If you are autocrossing a Cobat SS S/C (don't know if others are affected), you may want to replace your steering knuckles.

I was at an autocross event today and some of the GM Tech Center employees were autocrossing some GM Corporate vehicles. There were two or three solstice's and one Cobalt SS S/C. Well, after about 6-7 runs, the Cobalt comes around a sharp left turn that immediately transitions into a right and right after the transition, the left front of the Cobalt dropped. The wheel was completely caved into the fender and had to be moved off of the course on wheel dollies. The GM employees said that they knew it would probably not last.

I know that GM is offering steering knuckles for competition use for the Cobalt, which should be much stronger than stock. I will post the GM document ASAP that describes the competition knuckle, but I have to find it.

ive heard this could be a problem, do you know if it is also an issue with the ls models? why would gm release a so called sports compact that cant take the abuse they know its gonna have to endure. well 2 1/2 years till i trade up anyway, hopefully itll make it.

http://www.alldata.com/tsb/General-Motors/1141372800000_1142582400000_06-03-08-001A/80011.html

doesn't specify cobalt ss/sc tho....

This actually might be a blessing in disguise for autocrossers who are looking to stay in the stock classes and obtain as much negative camer as possible. It looks like the replacement knuckle will allow for as much as -2.25 degrees of negative camber. Does anyone know how much is available in the original knuckle?

At any rate, for those that are driving competitively, this is definitely something to look into not just for a performance advantage, but also for safety.

Redwing excellent info, thanks:twothumbs

im pretty sure if you have your knuckles replaced you cant stay in the stock class. the scca doesnt care if gm suggests they be replaced, as far as theyre concerned its not a stock suspension piece and therefore not elegible for stock class. the only changes you can make is a change of shocks(when theyre released), catback, an alternate air filter element, and wheels of the same size and offset.

I noticed this info awhile back in GM Service Info. I attempted to get info from GM on price and avail., but they had no info and the #'s weren't any good at the time. This was about 1.5 months ago, though.

im pretty sure if you have your knuckles replaced you cant stay in the stock class. the scca doesnt care if gm suggests they be replaced, as far as theyre concerned its not a stock suspension piece and therefore not elegible for stock class. the only changes you can make is a change of shocks(when theyre released), catback, an alternate air filter element, and wheels of the same size and offset.


You can also change the front stabilizer bar!

besides the ability of possible larger avalible suspension changes in camber and such whats so differant about these then the stockers?

I ask this becasue i've broken my rite front whell hub...it brooke for a a un-known reason so are these made any differant?

im pretty sure if you have your knuckles replaced you cant stay in the stock class. the scca doesnt care if gm suggests they be replaced, as far as theyre concerned its not a stock suspension piece and therefore not elegible for stock class. the only changes you can make is a change of shocks(when theyre released), catback, an alternate air filter element, and wheels of the same size and offset.

In re-reading my 2006 rule book, and this has been pretty consistent for as long as I've been autocrossing, this modification would be allowed if it were simply re-worded. Since the words "for competitive purposes" appears in the TSB, it would NOT be allowed under SCCA Stock Class Solo rules (unfortunately!)

John Heinricy, if you're reading this, have that wording changed in the TSB to something like "heavy-duty replacement" so that it would be a legal stock class change :twothumbs .

I noticed this info awhile back in GM Service Info. I attempted to get info from GM on price and avail., but they had no info and the #'s weren't any good at the time. This was about 1.5 months ago, though.

Do you happen to have the part numbers?

same knuckles used in the pontiac/saturn roadsters ?

anybody know how or why it might be stronger than stock?

Do you happen to have the part numbers?
88958710=LH knuckle
88958711=RT knuckle

I will check into these some more to see if they exsist yet.

perhaps it's stronger because initially it was never imagined the car would be used in this type of every day driving scenario until they decided to make this up to handle the issues people might be having with them in a non-autocross situation

Just checked, the #'s are not on file, but are avail. from source and stock is avail. (the dealer needs to call Partec for avail.) The cost, ouch, but maybe worth it for the strength. List is $335 each, cost would be around $300 each.

This actually might be a blessing in disguise for autocrossers who are looking to stay in the stock classes and obtain as much negative camer as possible. It looks like the replacement knuckle will allow for as much as -2.25 degrees of negative camber. Does anyone know how much is available in the original knuckle?

At any rate, for those that are driving competitively, this is definitely something to look into not just for a performance advantage, but also for safety.


...the steering knuckles don't affect the alignment. Those are the stock alignment specs for the SS/SC...not something that is changed by steering knuckles. It says that in the bulletin if you read through it (I actually had to read it twice to get that though)...something to the effect of to inform about the availability of the knuckles and to inform those interested in the proper alignment specs for the car.

im pretty sure if you have your knuckles replaced you cant stay in the stock class. the scca doesnt care if gm suggests they be replaced, as far as theyre concerned its not a stock suspension piece and therefore not elegible for stock class. the only changes you can make is a change of shocks(when theyre released), catback, an alternate air filter element, and wheels of the same size and offset.

how would scca know if you have changed them? i mean couldnt you change them, and still say it was stock? i dont know how they inspect the car, but i wouldnt think they would go and look to see if they are stock or not, and it isnt like the new gm ones have like aftermarket knuckle written on them..... again i have never auto x'd before, so i dont know how scca would find out...???

how would scca know if you have changed them? i mean couldnt you change them, and still say it was stock? i dont know how they inspect the car, but i wouldnt think they would go and look to see if they are stock or not, and it isnt like the new gm ones have like aftermarket knuckle written on them..... again i have never auto x'd before, so i dont know how scca would find out...???

At any SCCA sancitoned autocross, there is what is known as "impound", where fellow competitors can examine each other's car for conformity to the rules. If a competitor's car is found to be in violation of the rules, a protest can be filed and the results for that competitor can be disqualified. Usually these impounds do not happen at the local level, and for the most part, locally, the guys who are winning may not care if you are running a part that is "for competitive purposes", but at bigger national events, that is something that will get protested without a second though.

As far as any alignment advantages, as fastSS06 pointed out, there is none to be had. I mistakenly thought the steering knuckle would have been the entire hub.

GMP ST racing team uses grand am knuckles and hubs up front and Grand Hubs only in the rear (not sure about the rear if it is just hubs). then they redrill the rotors to fit. this was also seen on the show tuner challenge for the time attack build.

is this the same part? is the hub strong enough for competition? GM lead me to believe the grand am hubs were better?

another thing is wheels are no longer useful but if you want a specific rim now there is far more available in the grand am bolt pattern

At any SCCA sancitoned autocross, there is what is known as "impound", where fellow competitors can examine each other's car for conformity to the rules. If a competitor's car is found to be in violation of the rules, a protest can be filed and the results for that competitor can be disqualified. Usually these impounds do not happen at the local level, and for the most part, locally, the guys who are winning may not care if you are running a part that is "for competitive purposes", but at bigger national events, that is something that will get protested without a second though.

As far as any alignment advantages, as fastSS06 pointed out, there is none to be had. I mistakenly thought the steering knuckle would have been the entire hub.

right, but i really doubt anybody would know the difference between a stock knuckle and the replacement

right, but i really doubt anybody would know the difference between a stock knuckle and the replacement

You would be surprised at National Level events just how much your fellow competitors know. In this example, someone will know exactly what the part numbers are for the replacements and actively look for it at impound.

Put a call in to GM found out that the steering knuckles do indeed exist for the right and left front at $270.00 each..!!! It probably requires disassembly by a press and hub puller as well. Doing more research now on these.

Anyone hear anything else on this or have a knuckle blow out on them?

Anyone hear anything else on this or have a knuckle blow out on them?


Well, I spent the whole weekend at the track auto-xing .... and no issues here. Made a 65 mile trip back home as well.

I still have thought about getting them this fall just in case....lol

Well, I spent the whole weekend at the track auto-xing .... and no issues here. Made a 65 mile trip back home as well.

I still have thought about getting them this fall just in case....lol

Good to hear. I plan to give mine a work out Aug. 5th and 6th. I'll prolly make the switch just in case too, being in PA, hopefully not until the weather turns this winter.

I'm a big auto-x fan but this thread scares me, I dont need to ruin a new car. Has anyone had this mod done? If so how much is labor? If you haven't had it done, any problems auto-xing?

I tend to think the knuckle that was seen broken was on a car that was setup to run auto-x's meaing suspension tuning, stickier tires etc. Which would mean to me that more force was being put on that knuckly anyway. I'm wondering if you run stock, or close to stock if the problem exists at all.

MY guess is the bearing will start to go WAY beofre it has catastrophic failure. You should be doing a cursory bearing check if you autocross anyways. Jack up car grab wheel see if there is any oscillation or wheel play. If it is, the bearings are going.

Otherwise it should be relaitively safe for occasional autocross/track day play.

I'm a big auto-x fan but this thread scares me, I dont need to ruin a new car. Has anyone had this mod done? If so how much is labor? If you haven't had it done, any problems auto-xing?

I tend to think the knuckle that was seen broken was on a car that was setup to run auto-x's meaing suspension tuning, stickier tires etc. Which would mean to me that more force was being put on that knuckly anyway. I'm wondering if you run stock, or close to stock if the problem exists at all.
id say if youre running a street tire class this shouldnt be a huge issue because you simply dont have the stickyness to break the knuckle. but damn i love hoosiers.

I have to agree with that one, but I'm checking my bearings tonight when I rotate the tires


I've not done it that much, but you can't be too careful

I have to agree with that one, but I'm checking my bearings tonight when I rotate the tires


I've not done it that much, but you can't be too careful

I'm a big auto-x fan but this thread scares me, I dont need to ruin a new car. Has anyone had this mod done? If so how much is labor? If you haven't had it done, any problems auto-xing?

I tend to think the knuckle that was seen broken was on a car that was setup to run auto-x's meaing suspension tuning, stickier tires etc. Which would mean to me that more force was being put on that knuckly anyway. I'm wondering if you run stock, or close to stock if the problem exists at all.

Trust me. The Cobalt SS/SC that broke the steering knuckle was bone stock right down to the tires. Nothing aftermarket on the thing. It was a GM vehicle, so they could not mod it if they wanted to.

I kinda stole this from the *cough*RL Forums*cough* but thought it was crucial enough that it needed to be posted.

Bulletin # 06-03-08-001B (6/16/06) Availability of Steering Knuckles for Comp. Use

This bulletin is being updated to add models and model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-08-001A (Section 03 - Suspension).

05-07 Chevy Cobalt
05-07 Pontiac Pursuit
04-07 Ion, Ion Redline

This is to advise owners who intend to use their vehicles for competitive driving, of the availability of alternate steering knuckles, and to provide recommended alignment specifications for those owners who use their vehicles for competitive driving. These steering knuckles are available through GM service parts and are suggested for use on the Cobalt (Pursuit)/ION Redline. Refer to the Parts Information below for ordering instructions.

The following alignment settings provide for even tire wear in competitive driving.

Please use the following alignment specifications for competitive driving only:

Camber
Front
-1.5 .75 deg.

Rear
-1.5 .75 deg.

Caster
Front
3.65 .75 deg.

Toe
Front
.20 .5 deg.

Rear
.25 .5 deg.


Part # 88958710 LH Knuckle
88958711 RH Knuckle

dang i really wanted to take mine auto x-ing but im worried now...the knuckles + labor isnt in the budget anytime too soon

has anyone really had this happen to them?

GM PART # 88958710
CATEGORY: Steering Knuckle
PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $335.71
OUR PRICE: $244.40

From gmpartsdirect.com

so yeah..about $500 for parts + labor.

GM PART # 88958710
CATEGORY: Steering Knuckle
PACK QTY: 1 CORE CHARGE: $0.00
GM LIST: $335.71
OUR PRICE: $244.40

From gmpartsdirect.com
Darn, now I have to spend more money. I will I hide this mod from the wife?
Thanks for the info. I guess I best order these soon.

Yeah it is dissapointing to see this since I finally met some new people that regularly do Autocross and Time Attack events.

Hmmmmmm


I've done about 5 Auto-X's so far this year and have 4 more coming up.

I've not had any problems yet. I will most likely order those parts over the winter JUST IN CASE I need them for next season.

I've not had anyone ask any questions as of yet to the mods that are or are not done to the car. Not sure how NATS work for SCCA as far as inspection goes, but I haven't seen where any of the guys are checking THAT close on things. More a safety inspection and obvious class infringements, like CAI ( if in stock class ) and those kinds of things.

Looks like next year, I'll be running in Street Mod ( SM ) anyway, so won't matter.

I would adivse to not change the steering knuckles unless it is a track only car. The alingment will be very aggressive, which is great for the track but will eat your tires alive on the street. They are released for competition use.

Well, that's something to consider as well... never thought of that.
THANKS!

That is just GM's recomended track only alignment. I'm sure you could get it aligned to stock specs with the new knuckles.

If you are autocrossing a Cobat SS S/C (don't know if others are affected), you may want to replace your steering knuckles.

I was at an autocross event today and some of the GM Tech Center employees were autocrossing some GM Corporate vehicles. There were two or three solstice's and one Cobalt SS S/C. Well, after about 6-7 runs, the Cobalt comes around a sharp left turn that immediately transitions into a right and right after the transition, the left front of the Cobalt dropped. The wheel was completely caved into the fender and had to be moved off of the course on wheel dollies. The GM employees said that they knew it would probably not last.

I know that GM is offering steering knuckles for competition use for the Cobalt, which should be much stronger than stock. I will post the GM document ASAP that describes the competition knuckle, but I have to find it.The dscca had a autoxschool and there was a red cobalt with some GM tech center guys learning. I was there and i seen it all i was a instructor and corner 5 capt. they went over the crest of a small hill in the lot and over that hill was a 180. the driver came over the hill and turned the wheel to full right lock before the front tires were on the ground. and when they hit the car still went around the corner but when they hit the slalom the wheels were pointing weird. i have pics of the car, the knuckle snaped in many places around the bearing.:cool:

The dscca had a autoxschool and there was a red cobalt with some GM tech center guys learning. I was there and i seen it all i was a instructor and corner 5 capt. they went over the crest of a small hill in the lot and over that hill was a 180. the driver came over the hill and turned the wheel to full right lock before the front tires were on the ground. and when they hit the car still went around the corner but when they hit the slalom the wheels were pointing weird. i have pics of the car, the knuckle snaped in many places around the bearing.:cool:
Do you think you could post those up?

I too would be interested in seeing this.

I hope that GM is doing something about strengthing these parts on the stock pieces as well. If the upgraded ones are not good for the street... that kinda sucks for us using these as DDs.

Do you think you could post those up?trying to get them off my phone onto the net.

I cant get the pics from saved on my to on line

so what about on cars that don't really go to the track that often (it says not recommended). if a part is made stronger for track use then why would it not be recommended for street use... do the mean the alignment that's not recommended or is it the part??? wouldnt a camber kit fix the problem???

i need to look into this

So has anyone actually had there knuckles fail on them? Sounds pretty stupid of the driver to crank the steering wheel in one direction while still in the air, also that isn't somthing anyone at an autocross would normally be able to do. I don't think I have ever been to an actual autocross that had a parking lot with a bump to get airborn off of.

Ok.. checked into the CLASSING issue for the SS if you replace the knuckels with this part.

So far the general consensus is that if you replace these and plan on running in DS... you cannot since it's listed as a Competition part. This would throw you into SM or DSP depending on what else you've done to your car.

I might buy them over the winter just to have in case I need them, and if I move into other classes.

Wow, i think ill get my butt handed to me in SM open class:(...but thx for that info on the knuckles...good to know

warning to autoX a lancer evolution will beat you

:lol: warning to autoX a lancer evolution will beat you:lol:

i've seen evo vs. sti comparisons where they showed that the evo mr actually beat the lamborghini mercialago (spelling?) on the track so if you try to autoX against one of those :thumbsdow (unless you're using the one GM built for autoX they did a lot of suspension work but i was able to beat the evo.

I am currently in contact with SCCA technical officials trying to figure out if the steering knuckles will be ok for use and stay in the stock class.

I am under the impression that the only way for them to allow them in stock class is because of a safety issue from the stock knuckles breaking easily or try to get GM to change the wording in their TSB so that it does not say for competition use in it anywhere.

I sent the technical director of solo (autocross), Doug Gill, a copy of GM's TSB and have asked him if they are allowed in stock class. And if they are not, I also asked him what needs to be done to get them allowed in stock class.

I will update as I get more information.

To me this sounds like GM has a problem and is just trying to avoid a recall on a deffictive part and or a poor choice on a part that was not strong enough to begin with. What I would like to call fun or agressive street drive could end with the same results, infact it may be more of a problem due to the poor conditions of some public roads. GM designed a beautiful car and made the mistake of putting a part on it that is not capable of sustaining the forces put on it. I think GM needs to accept responsiblity and say we made a mistake and have a recall on the part, it is a safety thing. The car is just being driven the way GM wanted to market it!!

To me this sounds like GM has a problem and is just trying to avoid a recall on a deffictive part and or a poor choice on a part that was not strong enough to begin with. What I would like to call fun or agressive street drive could end with the same results, infact it may be more of a problem due to the poor conditions of some public roads. GM designed a beautiful car and made the mistake of putting a part on it that is not capable of sustaining the forces put on it. I think GM needs to accept responsiblity and say we made a mistake and have a recall on the part, it is a safety thing. The car is just being driven the way GM wanted to market it!!

I agree. Thats why I should go drive really hard and break my knuckles. Then I'll get it in for warnity work and ask for the upgraded ones, I'll pay the differance. Maybe I can do this, lol would be sweet.

I agree. Thats why I should go drive really hard and break my knuckles. Then I'll get it in for warnity work and ask for the upgraded ones, I'll pay the differance. Maybe I can do this, lol would be sweet.


Didn't you say the ones that broke were for R&D? I still want to see the people that have actually had they knuckles brake.

I have not heard of any member here that was autocrossing and broke them on their personal car. There is a guy on the suspension page that says his were bent from autocrossing and had to get his replaced. Sorry I can't remember his name.

I could have sworn that I made another post about this but yea I have read that guys post and I find it hard to beleave that you can bend a cast aluminium piece and at an autocross at that.

http://www.scca.com/_FileLibrary/File/07-02-fastrack.pdf

Check page 10, tech bulletin #5

Check page 10, tech bulletin #5

5) Stock: the Technical Service Bulletin# 06-06-04-051 regarding engine recalibration (i.e. an ECU reflash) of the Z0K Solstice
and Cobalt SS is not legal for Stock category use since it is specified for competition purposes and thus does not meet the requirements
of sections 13.0, 12.4, and 3.8.A (ref. 06-337).
The competition-only steering knuckles for the Cobalt, G5, and ION, as specified in Service Information Document #1864485,
also do not meet the requirements of the Stock category (ref. 03-363).

For quick reference.

Good info, thanks for the heads-up!! I will definitely be getting these.

same knuckles used in the pontiac/saturn roadsters ?

Well from what I read it was to be replaced with Grand am knuclkes and bearings and the bolt circle then changes to 114.5. then you need rims. but that is good news if you in the market for rims anyway. there is lots to choose from with that bolt pattern

I wonder what that re-flash they declare illegal is??

I wonder what that re-flash they declare illegal is??

Here it is I looks like it disables the abuse mode in the engine management.

This is to advise owners who intend to use their 2.4L LE5 engine-equipped vehicle in competitive driving environments under high ambient temperature conditions and/or high loads for extended periods of time of the availability of an engine calibration that will allow the engine to operate at full power under these conditions. This calibration in no way alters the power output of the engine under normal operating conditions. When using this calibration, full synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5W30 or the equivalent) is required

Gm is so gay first they put in crap axles and now the steering knuckles suck too.

Im not autocrosser, but wouldnt the K&N Drop In Filter your using disqualify you from the "stock" class Redwing?

If so...You sir...are a cheater! :P

Im not autocrosser, but wouldnt the K&N Drop In Filter your using disqualify you from the "stock" class Redwing?

If so...You sir...are a cheater! :P

actually you can delete the entire stock intake and be legal for stock class, drop in filters are ok, some regions allow a cai and some dont. catback exhaust is legal, and new shocks as long as the perch is in the same place as oem. other stuff is legal but those are the biggies.

Here it is I looks like it disables the abuse mode in the engine management.

This is to advise owners who intend to use their 2.4L LE5 engine-equipped vehicle in competitive driving environments under high ambient temperature conditions and/or high loads for extended periods of time of the availability of an engine calibration that will allow the engine to operate at full power under these conditions. This calibration in no way alters the power output of the engine under normal operating conditions. When using this calibration, full synthetic oil (Mobil 1 5W30 or the equivalent) is required

Gm is so gay first they put in crap axles and now the steering knuckles suck too.


Nothing wrong with my steering knuckles and I have yet to see anyone actually break them.

Nothing wrong with my steering knuckles and I have yet to see anyone actually break them.

that is good news.

actually you can delete the entire stock intake and be legal for stock class, drop in filters are ok, some regions allow a cai and some dont. catback exhaust is legal, and new shocks as long as the perch is in the same place as oem. other stuff is legal but those are the biggies.

Everything that I've read in the rulebook so far ( and everyone I've talked to in our SCCA Region ) has stated that ONLY the drop in filter is legal. No changes to the stock air box or intake system are allowed. CAI's will throw you into an ST class. STS for N/A motored cars, and STX for the SC guys.

Yes, cat-backs are ok, as long as the rest of the exhuast is still stock. No header, no cat-deletes, and no GM Extrude Honed exhuast manifold. You might get by locally with some of this, but try a tour event, or Nats, and you will get nailed.

From what I've taken from the rules as well, the rear shocks are allowed just as you stated... as long as they are stock STYLE... non-adjustable.
A shock like the Koni Yellow inserts are ok in stock as long as you sleeve the stock strut.

Pretty much, nothing else is really allowed changed major parts wise.

Brake pads
Fulid
Tires ( DOT-R-comps )
plus you can use a slight spacer for the wheels to gain more room ( up to a 1/4" )

My knuckle broke about a week and a half ago in my rally race, aaaaand gm voided my warranty. Im a little angry.

well it broke racing... what you expect.
My friends did a few weeks back while he was just driving (taking a rh turn) car went straight across the street and over a curb, GM refused warranty work, and he ended up paying $2400 out of pocket since for some reason his insurance wouldn't cover the damage either.... fucked up IMO.

Gm can suck my ass. They know they screwed up making the knuckles too weak, Was there any other damage?

yeah broken axle, cracked the tranny, f'd up the fender and front lip, ripped the brake line, and a few other things

My knuckle broke about a week and a half ago in my rally race, aaaaand gm voided my warranty. Im a little angry.


you rallied a Cobalt? The knukle broke and you expected warranty?

you rallied a Cobalt? The knukle broke and you expected warranty?

I raced a fiax x 1/9 with hoosier slicks for years and never broke any suspension pieces.It should be warranty. Especially if he was on stock tires. Weak ass knuckles.

I raced a fiax x 1/9 with hoosier slicks for years and never broke any suspension pieces.It should be warranty. Especially if he was on stock tires. Weak ass knuckles.

would you rally your SS? and when things broke on your Fiat did warranty it(probably didn't have warranty)? Hey I drove my Z24 for about 6 years on and off race tires and never broke anything, I am even running my Cobalt on Hoosier A6 in autocrosses on bumpy lots.

to the guy that rallied his Cobalt, how did they find out?

would you rally your SS? and when things broke on your Fiat did warranty it(probably didn't have warranty)? Hey I drove my Z24 for about 6 years on and off race tires and never broke anything, I am even running my Cobalt on Hoosier A6 in autocrosses on bumpy lots.

to the guy that rallied his Cobalt, how did they find out?
Autocross yes ralley no.
All I am saying is it should be warranty especially the guy that broke it on the street. I raced seen tons of Acuras and wrx's running winter rally x and no broken knuckles on they. Gm f up and made they too weak and they sould step up and fix the car.Just like the axles. Nothing broke on the Fiat and I don't think they ever had have Warrany:lol:

did my autocrossing today for the first time, 10 runs total....didn't have a problem...., although I was worried they'd break so I never turned my wheel as far as it would go....

I was on crate the other night and noticed the prices for these have gone up...sUkS

I was on crate the other night and noticed the prices for these have gone up...sUkS

Damn it that blows. I wanna get these with my tax return money. I know WAY too many people who have broken their knuckles during normal street driving to take chances with mine anymore.

Are the knuckles a problem on all the modles of the Cobalt? Or just on the SS/SC???

Are the knuckles a problem on all the modles of the Cobalt? Or just on the SS/SC???

All models I would assume since they all use the same knuckles AFAIK.

Have you replaced yours yet?? I want to try autocrossing and maybe a road course as well...If replacing the knuckles puts you in a upper class, is it worth it to do it?? How fragile are they??

Have you replaced yours yet?? I want to try autocrossing and maybe a road course as well...If replacing the knuckles puts you in a upper class, is it worth it to do it?? How fragile are they??

For me it's safety before anything else. I know they've broken on people on the streets. I've done parts of 2 seasons of auto-x and 3-4 road course runs, put about 500 road course miles on the car and mine haven't broken, BUT, to me I'd rather upgrade the part than risk repairing a catastrophic failure. preventative maintanence > oh shit! repairs

For me it's safety before anything else. I know they've broken on people on the streets. I've done parts of 2 seasons of auto-x and 3-4 road course runs, put about 500 road course miles on the car and mine haven't broken, BUT, to me I'd rather upgrade the part than risk repairing a catastrophic failure. preventative maintanence > oh shit! repairs


You are correct, I was thinking the same way actually. Will the officials of SCCA know if they are replaced or not??

GM STEERING KNUCKLES
The competition-only steering knuckles for the Cobalt, G5, and ION,
as specified in Service Information Document #1864485, also do
not meet the requirements of the Stock category.

this is on page 247 of the 2008 rule book...I am entering into my second season of autocrossing, and am prolly gona go ahead and get em just in case, better than havin all that extra stuff when/if they do break....If ur not in stock class dont worry bout it:)

breaking stock knuckles(unless you crash into a curbor something) is a non issue imho but if you race your car like me u check these things closely often...kinda like a nut and bolt check or a torque the wheels before you go out check ....lol

I was under the car this weekend and after 94,000 miles... 2 seasons of Solo and alot of potholes and such... no problems here...

I AM planning on replacing them, but with the old style units since GM labeled the other ones as "for competition use", I can't use them in Stock class....

Does anyone know if this affects the 07 models? I have a cobalt LS (2007) and i was wondering if my car is affected. I didnt see it in the link that was posted but maybe someone did.

#06-03-08-001D: Info - Availability of Steering Knuckles for Competitive Driving - (Sep 27, 2006)

Subject: Availability of Steering Knuckles for Competitive Driving


Models: 2005-2007 Chevrolet Cobalt

2005-2006 Pontiac Pursuit (Canada Only)

2007 Pontiac G5

2004-2007 Saturn ION, ION Redline




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This bulletin is being revised to add a statement in the Alternate Steering Knuckles section. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 06-03-08-001C (Section 03 - Suspension).


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Alternate Steering Knuckles
This is to advise owners who intend to use their vehicles for competitive driving, of the availability of alternate steering knuckles, and to provide recommended alignment specifications for those owners who use their vehicles for competitive driving. These steering knuckles are available through GM service parts and are suggested for use on the Cobalt (Pursuit)/ION Redline. Refer to the Parts Information below for ordering instructions. (This steering knuckle may also be installed and the alignment specifications used, at the customer's discretion, for non-competition purposes.)

Replacement Procedure
Service replacement instructions can be found in SI (Steering Knuckle Replacement).

Alignment Settings
The following alignment settings provide for even tire wear in competitive driving.

Please use the following alignment specifications for competitive driving only:

Camber
Front
-1.5 +/- .75 deg.

Rear
-1.5 +/- .75 deg.

Caster
Front
3.65 +/- .75 deg.

Toe
Front
.20 +/- .5 deg.

Rear
.25 +/- .5 deg.


The original vehicle alignment specifications can be found in SI (Wheel Alignment Specifications).

Parts Information
Part Number
Description

88958710
Knuckle, LH Steering

88958711
Knuckle, RH Steering


Warranty Information
The above modifications are considered to be a customer option and should be performed at the customer's expense.

Prior to using your vehicle for competitive driving, refer to your vehicle warranty book or General Motors dealership for information on the General Motors new vehicle factory warranty, and how competitive driving may effect your warranty.

i think there was a video about this on here yesterday

Just checked, the #'s are not on file, but are avail. from source and stock is avail. (the dealer needs to call Partec for avail.) The cost, ouch, but maybe worth it for the strength. List is $335 each, cost would be around $300 each.

Idk where u got those numbers from? The gm dealership said 372 dollars and they could get them next day through their distribution center.

34K on the clock.... quite a few road course days and over a dozen Auto-X's and no problem here..... IMO you really need to beat the crap out of your car to brake em, otherwise they are faulty units.... I think if they were gonna break.... they would have checked out already!!!:cssNET: