I hate to be an askhole but i would rather ask a **** load of questions that do something stupid so here it is.

AEM came out w/ this F/IC right? As of now no tuning for the 2007 2.2L cobalt has come out what so ever. would it be a bust trying to use it or is there some hope in it? I have a 2007 Chevy Cobalt LS 2.2L MTX by the way

The F/IC has been tested and validated for the following applications:

* 03-06 Nissan 350Z / G35
* 04-07 Scion xA, xB tC M/T
* 04-07 Mazda 3 M/T
* 05-07 Chevy Cobalt
* 03-05 Toyota Celica GT-S
* 03-04 Toyota Matrix
* 03-04 Toyota Corolla
* All Honda K-Series M/T

KIT CONTENTS

* F/IC Module
* F/IC Tuner Software CD
* F/IC Bypass Harness
* 24" Flying Lead Harness
* 36" Vacuum Hose
* 3/16" T-Fitting
* 10' USB COM Cable
* 4 - 4" Zip Ties
* Instruction Manual

 

BUMP...typical cobaltss.net.....23 views and not one reply...

 

Its a piggy back like the SCT kit I would imagine! Honestly they are cracker jack tunes, not too much involved! The only way to know for sure is buy it dyno it and see what happens!

 

No one is getting back with ya cause they don't know anything about this kit. I didn't know anything either so I just googled it, got AEM site with some info, checked a bunch of vendors sites and found nothing.

I take it this is new? How about some links to info you have found?

Obviously, it is a piggyback system and since that is all that is available for the 2.2 right now it might be the right kit for you. Most people seem to like AEM as a manufacturer, so I would trust their stuff.

How much does the kit cost?
What kind of mods have you done to your engine?
What kind of knowledge do you need to be able to use it?

Sorry couldn't be any real help.

Hey, ESPN has the busch series on the road course in Canada. I hate nascar but sometimes it's fun to watch those hillbillies try to get those heavy monsters around a tight road course!

Randy
'05 Yellow SS/SC

 

http://gravanatuning.com/application...oller_AEM_F_IC

it cost about 440 bones but thats just one site. So far i just have an intake short throw, front and rear poly tranny mounts...wanting to turbo so exhaust will be 2.5" for now. after the turbo, internals such as crank, rods, pistons, head and stuff like that. It has a wiring harness so i imagine install would be easy. the can-bus system is not effected and will probably run it w/ a aem wideband and 2.2L interceptor.

 

Yeah, that kit looks good and seems like $440 isn't too bad a price. Not as adjustable as a full tune, but definately needed to get the most out of a turbo.

So what are the other 2.2 turbo guys doin now, and what do the turbo companies recommend for a tune on the 2.2?

I'd try reading more in the 2.2 performance section, maybe PM some of the guys who are running that setup to see what they are doing or recommend.

A 2.2 Balt with a built/turbo motor would sure be a sleeper! With nothing but wheels and sound to give the mods away, yeah!

Randy
'05 Yellow SS/SC

 

well...halfent suggests getting a reflash/tune with SCT (when released...their tune isnt a piggyback btw, its a reflash) to remove restrictions of the stock tune, such as possibly raising the rev limiter, removing speed limiter, deleting SAI, and so on, and then using the above F/IC to actually tune the combustion process to fit your vehicle

 

if there is a reflash/tune available there wouldn't be any point in getting a f/ic piggy back.

BTW, i have contacted SCT before and they dont plan on having a tune for the 07 cobalt. the 07 cobalt uses a different pcm than the earlier models

 

If I were you, I would only purchase it if I were going the forced induction route. Its used to tune air/fuel and pull timing under boost via skewed o2 signals.

This will not optimize your timing or air/fuel on a stock or bolt-on car.

I believe HPTuners is simply waiting for someone to send in a copy of the 07 2.2 flash to support since that model PCM is already supported.

See posts #6 and #7 here.

 

ya i plan on boosting. hopefully this will be done by mid 2008 except maybe the turbo

1. GM Performance Parts CNC ported cylinder head

2. GM Performance Parts adjustable cam gear set

3. GM Performance Parts camshaft set (so so on this for now)

4. GM Performance Parts neutral balance shaft set

5. Wiseco piston, pin, and ring set

6. Eagle connecting rods

7. Stage 3 clutch w/ flywheel

8. Garrett GT35R ball bearing turbocharger with water-to-air intercooler (might do air to air)

9. AEM F/IC



I think i would rather flash than piggy back, but i'm sure either way will work ok no?

 

Those cams will be a little too wild for the street and the stock ECM to handle.

If you end up building everything you stated, you'll be better off with a reflash to take advantage of a higher redline among other things.

 

cool...thanks man you've been a big help

what am i looking at for an a/fr?

 

The screenshot below is what you'll have control over with the AEM F/I Controller. Basically air/fuel tuning via o2 to balance fuel trims and eliminate PE delay, a fuel map vs. aftermarket MAP sensor which they provide to allow fueling when under boost, and an ignition map to pull timing while under boost.

Anything more that would be needed would have to be converted to a standalone or more advanced piggyback.



That's something that would have to be determined with a dyno and EGT gauge preferably. Most tuners aim for 12-1 while under boost.

 

What do you mean by that?

whats a good temp for the exhaust? AEM standalone good enough?

 

Torque management, ability to change throttle body sizes, idle speed, idle airflow parameters...pretty much everything else to support the modifications you listed.

Every engine is different with EGTs, but anything above 1400 and you're floating at alluminum melting points. A dyno will show what air/fuel mixtures make for best torque and your EGT probe will display what the safest/coolest air/fuel burns will be. Your tuner will hit a point where both come in line. Most engines its right around 12-1 air/fuel while under boost.

AEM standalone will not work with other components such as the throttle body and vehicle functionality such as airbags and gauges.

 

like what? I have front and rear poly mounts will i need to change those out or is that ok? and what else besides tires would i need for traction?

 

nothing else, unless you want to delve into your suspension as well...
the issue with the aem f/ic is that as stated, it is exactly what it is called...a fuel and ignition controller. it cannot change other values, such as what percent the throttle is open at idle to give a smooth idle. if theres more air going into the throttle at all RPMs, including idle, which would be the case if you upgraded to a larger throttle body or even changed out to a wide enough manifold with those ported intake ports. you would start seeing idle revs around 800RPM, which would make your ECU think there was an intake air leak and put your car into "limp mode", and the AEM f/ic wouldnt be able to fix that. likewise anything other than a very idle camshaft would do the same, or if the cams are geared for high end tq, then they might even limit air enough at idle to the point where your engine wont be able to idle at all, and will instead just die from oxygen (and thus fuel) deprivation. this is why the F/ic is really only appropriate for a boosted car with stock settings

i do like your build btw...makes me want some of that stuff

 

interesting...i'm screwed either way LOL...hopefully a tune will come out in the next century.

 

the F/IC would work for a turbocharged ecotec under stock conditions, such as a stock rev limiter, a stock camchaft, stock throttle body, and so on, so if you wanted, you could use it until tuning is released, and then throw in the rest of your build and tune to that, and re-tune the F/IC to the new requirements of ported parts and new cams...

 

Dude, if you searched, you would have had your answers a lot faster. The FIC would run your turbo setup just fine. but like said before, under otherwise stock conditions. If you get me a pinout for the 07 2.2, i can make you a diagram for the FIC to make it easier to install.

Honestly tho, you really need to find out what your power goal is because the FIC is not going to get you much past 300whp. If you plan on replacing stock injectors with larger ones, you will need to alter the fuel map by the % difference between the stock and larger injectors. If you look in the other thread about the FIC(search button FTW), i posted how to do so. You can then drive the car like it was stock with larger injectors. The problem you are going to run into is that if you want say 300whp, you will need 60lb injectors. The problem is, from 24 to 60lb injectors thats a 60% increase in fue. So what you would do is go into the Injector map and set a value of -60 in every cell of that map because you need to remove 60% fuel for the car to run like it did with the 24lb injectors. The thing im worried about is, thats a huge decrease in fuel, and when you have to reduce fuel by 60%, its questionable if the cars going to run properly. The way the FIC reduces the fuel is by altering the injector pulse width by the % in the corrisponding cells of the map. It will also do that with the o2 sensor if you choose to.

If you have any more questions about the FIC, let me know, i've done quite a bit of research and talked with AEM about it already.

 

I've seen videos of your cobalt and in all honesty i was not impressed. Alpine could have made a lot of power from a turbo and they failed horribly...it's not that i didn't do a search....i was just no at all impressed w/ your cobalt

 

Ok, how did this turn into a discussion of how my car performs?(which you really have no idea). I wasnt being a dick, i was just making sure you did a search because i know i have answered all your questions about the FIC already. Now do you really want help or are you just going to attack me when i try to help you get your car tuned properly?

What are your power goals. I have been researching the FIC for about 2+ months, along with other methods of tuning, to come out with a user friendly way to tune the 2.2.

 

fair enough....what is your suggestion?

 

Whats your power goal is the first thing. If your going for say 300whp(which seems to be the target for most guys on the forum) i would get some 60lb'ers, and set it up like i explained above by altering the fuel by 60%. Now if you want more then 300whp, i would recommend buying the Saab cast aluminum intake manifold and having injector ports installed into the runners. I would then throw some 42-60lbers in there and have them run as secondary injectors. Now the nice thing about the FIC is that it will add fuel through the secondary injectors at the same time as the primaries, which means accurate and proper fuel delivery. You would then tune it for speed density(MAP vs RPM).

Kinda busy at work right now, did i miss anything?

 

300 sounds good for now...i was thinking the 2.4L intake mani swap from CED...why saab?