GM stage 2 reflash SUCKS!!!!!
10-12-2007, 06:50 PM
#26
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if i can get over 240 out of a stage 2 car with simple tweeks here and there, in 100 degree heat. it's not hard.
simple rule of thumb. a car will run leaner on the street than it will on a dyno. you dial the afr in on the street, and get the timing close. then within three pulls on the dyno. you have it set. if it takes more than three pulls. you need to re-think you way of tuning.
a box stock stage 2 car i did here. in that same heat. put down 226 when it hit the rollers. in three pulls i got the car to 240 without doing anything major to it. just minor things here and there.
simple rule of thumb. a car will run leaner on the street than it will on a dyno. you dial the afr in on the street, and get the timing close. then within three pulls on the dyno. you have it set. if it takes more than three pulls. you need to re-think you way of tuning.
a box stock stage 2 car i did here. in that same heat. put down 226 when it hit the rollers. in three pulls i got the car to 240 without doing anything major to it. just minor things here and there.
10-12-2007, 07:03 PM
#28
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I wish I could say the same for the fuel tables I gave you, but time will tell, right?
10-12-2007, 07:17 PM
#29
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so your telling me that you trust the tiny fluctuations that 1-2 degrees of timing would give, to back off your timing....
when generally a dyno could give you 230hp one pull, and 240 the very next pull with no changes?
sorry man. but dynos arent nearly accurate enough to know when that extra degree or 2 of timing is starting to take away power. the margin of error is way larger than the degree of change you are talking about.
when generally a dyno could give you 230hp one pull, and 240 the very next pull with no changes?
sorry man. but dynos arent nearly accurate enough to know when that extra degree or 2 of timing is starting to take away power. the margin of error is way larger than the degree of change you are talking about.
simple rule of thumb. a car will run leaner on the street than it will on a dyno. you dial the afr in on the street, and get the timing close. then within three pulls on the dyno. you have it set. if it takes more than three pulls. you need to re-think you way of tuning.
10-13-2007, 07:22 AM
#30
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Once someone proves to me how that little 4 foot fan can simulate the air speed going in to the front of the vehicle as if they were tuning on the street at 170KHM, maybe then I might think dyno tunes are sufficient.
But mathematically, there is NO way that fan can blow that much wind (or it wouldn't be sitting still) in to the front of the car, and for the dyno to say you hit 200, you are definitely starving your car for air, which means YOUR TUNE CAN'T BE ACCURATE.
But mathematically, there is NO way that fan can blow that much wind (or it wouldn't be sitting still) in to the front of the car, and for the dyno to say you hit 200, you are definitely starving your car for air, which means YOUR TUNE CAN'T BE ACCURATE.
10-13-2007, 10:06 AM
#31
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Once someone proves to me how that little 4 foot fan can simulate the air speed going in to the front of the vehicle as if they were tuning on the street at 170KHM, maybe then I might think dyno tunes are sufficient.
But mathematically, there is NO way that fan can blow that much wind (or it wouldn't be sitting still) in to the front of the car, and for the dyno to say you hit 200, you are definitely starving your car for air, which means YOUR TUNE CAN'T BE ACCURATE.
But mathematically, there is NO way that fan can blow that much wind (or it wouldn't be sitting still) in to the front of the car, and for the dyno to say you hit 200, you are definitely starving your car for air, which means YOUR TUNE CAN'T BE ACCURATE.
10-13-2007, 12:02 PM
#36
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Yeah the car was in 2 different worlds after I got it tuned. Since the colder weather 70F it has really woken up. I know the numbers are low for a Stage 2 SS/SC but hey I plan on getting it dynoed again next weekend to see if the numbers are different. The GM tech that was trying to help me correct the fuel curves said it takes a little bit for the car to respond to any changes anyway. JMHZ2401 (john) really does know what he is talking about and has done many great things for the J-Body community(which is alot of cobalt owners now) and probably one of the very few I trust to even touch/drive my car.
10-13-2007, 01:34 PM
#37
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Brian thanks.
Last thing I have to say is people are going on and on about his numbers, but yet many (in this post) have stated dyno's are not accurate. SO what is the big deal then???? Really decide what wagon you want to be on.
Last thing I have to say is people are going on and on about his numbers, but yet many (in this post) have stated dyno's are not accurate. SO what is the big deal then???? Really decide what wagon you want to be on.
10-13-2007, 01:52 PM
#38
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i use the dyno as a tool. something you can not do with a butt dyno. it gives me a chance to see if the timing is ok, how the top end is doing. if you look at the dyno graphs, you can see where you need to add fuel, timing. or various combinations of this. how? look at the plot itself, it says it all.
will i do a base tune and final tune on a dyno? nope. will i do a final on it? yep. why? because you can see how far you can go with it, make a saftey window for various weather conditions. the car, and the owner is happy.
you can not tell me that someone would be happy if you suddenly pulled 20 hp out of your ass on a dyno. i know the owners of the cars i have tune have turned into little school girls when i do this.
will i do a base tune and final tune on a dyno? nope. will i do a final on it? yep. why? because you can see how far you can go with it, make a saftey window for various weather conditions. the car, and the owner is happy.
you can not tell me that someone would be happy if you suddenly pulled 20 hp out of your ass on a dyno. i know the owners of the cars i have tune have turned into little school girls when i do this.
10-13-2007, 04:52 PM
#39
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i use the dyno as a tool. something you can not do with a butt dyno. it gives me a chance to see if the timing is ok, how the top end is doing. if you look at the dyno graphs, you can see where you need to add fuel, timing. or various combinations of this. how? look at the plot itself, it says it all.
will i do a base tune and final tune on a dyno? nope. will i do a final on it? yep. why? because you can see how far you can go with it, make a saftey window for various weather conditions. the car, and the owner is happy.
you can not tell me that someone would be happy if you suddenly pulled 20 hp out of your ass on a dyno. i know the owners of the cars i have tune have turned into little school girls when i do this.
will i do a base tune and final tune on a dyno? nope. will i do a final on it? yep. why? because you can see how far you can go with it, make a saftey window for various weather conditions. the car, and the owner is happy.
you can not tell me that someone would be happy if you suddenly pulled 20 hp out of your ass on a dyno. i know the owners of the cars i have tune have turned into little school girls when i do this.
11-26-2007, 03:51 AM
#45
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DYNO TUNING SUCKS ASS..!!
Got Street Tune by Denny... and i pulled out 205WHP and 182WTQ with only a HP Tuner Tune and AEM Intake for the MAF Sensor and Filter..
tell me that Dyno Tuning is the best.. Yeah Right..!
Got Street Tune by Denny... and i pulled out 205WHP and 182WTQ with only a HP Tuner Tune and AEM Intake for the MAF Sensor and Filter..
tell me that Dyno Tuning is the best.. Yeah Right..!
11-26-2007, 11:52 AM
#46
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Thats not that great considering many stock cobalt ss/sc's where putting down near 215-220
