Rotor Questions?
Rotor Questions?
What if any special tools will I need to replace my rotors?
The studs a pressed in, right? So should I buy new studs or can I use the old ones?
Anybody that has replaced theirs please help. I plan on doing this hopefully next Sunday. And I will try to take pics of the process to make a how to.
Thank you in advance for your help.
I just realized that the studs are in the hub and not the rotor. DEE DEE DEE
I there was a smiley for retard I would use it
The studs a pressed in, right? So should I buy new studs or can I use the old ones?
Anybody that has replaced theirs please help. I plan on doing this hopefully next Sunday. And I will try to take pics of the process to make a how to.
Thank you in advance for your help.
I just realized that the studs are in the hub and not the rotor. DEE DEE DEE
Last edited by silentgarth; Mar 26, 2007 at 01:17 AM.
Ok, but its gonna hurt. 
Its a real easy job. I upgraded my front brakes, did the whole job in maybe 4 hours, and that was with cleaning and painting the calipers, brackets, etc. I'm a little nuts when it comes to details. To do a simple rotor-pad swap, should take like 45min to an hour. Easy stuff.
Its a real easy job. I upgraded my front brakes, did the whole job in maybe 4 hours, and that was with cleaning and painting the calipers, brackets, etc. I'm a little nuts when it comes to details. To do a simple rotor-pad swap, should take like 45min to an hour. Easy stuff.
The trickiest part comes here, but its still not hard. You need to open up the caliper to make room for the new pad. You can do this easily with a large pair of pliers or a C-clamp. Just place an old brake pad against the caliper piston and slowly press the piston back in. On the rear, you have to rotate the piston to retract it. It can be done with a large screwdriver, but its worth it to buy a cheap universal tool availible at autozone or discount auto parts, just turn it in with a ratchet. Make sure not to use too much pressure or damage the rubber boot around the piston. Do this until the caliper slides over the new pads. Re-install the caliper, replace wheels, all done. Press down on the brake pedal SLOWLY to allow the system to take up the slack. Once you get a firm pedal, start car and go for a ride, make sure your brakes feel good before going too fast or far.
I think I covered everything, its really quite simple. Quick and painless.
sweet deal thanks that sounds pretty much how we did my mustangs pads and rotors, any thing i should buy besides new rotors and pads? But better yet, my cobalt is an 05 and should still be under warranty. Are breaks covered on the 3yr/36,000mi warranty?
Last edited by pinoypapi198369; May 11, 2007 at 12:39 AM.
This is my first car with ABS and I'm much more comfortable doing it the OLD way.
You should always open the brake fluid resivpr under the hood. but the only time you need to worry about anything involveing the bleeder is when yiou dissconect the caliper completely. As long as you leave the brake lines attached the brakes don't need to be blead.
Right, i left that out, about opening the resivior while pressing the calipers back in. You shouldn't have a problem on a new car, since you have never added fluid, but its always a good idea just to be sure. You really don't want fluid splashing around your engine compartment or on your paint if too much pressure builds up in the resivior.
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