn't have much income. I have already dumped thousands of dollars in modifications into this car. Now that i am a few years older and have a steady income I am looking to make it perform the best it can as well as prevent anything from braking on the track lol..

So would you recommend getting rid of the strut bar all together? (sell it for other parts )
Originally Posted by qwikredline
the adjustability of the powergrid enables you to make sure there is no preload on your bar. that can happen for all sorts of reasons - production variation in oem bars/different ride height left right on the strut/coil over strut variation/etc... and it is a kickass part. I love them...BTW your car deserves good parts...hardcore OTTP bar is a good part...Slowswap is right on TC knuckles, stronger/shorter steering arm/accepts Brembos/needs longer caliper bracket mounting bolts if upgrading an NA without a Brembo upgrade, for which you need longer bolts anyway....
Ok so it looks like SS/TC knuckles are definitely on my list!
So how do you go about adjusting the end links? I imagine the car has to be level for this. jacked up?

I will upgrade to the hardcore bar one day, but i'd really like to get some of these other parts done first. As is I am pretty happy with my TTR bar (zips up flame suit lol)What are the differences between the 2?

So what all is needed for the Brembo swap? Just the calipers & rotors? Do they make 4 lug rotors that are suitable or would i have to custom drill the SS/TC rotors? Would SS/SC brakes be sufficient? or do they have problems with over heating also?


Originally Posted by qwikredline
P.S. you will rip the sway bar mounts out in auto x if you do not put in the second bolt on the front bar ....many here already have done so ...
Ok good to know.. I will read up on your wright up again
Originally Posted by scagnetti76
subsribed. great question and info.
Hey man! Long time! How ya been? I
Originally Posted by 09blackonblack
definatley get the fe5 control arms and powell/ottp bushings. best mod ive done besides ss/sc front brakes and turbo
Thanks i plan on it! what did you do as far as your brake swap? still on rear drums?

THANKS FOR ALL THE INPUT GUYS! I really appreciate it! Hopefully this thread will help others as well.

Last edited by OBZ; Apr 5, 2010 at 09:28 PM.
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Old Apr 5, 2010 | 08:34 PM
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yeah im still on rear drums, one of these days i will upgrade the shoes or do the rear disk conversion.
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 07:16 PM
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Bump! Also any links to good suspension/brake swaps wright ups would be appreciated!
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Old Apr 6, 2010 | 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by qwikredline
P.S. you will rip the sway bar mounts out in auto x if you do not put in the second bolt on the front bar ....many here already have done so ...
I went to great lengths to get my 2 bolt swaybar bushing brackets a couple of weeks ago and I was told there were fewer than 26 in the US inventory as they are now apparently obsolete and they are going to the single bolt style. I haven't had the time to get the TSB up to further investigate, but I will try to do so tomorrow.

Originally Posted by OBZ
I will upgrade to the hardcore bar one day, but i'd really like to get some of these other parts done first. As is I am pretty happy with my TTR bar (zips up flame suit lol)What are the differences between the 2?

So what all is needed for the Brembo swap? Just the calipers & rotors? Do they make 4 lug rotors that are suitable or would i have to custom drill the SS/TC rotors? Would SS/SC brakes be sufficient? or do they have problems with over heating also?
I formerly had the TTR bar as well, and have since upgraded to the OTTP HC bar. I'll give a quick and dirty rundown. The material of the TTR, as I'd guess you have read about, has a potential issue of warping at the mounting pads or, if stressed enough, the bar itself. Secondly, the weight difference is night and day! I did one of those actions where you expect to pick up something heavier than it is and you fly up like an idiot. That weight alone makes a huge difference to me, but the car definitely rotates in a better fashion.

The Brembo upgrade in your case basically needs all the front brake hardware including mount bolts, pins, hoses, etc. I think there is a thread w/ the list somewhere(stickied maybe?). If you do go with them, looking into the master cylinder, and at the same time a rear upgrade will probably be in order. The issue you know you are running into is the rotors if you choose to use 4 lug, which personally I'd consider ditching. It will get expensive, and the cost vs benefit definitely comes in with this big of a step. SS/SC brakes may prove to be a substantially greater bang for the buck deal. They do overheat if run hard though. Some guys that auto-x, swear that using stock or aftermarket upgrade pads with brembo brand(SS/SC) "blank" vented rotors are the best choice short of a SS/TC Brembo or big brake kit. Lot of options, lots of info... Kind of a "what do you really need?" situation. Choices Choices... Good luck!
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Old Apr 8, 2010 | 12:18 AM
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Originally Posted by Eco-Mod
I went to great lengths to get my 2 bolt swaybar bushing brackets a couple of weeks ago and I was told there were fewer than 26 in the US inventory as they are now apparently obsolete and they are going to the single bolt style. I haven't had the time to get the TSB up to further investigate, but I will try to do so tomorrow.


I formerly had the TTR bar as well, and have since upgraded to the OTTP HC bar. I'll give a quick and dirty rundown. The material of the TTR, as I'd guess you have read about, has a potential issue of warping at the mounting pads or, if stressed enough, the bar itself. Secondly, the weight difference is night and day! I did one of those actions where you expect to pick up something heavier than it is and you fly up like an idiot. That weight alone makes a huge difference to me, but the car definitely rotates in a better fashion.

The Brembo upgrade in your case basically needs all the front brake hardware including mount bolts, pins, hoses, etc. I think there is a thread w/ the list somewhere(stickied maybe?). If you do go with them, looking into the master cylinder, and at the same time a rear upgrade will probably be in order. The issue you know you are running into is the rotors if you choose to use 4 lug, which personally I'd consider ditching. It will get expensive, and the cost vs benefit definitely comes in with this big of a step. SS/SC brakes may prove to be a substantially greater bang for the buck deal. They do overheat if run hard though. Some guys that auto-x, swear that using stock or aftermarket upgrade pads with brembo brand(SS/SC) "blank" vented rotors are the best choice short of a SS/TC Brembo or big brake kit. Lot of options, lots of info... Kind of a "what do you really need?" situation. Choices Choices... Good luck!
Very good info thanks! That is interesting to hear about the lack of 2 bolt clamps.. Definitely keep us updated on what you find out about that.

I will also update this thread with my progress!

PS bump for good links/reads
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