steven6870

iTrader: (1)

Okay regarding sway bars, I know we have OTTP, TTR, and Eibach Rear Bars, and from my knowledge only Eibach offers Front Bars.

My questions are...Is the front really worth it? Hell, is the rear even really worth it? I can get a set of front and rear eibach bars for under 290. Is this the best bet, or should I should buy a rear bar, such as the ottp hardcore rear bar, and forget the front?

BTW my car is a 08 G85 SS/TC, and I am deciding on buying H&R, SSC, Sportlines, or Pedder springs.

Feel free to give opinions on spring choice too. I am somewhat noobish on suspension, seeing as all I used to care about was straight line performance.

Thanks.

qwikredline

Pedders + OTTP rear bar is all u need. You got the rest.....

steven6870

iTrader: (1)

Yeh, I know there is like a major thread on the pedders and OTTP setup that Maven and a few other guys are running. Sounds great, but I would gladly opt for something that drops a tad bit more, that gives "slightly" less performance. The way I see it Pedders are best performance, Eibachs have the most nuthuggers, and H&R gives a very aggressive drop. I dont really know much about SSC springs.

I just worry about the aggressive drop that I want will actually damage the struts. I know noone makes a strut bar for the tc, even though it wouldnt really help considering the TC setup is actually pretty decent. But why no front sway bar? Or how about a front sub frame bar?

09turbo

you forgot progress. they have font and rear.
correct me if im wrong...

OrngBalt

with a TC I dont think there are any legitimate front upgrades to justify the cost and the work required to install.

Even a base model is probably close to not fully worth it.

steven6870

iTrader: (1)

Yeh, they do, but I meant for the ss/tc. They arent made for the 08-09 TC.

I need to PM IsItFast, I think he actually has front,rear, and sub frame.

G5GtTurboCharged

FE5 front sway bar FTW

IsItFast?

I'd recommend staying stock on the front bar. The trouble of installing the front bar is not worth it - if anything I lost some handling performance. I am very happy with the ttr rear bar - I went from mild understeer to mild oversteer. For springs it depends on what you are going for. The eibach springs have a softer ride than stock, but thanks to the lowering I am able to take turns faster ( just don't forget to trim the bumpstops following eibachs instructions online)

let me know if you have any questions.

qwikredline

eibach instructions to cut rear bump stops are generic. dont do it, please. it may cause your shocks to overtravel, bottom out, and damage them

IsItFast?

If you don't cut them, you will be hitting the bumpstops on every bump and bottoming out, which definitely hurts handling. Don't remove them though! IIRC its only like 20mm you take off. Even if it eventually damages the shocks thats a good excuse for new shocks .

09turbo

shows what i know

steven6870

iTrader: (1)

Thanks man. Big help. One last question...how are the ottp mounts? Is it worth the 400 dollars?

qwikredline

where do you get this from? I am asking. I did not cut do. not reccomend cutting rear bumpstops, what do I know? I raced on Eibachs with Hoosier R100 slicks and did not touch the bump stops (thats why they are there) and to say you will be hitting bumpstops over every bump well I ran eibachs for 30k miles on the street , well that is definitely not my experience. Further it does not measure that way. Take the rear shocks off the springs coil bind before they hit the bump stops.

Yes, OTTP rear bar and rotated mounts are worth every penny. I make the things....the rear bar is chromalloy, the competitors are mild steel untreated so go google how to make a sway bar to find out what that means. The rotated mounts fix the axle geometry among other things. enuf said

IsItFast?

I would have gone with the OTTP bar but it was slow coming out . At the time of my purchase TTR was the only one with a rear bar, it wasn't until a few months later the other alternatives came out. Whenever I get around to doing the coilovers, I'm going to swap the stock front bar back in, change the rear bar, and do the upgraded CAB's at the same time.

As for the mounts - really nice CNC'd pieces, definitely high quality. With them in, although I feel quite a bit more vibration in the cab, I have absolutely no wheel hop whatsoever now. They are a MUST if you want to save your transmission .

qwikredline, on OTTP's page they mention a "spacer" for the rear mount, my mounts were just the mounts.. was something else supposed to come in the kit? (other than the pieces that keep the mount centered on the bolt).

qwikredline

stage 1 which has no vibes, takes a stock rear mount and a spacer, this spacer lifts and rotates the motor; the front completes the rotation. The rear stock bushing insert yields but still isolates for vibes. Stage 2 we made the billet mount with the spacer "machined in" so you do not need the extra (pita ) piece. The change of the rear bushing insert in stage 2 creates idle vibes, which you have found.

10-4 on slow coming out with the rear bar, all my fault I was slow as molassess getting them finished and had to re-jig a bunch of them as there was a shift in the jig. No not drunk..... Happily they all fit and only one comeback on the nut plates, Northvibe I think, who fixed it himself, and I have changed the design on to prevent the issues he had...
the issue with a mild steel non spring steel bar i found out the hard way 40 years ago. They twist and dont come right back. That means really the car will handle better one way than the other and will weight jack one way or the other. Eventually they will give up take a set and stay there....if you put the car on 4 corner scales you can find that out for yourself, and if you go to coil overs you should do that anyway to balance the car right. But disconnect the front and rear bars to do corner weights, then re connect the bars and check again...