2.2L L61 Performance Tech 16 valve 145 hp EcoTec with 155 lb-ft of torque

2.2 and cams

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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 04:43 AM
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cobalt_driver's Avatar
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From: buffalo/ny
2.2 and cams

alright. well with the new tune being available through clear image, a couple things that were concerns shouldn't be anymore. for instance, cams. it was difficult to tune for them if i recall. now, i'm new to tuning, and engines. i know basic things, but when it comes to the hard stuff forget it. if i went with a stage 2 cam, would that be overkill? with the cams i would buy valves n springs too to handle the new cams. so far, i would need,

the cams
valves n springs (might as well)
injectors maybe
the tune

that is what i have come up with. i was wondering if anyone else on here has a/m cams and what their approach was. and is it known the likely amount of hp n tq gain i would get? another ? that i have is, that there are stage 1, stage 2, stage 3, stage turbo, and stage blower. if i went with stage 1 or stage 2 and decided to turbo (which is what i will be doing) would i have to get the stage turbo cams or could i keep the stage 2 or stage 1.

i do DD my car, so i would probably get the stage 1. any thoughts? i'm calling out the big boys, Raven, Area, Witt, Halfcent...I need u guys. lol.

anyone?

nobody? nite crew help?

Last edited by cobalt_driver; Mar 27, 2008 at 04:43 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 05:31 AM
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Jn2
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lol, night crew, if i recall the stage 2 require tuningn right? cuz i was thinking of gettin the stage 1, which were advertised to run w/out tuning, but recomended it for added performance, idk, sorry, i think im the only on checking in on things this late at night
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 12:17 PM
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what the poster was asking is whether or not stage 2 cams would be overkill on a DD. at this point tuning is no longer an issue through clear image.

to answer the question, yes. that is if you're doing more daily driving then getting on it. with so respect to the differences between sticks and autos my car spends little time above 3k rpm on the daily runs and that's when those cams become effect and are good well past 7k. stage 1 cams will come on earlier giving you more low end power at lights and for urban passing but will top out earlier then the stage 2 cam and may very well be your best option.

i'm running spray so i am better able to use a cam like the stg 2 to build more power however i'd personally go with the stg 1 on my setup as well.
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 09:37 PM
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cobalt_driver's Avatar
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anyone else?

i really wanna know.

i know that the stage 1 can be run without tuning, but for maximum performance, i want it tuned. since clear image has come out with tuning (released soon) i don't think it will be a problem. but i wanna know what a stage 1 cam setup tuned will produce number wise.

also, i wanna know if i've taken all the precautions. like swapping the valves and valve springs and if i need to change the injectors. also, i wanna know if im missing anything.
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Old Mar 27, 2008 | 10:11 PM
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look on the cavi forums, there are tons of posts, for the most part (except 97 Z24s) you can do anything they can with a tune. look for 2.2s with cam swaps
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 02:29 AM
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the stock inj are good you'd need to change em out for boost.

oh, numbers wise you'd need to hit a dyno. you'll need all the usual bolt-ons first or the cams won't produce much.

Last edited by Spanky's Monkey; Mar 28, 2008 at 02:29 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 12:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Spanky's Monkey
the stock inj are good you'd need to change em out for boost.

oh, numbers wise you'd need to hit a dyno. you'll need all the usual bolt-ons first or the cams won't produce much.
okay. how hard are cams to install. i assume hard considering you have to tamper with the timing chain. i'm not sure if u'd have to advance or retard it to compensate though. n i have an intake now, but i plan on having my exhaust fairly soon. i'm going to take an ss/sc exhaust and put a new muffler on. basically its like having a dc at half the price. and when tuning comes out, i will have the SAI delete and have my header. so, i will have IHE, DP, highflow cat. so from those bolt-ons i'll prolly gain 15 whp at most. then having the tune idk bc NWA got i believe 11 whp n 7 wtq. which isn't bad. n then cams i estimate maybe 20 whp.

sooo 15+11+20= 46 whp. sooo figue 2.2's have like 130whp stock + 46 i'll have 176whp. sound right? strictly estimate.

idk though. i'm guestimating. someone said u gain 30+ whp from stage 1 cams tuned. i never saw a dyno sheet, n i'm not taking it to heart.
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Old Mar 28, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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M88ArRamadi's Avatar
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From: Chester, VA
the HP math doesn't work like that.....If it was the case....I would have almost 1000 HP . You have to compliment a mod with another mod for best results. Tuning will help bring out the HP/TQ with your current setup
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Old Mar 29, 2008 | 06:24 AM
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From: Bako CA
ive been reading... alot. stage 1's are good from 2500 - 6800 rpms (past stock redline), it all really depends on your rpm range your going for.. DDs will probably never see past 6500 rpm, so go with stage 1. the stage 1s are also in my future plans

but if you want to go all out and redline at 7500 rpms, go stage 2, but they'll kick in later... maybe 3500 or so. but if you want to redline at 7500 rpms, theres alot that needs replacing and upgrading.
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