Wideband Tech question!! help please
Wideband Tech question!! help please
so im installing my AEM UEGO wideband myself and im following these instructions because they seem pretty simple and straight forward.
i just wanted to ask you guys with an aem wideband or knowledge of, that this HOW TO GUIDE[ https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/spinners-lc1-installation-guide-pics-no-56k-42593/ ]is the same procedure for the AEM wideband. im pretty certain it is but id rather be safer than sorry

Some One Has To Know :'[
i just wanted to ask you guys with an aem wideband or knowledge of, that this HOW TO GUIDE[ https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-guide-43/spinners-lc1-installation-guide-pics-no-56k-42593/ ]is the same procedure for the AEM wideband. im pretty certain it is but id rather be safer than sorry

Some One Has To Know :'[
Last edited by Boost Fr33k; Mar 26, 2007 at 12:05 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
That should work pretty well. There are some differences though. As far as sensor placement goes, I did pretty much the exact same thing. So go ahead and use that.
Things that are different
The AEM unit doesn't have a separate box like the LC-1. It uses the gauge itself as that "box". So wherever you mount the gauge, you'll run the wire from the sensor up to there. It's really easy to to pull back on the dash around the door to hide it all.
There are two connectors on the gauge. One, I just described and it goes to the sensor. The other one is for power. There are 4 wires in this one. Red, Black, Blue, and White. Like the how to did, attach the Black wire to a grounded source (the bolt). Then attach the red wire to where the how to got power from, the blue 15 fuse. I believe he used the sunroof switch. I don't have my car here to check. Thats the fuse I used because it's switched. The first time I did it I wasn't thinking and used a non switched fuse, so it wouldn't go off. That lasted about 2 minutes.
Now your done! But what about the other wires? Well, those are used to hookup to other monitoring devices, such as HP Tuners. One wire (can't remember which color) puts out a 1-5v signal. If your using HPT, you can Plug this into I believe (My HPT cable is in my car) the 4th or 5th spot down, and then ground the top slot, and once you set up your scanner, you can record your a/f on HPT. Really helpful for tuning. The other wire you can hook up to a parallel port or serial port, and get a reading on some generic computer program. Thats nice and all, but makes it hard to tune, although not as hard as tuning while just looking at the gauge. And you shouldn't tune at all without one, so congrates on the purchase.
Let me know if you have any other questions
Things that are different
The AEM unit doesn't have a separate box like the LC-1. It uses the gauge itself as that "box". So wherever you mount the gauge, you'll run the wire from the sensor up to there. It's really easy to to pull back on the dash around the door to hide it all.
There are two connectors on the gauge. One, I just described and it goes to the sensor. The other one is for power. There are 4 wires in this one. Red, Black, Blue, and White. Like the how to did, attach the Black wire to a grounded source (the bolt). Then attach the red wire to where the how to got power from, the blue 15 fuse. I believe he used the sunroof switch. I don't have my car here to check. Thats the fuse I used because it's switched. The first time I did it I wasn't thinking and used a non switched fuse, so it wouldn't go off. That lasted about 2 minutes.
Now your done! But what about the other wires? Well, those are used to hookup to other monitoring devices, such as HP Tuners. One wire (can't remember which color) puts out a 1-5v signal. If your using HPT, you can Plug this into I believe (My HPT cable is in my car) the 4th or 5th spot down, and then ground the top slot, and once you set up your scanner, you can record your a/f on HPT. Really helpful for tuning. The other wire you can hook up to a parallel port or serial port, and get a reading on some generic computer program. Thats nice and all, but makes it hard to tune, although not as hard as tuning while just looking at the gauge. And you shouldn't tune at all without one, so congrates on the purchase.
Let me know if you have any other questions
That should work pretty well. There are some differences though. As far as sensor placement goes, I did pretty much the exact same thing. So go ahead and use that.
Things that are different
The AEM unit doesn't have a separate box like the LC-1. It uses the gauge itself as that "box". So wherever you mount the gauge, you'll run the wire from the sensor up to there. It's really easy to to pull back on the dash around the door to hide it all.
There are two connectors on the gauge. One, I just described and it goes to the sensor. The other one is for power. There are 4 wires in this one. Red, Black, Blue, and White. Like the how to did, attach the Black wire to a grounded source (the bolt). Then attach the red wire to where the how to got power from, the blue 15 fuse. I believe he used the sunroof switch. I don't have my car here to check. Thats the fuse I used because it's switched. The first time I did it I wasn't thinking and used a non switched fuse, so it wouldn't go off. That lasted about 2 minutes.
Now your done! But what about the other wires? Well, those are used to hookup to other monitoring devices, such as HP Tuners. One wire (can't remember which color) puts out a 1-5v signal. If your using HPT, you can Plug this into I believe (My HPT cable is in my car) the 4th or 5th spot down, and then ground the top slot, and once you set up your scanner, you can record your a/f on HPT. Really helpful for tuning. The other wire you can hook up to a parallel port or serial port, and get a reading on some generic computer program. Thats nice and all, but makes it hard to tune, although not as hard as tuning while just looking at the gauge. And you shouldn't tune at all without one, so congrates on the purchase.
Let me know if you have any other questions
Things that are different
The AEM unit doesn't have a separate box like the LC-1. It uses the gauge itself as that "box". So wherever you mount the gauge, you'll run the wire from the sensor up to there. It's really easy to to pull back on the dash around the door to hide it all.
There are two connectors on the gauge. One, I just described and it goes to the sensor. The other one is for power. There are 4 wires in this one. Red, Black, Blue, and White. Like the how to did, attach the Black wire to a grounded source (the bolt). Then attach the red wire to where the how to got power from, the blue 15 fuse. I believe he used the sunroof switch. I don't have my car here to check. Thats the fuse I used because it's switched. The first time I did it I wasn't thinking and used a non switched fuse, so it wouldn't go off. That lasted about 2 minutes.
Now your done! But what about the other wires? Well, those are used to hookup to other monitoring devices, such as HP Tuners. One wire (can't remember which color) puts out a 1-5v signal. If your using HPT, you can Plug this into I believe (My HPT cable is in my car) the 4th or 5th spot down, and then ground the top slot, and once you set up your scanner, you can record your a/f on HPT. Really helpful for tuning. The other wire you can hook up to a parallel port or serial port, and get a reading on some generic computer program. Thats nice and all, but makes it hard to tune, although not as hard as tuning while just looking at the gauge. And you shouldn't tune at all without one, so congrates on the purchase.
Let me know if you have any other questions
You'll need more wire, because the don't give you enough. If you don't have HPT and don't have any intentions of getting it, I'd still say to find out which wire is the 0-5v and extend it and put it in a safe place. You never know when you'll need to get a tune, and might as well be prepared. It will only take an extra two minutes at most. Let me know when your doing it, and if I'm off work, I'll pm you my number if you run into anything with it. I'd leave my phone on at work, but I'm in an ER all day, and they kinda frown on that.
You'll need more wire, because the don't give you enough. If you don't have HPT and don't have any intentions of getting it, I'd still say to find out which wire is the 0-5v and extend it and put it in a safe place. You never know when you'll need to get a tune, and might as well be prepared. It will only take an extra two minutes at most. Let me know when your doing it, and if I'm off work, I'll pm you my number if you run into anything with it. I'd leave my phone on at work, but I'm in an ER all day, and they kinda frown on that.
i was wondering what fuse spinner used. thanks! i opened mine up and realized they weren't numbered like his so i just stopped. I have to wait to get an O2 bung welded in anyway. so i'll wait.
hmm. Now that I look at it, I'm not sure which fuse that is. It's not the sunroof fuse, which is what I used. So I guess either would work just fine.
Oh yea, the only other thing I did is I added an addition in line fuse for the wideband's power
Oh yea, the only other thing I did is I added an addition in line fuse for the wideband's power
Last edited by NGalaxyTimmyo; Mar 28, 2007 at 04:19 AM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
I was wondering which fuse he used also because when I remove the drivers side panel, I don't have fuses, they are on the passenger side. I have it wired up, I just need to reinstall the sensor, I started to cross-thread it. I found something interesting last night, the bung is the same thread pitch as a 18mm spark plug.
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