hii

i changed my clutch.... since i changed i been having alot off problems with my tranny. i installed a exhedy stage 1 clutch and fidanza flywheel. do i have to change the slave cylinder when i change the clutch or just when is necesary?

- some times 1st and reverse gets very hard..

- i need to push the pedal right to the buttom so i can shift into a gear.

- some times when im driving in 3rd gear and i am engine bracking it pops but it self without i touching it

- when i race and the car is in 6000 6500 rps and i want to shift to 2nd gear i cant it grinds just in high rps


i am going to drop the tranny againg and chech the clutch, change the oil and check the slave cilinder, i was thinking that probably the syncronizer ring is the problem but i dont know.

please if you know what is the problem let me know please so i can check it when i drop the tranny cause i dont want to drop it and put it back and that the problem stell there.



sorry if i am not good writting, i am mexican lol

 

there is air in the hydralics. the clutch should release mid height, if its releasing on the floor its a hydrallic issue. i myself would try bleeding it first.

 

First off, I would have changed the slave cylinder / tob assembly while I had it apart. They are rather prone to failure, cheap insurance for the price.

1st and reverse are hard to engage on mine as well, seems to be a common enough problem. Combined with having to push the clutch all the way down to shift and grinding on high rpm shifts, I'll agree with Sharkey - bleed the system, should help. Much easier than pulling the tranny again

Popping out of gear is likely a sign that the cables need to be adjusted, the gear is not being fully engaged and it will pop out of gear when you unload the drive train (engine braking). Should be a thread in the "How To" section that will help out.

 

First and reverse are always a pain in the ass at times.

Anyways, yeah, do a thorough bleed procedure first prior to dropping the trans again.

If it still continues, it may possibly be the master cylinder... and then I'd say look at the throw out bearing.

 

bleed the slave

correct the shift linkage

 

witch cables need to be adjust man?

 

Might want to check the pin at the trans end of the cable too (where the cable connects to the arm on the trans), they are notorious for breaking and causing all sorts of odd shifting problems.

Not too sure on the adjustment on these cars, used to working on top loaders or solid linkages
IIRC the rh cable (at the shifter) handles the front/back input from the lever, the lh cable handles the left/right, not sure if the console has to come out or if you just need to remove the shift boot to access.

Would have to unclip the lock, slide the threaded bit 1 notch forward (or backward), lock it down again and try it. If it is worse, go 2 notches the other way and try it again.

 

Exactly what I did and it worked out great.

Just remember how you took it apart,lol.