I just completed all the plumbing for the dual pass +B and also added a cx racing h/e at the same time. Ive got the extra surge tank filled now but it wont draw down when i start the car and let it run. ive opened the bibb at the bottom of the new h/e and only get a dribble of dexcool. note that my air purge line is connected to the cx...not the stock h/e.

im concerned that if i run the car ill burn up the intercooler pump and overheat the sc. Help!

 

with the engine cold, leave the cap off the surge tank for a few minutes and start the car. don't leave it this way too long.

also, your air bleed line is connected to the aftermarket heat exchanger... put a second bleed line on the stock unit and use a t fitting to connect both bleed lines together.

 

this seems to be a common thread tennpenn. What do you advise this guy? Maybe not putting in a additional h/e right away would help these folks...this deal should be 100% every time i have had option b for ever never a problem

 

Well... adding a secondary heat exchanger is never a bad thing, but before i would ever have added another heat exchanger, I would have made sure the dual-pass, option b was working flawlessly. It's not that hard to go from option b to adding another heat exchanger, just a couple more hoses actually.

If I were the OP, I would do just that. Take the lines off the extra h/e and test the Option B only. Check for leaks and kinks in the hoses, check the i/c pump to make sure it's working, check the air bleed line to make sure nothing is blocking the route of air into the surge tank. After you've made sure that's working, then add the hoses to the extra h/e. Since there's only a couple more hoses to worry about, it shouldn't be any hassle.

Do not only have an air bleed line only routed to the Cobra. I would actually suggest running an air bleed line to both h/e's since they can both have air trapped in the top of the unit in a pocket that will always be there unless there is an air bleed line running to it.

My ultimate setup (which I should be running here pretty soon) is dual-pass w/ Option B (which I do have), secondary h/e, air bleed lines running to both, and an additional electric cooling fan mounted on the secondary h/e. Then down the road, meth.

 

just a thought what about a second pump instead of a fan...you need the pump to move the fluid more than you need a fan to cool when you are stopped....

good idea plastic t and common purge line to both h/e i would guess the stock one has an air pocket..see the rodimus prime thread on option b lot of people with good ideas and a fuse box diagram for a pump jumper

 

question, i have the dual pass with option b installed on my car, the first 2 days i had water coming out the bleeder line to the reservoir but now i dont, btw the pump is working, is this normal?

 

Lets Do Some More Dual Pass!

 

pump jumper... lol

I would go more so with the fan for the reason of absolutely no airflow over the heat exchanger when sitting still/idling. Wire it in to run at 100% whenever the car is on. You have to think, all 3 radiators are sandwiched together - Engine radiator, intercooler, ac condensor with the fans on the backside of the engine radiator. This allows all 3 cores to get the air pulled through all of them by the fans.

A second pump would be beneficial, if only to relieve some of the duty from the stock pump. But that pump, with extra fluid flowing through the h/e's would really not do much good if you don't cool down the second h/e as well.

Do you not have that .040" restrictor in the air bleed line?

 

yes i do have the restictor, could that mean that i dont have any air in the system?

 

How much coolant is in the additional surge tank? How long has it been since the install and have you had any other similar problems?

 

its been installed for a week now and the coolant level is at the middle line ,i top it off like twice in the first 2 days

 

if it gives no more problems then I think you'd be alright. might be a good idea to keep an eye on it though

 

i check the level every day and i hadnt changed since.

 

Yeah, keep an eye on it. Mine never did that..

 

i checked the bleed line for kinks and disconected the hose to see if i had anything plugging the .040 orifice and everything was fine the heat exchanger was full and started dripping from the nipple,so i connectec everything back up, jumped the pump and i had coollant thru the bleeder hose for a few seconds and then it stopped,i think my system is air free.

 

bump for shaun!

 

ive never disconnected the ic pump through the process so i have no reasonto think thats a problem.

ive checked every hose to make sure there were no krimps and even got alot of preformed tubing to make sure.

the existing h/e is no longer the highest point in the system so i dont understand why i need a purge at both. isnt that the point of option B?

One thought i had is that because the new h/e needs so much coolant to fill it that i should drop it and fill that through the cap and then try again. this would get me 75% air free. the pump may just be pushing nothing but air right now since i spilled alot of coolant [on me] through the process.

 

you would need to bleed both heat exchangers as both would have a pocket of air trapped that needs to get out.

 

creepySS is good; your description fits. That little air bleed line spits like a baby for a couple of minutes, then settles down and your level should stay in the middle no problem. Quad44 listen to Tenn penn good advice... sounds like Rodimus has a kinked hose to many miles of hoses, and quad44 has a little more work to do and then all is good. M dub will eventually see the light...or not

 

lol thanks bud. dual pass is definitely not worthless or a waste of money as some would say. it is a very good, effective mod if done right.