CSS Style aggressive fitment thread! Part 2
lol its gonna ride like that. my rears just throw me around. they were awesome with the teins on the rear....
but now they suck. for the cali ride im going softer up front so its less bouncy constantly
but now they suck. for the cali ride im going softer up front so its less bouncy constantly
I was thinking the same exact thing. All the heavily lowered Cobalts at this time are yellow with Spooled being the exception. I gotta hurry up and throw my car in thee to represent the black 'balts....oh, and rep sedans too.
Ok, and Ting. It's going to to take time. since i have not been able to put mine yet i've spent my time reading the paperwork that came with it. (like 700 times)
You can't just slap these on, slam the car and be done with it. apparently there is more to it. there are Damper knobs and all kinds of fine tuning knobs you have to adjust till you feel comfortable.
I guess putting them on and lowering them the way you like is only half the work. Check out the instruction again before coming to a final verdict, and make sure to let us know if the fine tuning made a difference or none at all.
Is there any hope in hell of getting a set of 18x10's under a Cobalt? I'm thinking about either Forgestar CF5's or F14's in gold, but you have to go to a 10" width to get the deep concave look. The shallow concave is HO HUM! lol. I'm thinking 255/35/18 tires.
lol absolutely no way. look at ff_drift_lol he has 10.5s in the rear and look at the camber in the rear. not gonna happen. especally with 255s. NEVER EVER!
Not a chance in hell lol. If you tubbed it, sure.
Mine is different than most, but my shock location is similar enough.
I did what Joshua suggested. Raise the car up, put it on jackstands. Place the jack under the spring cup, and raise it until there's juuuuuuuuuuust a slight pre-load on the spring. Then adjust the shock length so that when you lower the jack back down, the shock holds tension on the spring.
Mine are adjusted to full stiffness to prevent the car from bottoming out. Yours are so low, you have much less distance to travel. If it's bottoming out, it's bottoming out. I wouldn't suggest cutting any bumpstops, because they're there to protect things. Either raise it back up, or deal with the roughness. Sorry bro.
I don't know how low your car is, because you won't post pictures. It'd help give me an idea of what your issue is though.
I did what Joshua suggested. Raise the car up, put it on jackstands. Place the jack under the spring cup, and raise it until there's juuuuuuuuuuust a slight pre-load on the spring. Then adjust the shock length so that when you lower the jack back down, the shock holds tension on the spring.
Mine are adjusted to full stiffness to prevent the car from bottoming out. Yours are so low, you have much less distance to travel. If it's bottoming out, it's bottoming out. I wouldn't suggest cutting any bumpstops, because they're there to protect things. Either raise it back up, or deal with the roughness. Sorry bro.
I don't know how low your car is, because you won't post pictures. It'd help give me an idea of what your issue is though.
My shock is adjusted as short as it can be, and the damping is set to full stiff. It rides very well to be honest. Something must be up with yours. Can you take pics of the spring/perch etc. with the car on the ground, and full load on it?
Question. I didn't change my TPMS when i got the new wheels and tires. The guy tried in vain to convince me to upgrade i said no (they've never really been that accurate anyway) With my stock ones re-learn the tire pressure in these new wheels?



