Sway Bars?
Haz l33t wheelz.
Joined: 09-14-07
Posts: 18,883
Likes: 3
From: Costa Mesa CA
seriously, I have noticed over the years that some folks appear to have novocaine up their ass.
If you set the tire pressures on your cobalt 32 left front and 34 right front and cant feel the difference? then you got novoicane up your ass.
If you drive down the road and notice the car is getting bad gas mileage, and when you get home find the rear tire flat? then you got novocaine up your ass
If you find your car sluggish and unresponsive, and kinda stinky and find when you get home that you forgot the hand brake was on? you got novocaine up your ass.
etc...
If you set the tire pressures on your cobalt 32 left front and 34 right front and cant feel the difference? then you got novoicane up your ass.
If you drive down the road and notice the car is getting bad gas mileage, and when you get home find the rear tire flat? then you got novocaine up your ass
If you find your car sluggish and unresponsive, and kinda stinky and find when you get home that you forgot the hand brake was on? you got novocaine up your ass.
etc...
Alright. I'm a bit of a noob still at this kind of stuff so what would i see the most gains out of? I am only going to buy 1 for now. Eventually ill get all three.
1. MRZ Strut bar.
2. Turbo tech Racing Rear Sway Bar
3. Eibach front sway bar.
I'm looking to make my car more fun on the street. Id like to increase overall stiffness make it more enjoyable.
What would be the best thing to do first?
1. MRZ Strut bar.
2. Turbo tech Racing Rear Sway Bar
3. Eibach front sway bar.
I'm looking to make my car more fun on the street. Id like to increase overall stiffness make it more enjoyable.
What would be the best thing to do first?
Here this might help you a bit to understand how it looks like and help you with your decision on the proper sway bar for you needs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGSnLGgeai8
Understeer and OversteerWhen discussing the handling characteristics of a vehicle, the words "oversteer" and "understeer" come up all the time. Here's a basic description of what those terms mean, and a little bit of theory about why particular cars exhibit either oversteer or understeer.
Definitions:
"Understeer", also known as "push", and "dammit, why won't the car turn?", happens when a vehicle doesn't turn as quickly as the angle of the front wheels would suggest. Turning the steering wheel further just makes the tires slip more. An understeering vehicle wants to point to the outside of a turn, plowing ahead instead of where the wheels are aimed.
"Oversteer", AKA "loose", or "OH S*&T!", is when the vehicle wants to turn too far, with the back end sliding around and, in extreme cases, trying to pass the front. An oversteering vehicle feels like it's about to spin, and frequently does if the driver isn't skilled enough to "catch" it.
An easy way to remember the difference is that Understeer is when you see what you're about to hit through the windshield, but Oversteer means you see it in the mirrors...
A little theory:
There are a lot of different dynamics that cause under- or oversteer; the front-to-rear weight bias of the car, the presence or absence of anti-sway bar(s), which wheels are doing the work of accelerating the car, and even the size and type of tires.
Most cars come from the factory with a bias towards understeer. That's because it's generally thought that understeer is easier for the average driver to cope with than oversteer, which is probably true. The instinctual reaction for a driver in a sliding car is to lift off the throttle and hit the brakes, which will transfer weight to the front end and increase traction there, helping an understeering car to recover control. Doing the same thing in a car that's oversteering will usually make the situation worse by unloading the rear tires and further reducing their traction.
For this reason, you'll almost never see a factory-stock car with a rear anti-roll bar, but no bar on the front. Without getting into a lot of advanced car dynamics, I'll just say that putting a "swaybar" or anti-roll bar on one end of the car (or replacing an existing one with a stiffer bar) will tend to give the opposite end of the car more traction. Thus, most cars come equipped with a front bar but none in the rear, or if they have both, the front bar will be considerably stiffer. This preserves the tendency to "safely" understeer once the limits of handling are reached.
It's possible for a vehicle to exhibit both understeer and oversteer at different times. A classic example of this is the first-generation Porsche 911 Turbo. With the weight of the engine over the back axle, a big tire size difference front-to-rear, and an engine that produces a sudden hit of power when the turbo spools up, the old 911 Turbos were notorious for their evil handling characteristics, going from power-off understeer to power-on oversteer at the speed of thought. Porsche has managed to breed these traits out of the newer 911's through careful chassis tuning, redistribution of weight, and the adoption of an all-wheel-drive system for the newest Turbos.
Here this might help you a bit to understand how it looks like and help you with your decision on the proper sway bar for you needs.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGSnLGgeai8
Understeer and OversteerWhen discussing the handling characteristics of a vehicle, the words "oversteer" and "understeer" come up all the time. Here's a basic description of what those terms mean, and a little bit of theory about why particular cars exhibit either oversteer or understeer.
Definitions:
"Understeer", also known as "push", and "dammit, why won't the car turn?", happens when a vehicle doesn't turn as quickly as the angle of the front wheels would suggest. Turning the steering wheel further just makes the tires slip more. An understeering vehicle wants to point to the outside of a turn, plowing ahead instead of where the wheels are aimed.
"Oversteer", AKA "loose", or "OH S*&T!", is when the vehicle wants to turn too far, with the back end sliding around and, in extreme cases, trying to pass the front. An oversteering vehicle feels like it's about to spin, and frequently does if the driver isn't skilled enough to "catch" it.
An easy way to remember the difference is that Understeer is when you see what you're about to hit through the windshield, but Oversteer means you see it in the mirrors...
A little theory:
There are a lot of different dynamics that cause under- or oversteer; the front-to-rear weight bias of the car, the presence or absence of anti-sway bar(s), which wheels are doing the work of accelerating the car, and even the size and type of tires.
Most cars come from the factory with a bias towards understeer. That's because it's generally thought that understeer is easier for the average driver to cope with than oversteer, which is probably true. The instinctual reaction for a driver in a sliding car is to lift off the throttle and hit the brakes, which will transfer weight to the front end and increase traction there, helping an understeering car to recover control. Doing the same thing in a car that's oversteering will usually make the situation worse by unloading the rear tires and further reducing their traction.
For this reason, you'll almost never see a factory-stock car with a rear anti-roll bar, but no bar on the front. Without getting into a lot of advanced car dynamics, I'll just say that putting a "swaybar" or anti-roll bar on one end of the car (or replacing an existing one with a stiffer bar) will tend to give the opposite end of the car more traction. Thus, most cars come equipped with a front bar but none in the rear, or if they have both, the front bar will be considerably stiffer. This preserves the tendency to "safely" understeer once the limits of handling are reached.
It's possible for a vehicle to exhibit both understeer and oversteer at different times. A classic example of this is the first-generation Porsche 911 Turbo. With the weight of the engine over the back axle, a big tire size difference front-to-rear, and an engine that produces a sudden hit of power when the turbo spools up, the old 911 Turbos were notorious for their evil handling characteristics, going from power-off understeer to power-on oversteer at the speed of thought. Porsche has managed to breed these traits out of the newer 911's through careful chassis tuning, redistribution of weight, and the adoption of an all-wheel-drive system for the newest Turbos.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UGSnLGgeai8
Understeer and OversteerWhen discussing the handling characteristics of a vehicle, the words "oversteer" and "understeer" come up all the time. Here's a basic description of what those terms mean, and a little bit of theory about why particular cars exhibit either oversteer or understeer.
Definitions:
"Understeer", also known as "push", and "dammit, why won't the car turn?", happens when a vehicle doesn't turn as quickly as the angle of the front wheels would suggest. Turning the steering wheel further just makes the tires slip more. An understeering vehicle wants to point to the outside of a turn, plowing ahead instead of where the wheels are aimed.
"Oversteer", AKA "loose", or "OH S*&T!", is when the vehicle wants to turn too far, with the back end sliding around and, in extreme cases, trying to pass the front. An oversteering vehicle feels like it's about to spin, and frequently does if the driver isn't skilled enough to "catch" it.
An easy way to remember the difference is that Understeer is when you see what you're about to hit through the windshield, but Oversteer means you see it in the mirrors...
A little theory:
There are a lot of different dynamics that cause under- or oversteer; the front-to-rear weight bias of the car, the presence or absence of anti-sway bar(s), which wheels are doing the work of accelerating the car, and even the size and type of tires.
Most cars come from the factory with a bias towards understeer. That's because it's generally thought that understeer is easier for the average driver to cope with than oversteer, which is probably true. The instinctual reaction for a driver in a sliding car is to lift off the throttle and hit the brakes, which will transfer weight to the front end and increase traction there, helping an understeering car to recover control. Doing the same thing in a car that's oversteering will usually make the situation worse by unloading the rear tires and further reducing their traction.
For this reason, you'll almost never see a factory-stock car with a rear anti-roll bar, but no bar on the front. Without getting into a lot of advanced car dynamics, I'll just say that putting a "swaybar" or anti-roll bar on one end of the car (or replacing an existing one with a stiffer bar) will tend to give the opposite end of the car more traction. Thus, most cars come equipped with a front bar but none in the rear, or if they have both, the front bar will be considerably stiffer. This preserves the tendency to "safely" understeer once the limits of handling are reached.
It's possible for a vehicle to exhibit both understeer and oversteer at different times. A classic example of this is the first-generation Porsche 911 Turbo. With the weight of the engine over the back axle, a big tire size difference front-to-rear, and an engine that produces a sudden hit of power when the turbo spools up, the old 911 Turbos were notorious for their evil handling characteristics, going from power-off understeer to power-on oversteer at the speed of thought. Porsche has managed to breed these traits out of the newer 911's through careful chassis tuning, redistribution of weight, and the adoption of an all-wheel-drive system for the newest Turbos.
But I dont think these Balts will move that wall to far though.
Gotta keep it clean, 4340 will rust also, any steel will rust, unless it is stainless or some alloy (aluminum/brass/etc). Road salt and small stones from the tires are really hard on the underside of the car. It is like a sand blaster. The factory trailing arm beam sure gets a beating also.
Gotta keep it clean, 4340 will rust also, any steel will rust, unless it is stainless or some alloy (aluminum/brass/etc). Road salt and small stones from the tires are really hard on the underside of the car. It is like a sand blaster. The factory trailing arm beam sure gets a beating also.
OP, youll find that a set of springs (pedders are my choice for best performance and ride) and a rear antisway bar will be the two hard parts that will provide the most dramatic change to most people. Leve the front bar alone and get an OTTP or Eibach rear bar. See what yu think of it. They are under $200 and easy as cake to install. They WILL make a difference. If you want more "stiffness" after that switch to a set of pedders springs.
Thats some fantastic cut and paste skills you got there....at least give credit when you do **** like that. Somebody else worked hard to type all that and know what it actually meant.
Thats some fantastic cut and paste skills you got there....at least give credit when you do **** like that. Somebody else worked hard to type all that and know what it actually meant.
With the G5 I had before the balt it was a LT I put lowering springs on it and yes the handling was better but when the rear swaybar was installed thats when it really became fun to hammer it through the corners. It made the car turn so much nicer no more sliding the front tires.
The balt with the Pedders and Ottp rear bar is Friggin sweet car goes through corners almost flat and will rotate the rear almost like driving a rear drive car.
The balt with the Pedders and Ottp rear bar is Friggin sweet car goes through corners almost flat and will rotate the rear almost like driving a rear drive car.
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Oct 1, 2015 12:08 AM