Wobbeling
Wobbeling
Hi, i have a 2007 cobalt ls and my back end seems to wobbel back and forth like if i pass someone and make a quick turn, have any of you had problems with this and what can i do to fix it.
also i was wondering what springs should i put in to lower it some but not a lot. Because when i get rims i dont want a big gap but it snows here in minnesota so i woudnt want it to low.
is it just a little bit? can you turn the wheel just a little back and forth and feel like the rear end of the car is floating?
springs will help. new shocks would help a little too. a rear sway bar also helps.
I have a plan i'm thinking about, but i'm not sure if i'll do it for autocross reasons or not (it would move me up to street modified class, I think)
I'll draw up what i'm thinking and post it here.
this is really simplified, But it wouldn't be hard to do. all you would need is about 6 feet worth of 1" pipe, doesn't even have to be expensive stuff. a few small pieces of 1/8" steel plate and a few hours.

basically thats what the rear end looks like. the wheels are out on arms, something like 2 feet out. thats quite a bit of leverage that they have, and there isn't anything holding them still other than the stregnth of the arms, which are really just thin square tubes of cheap steel, not much real structure there.
Bwoody has a bar, I think they advertise it as a sway bar. for those of you who don't know how it works it basically connects the ends of the axle, making the whole unit into a connected rectangle shape. thats good, and would help hold the wheels together, one wouldn't be able to move without the other moving, but they could still move together and give a mushy ride.

My thought is very simple. just triangulate the pieces. it would give a lot of structure, a lot of extra stregnth and minimal weight. the only real downside is the autocross rules, they say you can't change the geometry of the suspension for most classes.
that combined with the bwoody bar would be an awesome rear end.
springs will help. new shocks would help a little too. a rear sway bar also helps.
I have a plan i'm thinking about, but i'm not sure if i'll do it for autocross reasons or not (it would move me up to street modified class, I think)
I'll draw up what i'm thinking and post it here.
this is really simplified, But it wouldn't be hard to do. all you would need is about 6 feet worth of 1" pipe, doesn't even have to be expensive stuff. a few small pieces of 1/8" steel plate and a few hours.
basically thats what the rear end looks like. the wheels are out on arms, something like 2 feet out. thats quite a bit of leverage that they have, and there isn't anything holding them still other than the stregnth of the arms, which are really just thin square tubes of cheap steel, not much real structure there.
Bwoody has a bar, I think they advertise it as a sway bar. for those of you who don't know how it works it basically connects the ends of the axle, making the whole unit into a connected rectangle shape. thats good, and would help hold the wheels together, one wouldn't be able to move without the other moving, but they could still move together and give a mushy ride.
My thought is very simple. just triangulate the pieces. it would give a lot of structure, a lot of extra stregnth and minimal weight. the only real downside is the autocross rules, they say you can't change the geometry of the suspension for most classes.
that combined with the bwoody bar would be an awesome rear end.
Last edited by denn454; Jul 21, 2007 at 05:05 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
eibach prolines are the only progressive rate springs out now. they run a little over $200.
I would say save some money and get the SSC springs from zzperformance. they are really good springs, and you'll save about $80. but they aren't progressive rate.
I would say save some money and get the SSC springs from zzperformance. they are really good springs, and you'll save about $80. but they aren't progressive rate.
If thats not anything you are concerned about then go aftermarket. Your best bet, and I wish I would have done this, is coil overs. Yeah, they are $1,000 BUT springs run around $200, then new struts will cost you about $600-$800. theres the cost of your coil overs right there. spend the money and do it right if you're going to do it.
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