Fujita intake has been around for quite some time and prob the best 3inch intake on the market, sure theres others out there but they either include lousy filters, look like crap, or cost far too much. This has pretty much everything you need and for the quality the price cannot be beat.

I got a pretty killer deal on it in Karo's GP post for www.allecotec.com https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/supporting-vendor-deals-group-purchases-133/fujita-intake-killer-deal-free-s-h-fast-shipping-%3D-happy-members-105012/

Anyways onto the pics and tips

First step you will need to get the old intake off, the stock intake comes off the Throttle body (far left in the pic) with a regular flat head screwdriver, same deal on the other end before it goes into the fenderwell. The crankcase hose clamp can be taken off with needlenose or some other form of pliers.


Contents of the box, comes in a big orange happy box, complete with NOS! Well I gave that part of it away, cant stand the stuff.


You will need to jack up the drivers side, or lift whatever you have to get under the front fender. You will need to take off the 7mm bolts on the fender. There should be 3 of them on the fender and another 3 on the bottom of the front of the front bumper, theres also a plastic clip on the fender liner that you will need to get off. After that you can just kinda peel back and place against the tire, that will keep it out of your way for what you need to do on the install.


Theres 3 bolts on the stock intake box in the fender 10mm I believe, they are kinda hard to get to.



I opted for the injen hydrosheild, these are available upon ordering also. Its pretty cheap, I never had water issues and I perfer to keep it that way. I know alot of ppl that do have issues. For 25 bucks or whatever its stupid not to get it and its a perfect fit.


Before removing the lower section of the Airbox you will need to unplug the MAF sensor


You will need to unscrew the MAF sensor out of the stock intake and use the supplied screws and allen wrench with the new intake. Be very careful with the MAF and try to not touch the part that goes into the pipe at all.


Heres the part you REALLY need to pay attention to if you want to avoid any type of fender rub. The shock mount screws onto the stock location. If you simply bolt the lower section right onto this, you WILL have fender rub this is because the pipe angle is too far against the fender. There are two ways to fix this, first is simply do not bolt the lower section of the intake to this fitting. Option 2 is to use the supplied piece of metal bracket that extends the mounting point towards the front of the car and away from the fender liner. I didnt bolt mine up to anything and I've had zero issues.



After you decided what to do with the bottom section you will need to connect the upper part of the pipe in the engine bay. I'd suggest only doing the bottom clamp onto the coupler first, reason being you need to carefully angle the upper section in the engine bay so that it does not rub on the bumper support or on the PCM, if you do it correctly it will not rub anything. A 11mm racheting wrench REALLY comes in handy with the supplied T-Clamps. The T-Clamps are another nice touch in this kit, none of those cheap ass worm clamps that rust up and look like crap.


After angling the upper section to where its not rubbing bumper or PCM your pretty much, you can just tighten up all the clamps after that. It looks killer



NO FENDER RUB!


Harrop Friendly Also, for those of you with Harrops or planning on getting one, this will work perfectly with it!



DYNO TIME!


Initial dyno with nothing more than gm stage 2 and Ingalls 218hp 198tq (before)
Stock everything Stage 2, Ingalls and Fujita 224hp 205tq (after)

A consistent 6whp gain throughout the powerband was noticed and 9 ft lbs for the majority of the powerband, both dyno runs had extremely high intake temps 160-200 degrees so boost cut, cat overtemp protection and other demons were causing problems.

Further information, there was no change in boost levels other than the consistent gains throughout the powerband the real change is sound. This thing will scream from 2k all the way to redline and its LOUD. I've been in other cars with Injens, AEM airbox mods, and the K&N and the whine is nowhere close to this thing.

I could not be happier with the purchase or the product. Thanks Karo!

 

wow. definately a sweet write up.

 

those dyno numbers seem low or is it just me?

 

Depends on the type of dyno he used.

 

good write up. Allecotec throws in a free bottle of NOS thats pretty cool. They should sell it on their site looked around for ages for it in a plastic bottle.

 

Nice Numbers
I Convinced..i Want A Fujita Intake

 

About time someone shows a decent how to on this. Smart people always modd other things to make things work. Good job.

 

The dyno numbers were low because my IAT was at 170-200 degrees

 

take off the hydroshield and dyno again.

nice work though.

 

Keep up the great work Matt.

We have 6 LSJ Fujita Intakes in Stock!

If you are interested in one, just send me a PM or e-mail and I will get you the LOWEST price shipped to you!

 

I keep thinking the factory intake might be the weak link in my system.

 

From what i see of your setup most likely