Warped Rotors?
Warped Rotors?
Im looking for some input
I just changed the rims and tires on my car, and less than a day of driving the rotors appear to be warped. I changed back to the factory rims just to check and the factory rims still make the vibration. In my mind this points to the brakes being the cause of vibration.
It vibrates under moderate braking but not light and not really heavy braking only noticeable at higher speeds between 50 and 70+. The Tires I put on are 215/45zr17s bfgoodrich g-force t/a KDW NT or 2 whatever. The point is they are alot more sticky, ive done a few fast stops, and a lady cut me off then stoped short in trafic but I just thought it was odd that I put on the new rims and tires then all the sudden vibration in the front. Im just wondering if I put on the new rotors is it just going to warp in a short period of time anyhow?
I just changed the rims and tires on my car, and less than a day of driving the rotors appear to be warped. I changed back to the factory rims just to check and the factory rims still make the vibration. In my mind this points to the brakes being the cause of vibration.
It vibrates under moderate braking but not light and not really heavy braking only noticeable at higher speeds between 50 and 70+. The Tires I put on are 215/45zr17s bfgoodrich g-force t/a KDW NT or 2 whatever. The point is they are alot more sticky, ive done a few fast stops, and a lady cut me off then stoped short in trafic but I just thought it was odd that I put on the new rims and tires then all the sudden vibration in the front. Im just wondering if I put on the new rotors is it just going to warp in a short period of time anyhow?
rotors are replaced under bumper to bumper.
Chevrolet has the shittiest rotors out. Its not only with the cobalt but with other Chevy models as well. I was at the dealership talking about it when 4 others chimed in about how crappy they were.
Mine were warping every oil change so i just bought some drilled and slotted ones off ebay. Hasnt warped for 30,000 miles.
Chevrolet has the shittiest rotors out. Its not only with the cobalt but with other Chevy models as well. I was at the dealership talking about it when 4 others chimed in about how crappy they were.
Mine were warping every oil change so i just bought some drilled and slotted ones off ebay. Hasnt warped for 30,000 miles.
just keep in mind, if you put new rotors, you HAVE to get new pads as well. and if you get new pads, you should have your rotors re-surfaced. NEVER put new rotors with old pads.
Im looking for some input
I just changed the rims and tires on my car, and less than a day of driving the rotors appear to be warped. It vibrates under moderate braking but not light and not really heavy braking only noticeable at higher speeds between 50 and 70+. Im just wondering if I put on the new rotors is it just going to warp in a short period of time anyhow?
I just changed the rims and tires on my car, and less than a day of driving the rotors appear to be warped. It vibrates under moderate braking but not light and not really heavy braking only noticeable at higher speeds between 50 and 70+. Im just wondering if I put on the new rotors is it just going to warp in a short period of time anyhow?
Any and all brake work is not covered under the factory warranty. They are wear and tear items that depending on mileage a manager can make a judgement call and cover them. Same goes for clutches by the way.
The stockers suck no matter how you drive. If your still under warranty it's covered for them to reface them. But I would advise you to get some after market rotors and pads to save the aggravation and bearings.
Driving style (hard braking) and increased rolling mass (larger/heavier wheels and tires) are contributors to warping rotors. If you must hammer the brakes a lot, get into the habit of stopping short and creeping forward. Laying into the brake pedal and coming to a stop with the pedal still down and holding you still spot warps the rotors. By sloooowwwlly moving forward after braking to a stop (ie, for a stop light) you better distribute the heat over the rotor instead of with pressure at one place. Just an FYI from experience. YMMV.
Driving style (hard braking) and increased rolling mass (larger/heavier wheels and tires) are contributors to warping rotors. If you must hammer the brakes a lot, get into the habit of stopping short and creeping forward. Laying into the brake pedal and coming to a stop with the pedal still down and holding you still spot warps the rotors. By sloooowwwlly moving forward after braking to a stop (ie, for a stop light) you better distribute the heat over the rotor instead of with pressure at one place. Just an FYI from experience. YMMV.
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DANRICKARD
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Oct 1, 2015 12:08 AM



