Bully Clutch Questions Answered!!!
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Joined: 12-24-05
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From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Bully Clutch Questions Answered!!!
This is my long awaited review about the new Bully Clutch for the Cobalt SS and Ion Redlines. I am sorry that I didn't do this sooner, but I have been very busy with work and haven't had much time to write up a good review, so here it goes.
Type of clutch I have:
Bulley Stage IV Full Carbon/Ceramic sprung 6 puck
Miles:
The clutch has around 5,000 miles now.
Below are the questions that were asked of me by Bully since my car is one of the original prototypes of this clutch.
Greetings Vince,
We trust that you have had a chance to assess the performance of the clutch kit we have produced for the Cobalt SS. Mr. Mel Tiqui from TAG Racecraft supplied us with your e-mail address so that we can solicit your cooperation in giving us some hands on feedback on this Bully Performance Clutch. Kindly take a few minutes to respond to the following questions and please feel free to expand on your comments as much as you would like to:
1) Ease of installation of the custom flange and slave cylinder
This modifcation was pretty straightforward, the only thing needed to be done was to bend the slave cylinder line slightly, and it was in there. One other thing to note about installation: The kit comes with larger style guide pins for the flywheel. If you plan on using these it is HIGHLY recommened that you have a machine shop take out the old ones and put in the new ones at the time of the flywheels' resurfacing, as it is nearly impossible to get the old ones out by hand. Mine were not used in the installation because of this.
2) Status of the release point
Release point is fairly close to stock, although sometimes depending on how you drive the car the relase point changes slightly. I'm not sure exactly what this is, but I do know that the system is bled properly, because it was done a few times. Note that it hardly ever happens anymore unless I let someone else drive the car. If anything the relase point is a little lower than stock, which is in my opinion better.
3) Status of the engagement point
Engagement is fairly close to stock and is fairly agressive. It takes a little getting used to because the stock clutch is so "comfort" oriented. Again, nothing a little driving around can't fix. Note that when the clutch is first installed, the engagement point was pretty much whenver you moved the pedal. But once you cycle the clutch a few times, its fine.
4) Pedal feel
Pedal feel is definately a little firmer than stock. I would say about 20 percent firmer. But its definately not overwhelmingly difficult, and you don't need to go the gym to get yourself prepared for it.
5) Is the clutch capable of handling the extra torque
I really don't think there's anyone producing enough power at this time(turbo or not) that would ever hurt this clutch. My car right now is only making around 240 whp because of tuning problems. But I feel like this clutch is definately capable of its 400 whp claims.
6) Any other suggestions would be most welcome
Personally, I think if your going with a clutch setup like this, you definately need FULL polyurethane motor mounts. Because the engagement of this clutch is so quick and precise, you have to "feather" it so much to get a smooth shift for normal everyday driving. In my opinion, the mounts would aid in giving you better shifting, with less effort.
Also, I have noticed that my tranny is a little bit notchier than it used to be, and this may have something to do with how the clutch relases and engages, because it is a little different than factory. It's kind of hard to explain, but again, this is what I would call a minor problem. A possible solution for this could possiblely be a shorter throw shifter, which would coenside with the quicker release/engagement points that this clutch brings to the table.
All and all I think that this is an excellent product and I am greatful that Bully was able to put this setup together in time for me to get my new engine installed in my vehicle. I think that this product will set the benchmark for all other clutch companies when it comes to a clutch for the Cobalt or any other vehicle.
Please note that it did take some time for me to get my product, but remember that quality products take time to produce, as I have been told that all of the clutches are hand assembled and hand checked before they leave the factory. Which is always a good thing, especially for the money your paying for this product. Which isn't all that bad, especially since you get to keep your stock flywheel and have basically a redesigned clutch system for your car!
Also I'd like to take this oportunity to put a few "myths" to rest about clutch installations.
A few of you have heard that it requires a vaccum pump and a rubber stopper and hoses and special bleeding procedures to "get all of the air out of the system". Read the next statement carefully:
THIS IS COMPLETE BULLSHIT
Okay now that I've made that clear, if you drive a 2005-2007 Cobalt SS Supercharged, than this is not neccessary. Now if you drive a Redline, then you will have to deal with this, because Saturn was not nice enough to provide you with a bleeder screw.
Any questions or suggestions, feel free to reply to this page.
Later,
Vincent Coker
vcoker18@comcast.net
Type of clutch I have:
Bulley Stage IV Full Carbon/Ceramic sprung 6 puck
Miles:
The clutch has around 5,000 miles now.
Below are the questions that were asked of me by Bully since my car is one of the original prototypes of this clutch.
Greetings Vince,
We trust that you have had a chance to assess the performance of the clutch kit we have produced for the Cobalt SS. Mr. Mel Tiqui from TAG Racecraft supplied us with your e-mail address so that we can solicit your cooperation in giving us some hands on feedback on this Bully Performance Clutch. Kindly take a few minutes to respond to the following questions and please feel free to expand on your comments as much as you would like to:
1) Ease of installation of the custom flange and slave cylinder
This modifcation was pretty straightforward, the only thing needed to be done was to bend the slave cylinder line slightly, and it was in there. One other thing to note about installation: The kit comes with larger style guide pins for the flywheel. If you plan on using these it is HIGHLY recommened that you have a machine shop take out the old ones and put in the new ones at the time of the flywheels' resurfacing, as it is nearly impossible to get the old ones out by hand. Mine were not used in the installation because of this.
2) Status of the release point
Release point is fairly close to stock, although sometimes depending on how you drive the car the relase point changes slightly. I'm not sure exactly what this is, but I do know that the system is bled properly, because it was done a few times. Note that it hardly ever happens anymore unless I let someone else drive the car. If anything the relase point is a little lower than stock, which is in my opinion better.
3) Status of the engagement point
Engagement is fairly close to stock and is fairly agressive. It takes a little getting used to because the stock clutch is so "comfort" oriented. Again, nothing a little driving around can't fix. Note that when the clutch is first installed, the engagement point was pretty much whenver you moved the pedal. But once you cycle the clutch a few times, its fine.
4) Pedal feel
Pedal feel is definately a little firmer than stock. I would say about 20 percent firmer. But its definately not overwhelmingly difficult, and you don't need to go the gym to get yourself prepared for it.
5) Is the clutch capable of handling the extra torque
I really don't think there's anyone producing enough power at this time(turbo or not) that would ever hurt this clutch. My car right now is only making around 240 whp because of tuning problems. But I feel like this clutch is definately capable of its 400 whp claims.
6) Any other suggestions would be most welcome
Personally, I think if your going with a clutch setup like this, you definately need FULL polyurethane motor mounts. Because the engagement of this clutch is so quick and precise, you have to "feather" it so much to get a smooth shift for normal everyday driving. In my opinion, the mounts would aid in giving you better shifting, with less effort.
Also, I have noticed that my tranny is a little bit notchier than it used to be, and this may have something to do with how the clutch relases and engages, because it is a little different than factory. It's kind of hard to explain, but again, this is what I would call a minor problem. A possible solution for this could possiblely be a shorter throw shifter, which would coenside with the quicker release/engagement points that this clutch brings to the table.
All and all I think that this is an excellent product and I am greatful that Bully was able to put this setup together in time for me to get my new engine installed in my vehicle. I think that this product will set the benchmark for all other clutch companies when it comes to a clutch for the Cobalt or any other vehicle.
Please note that it did take some time for me to get my product, but remember that quality products take time to produce, as I have been told that all of the clutches are hand assembled and hand checked before they leave the factory. Which is always a good thing, especially for the money your paying for this product. Which isn't all that bad, especially since you get to keep your stock flywheel and have basically a redesigned clutch system for your car!
Also I'd like to take this oportunity to put a few "myths" to rest about clutch installations.
A few of you have heard that it requires a vaccum pump and a rubber stopper and hoses and special bleeding procedures to "get all of the air out of the system". Read the next statement carefully:
THIS IS COMPLETE BULLSHIT
Okay now that I've made that clear, if you drive a 2005-2007 Cobalt SS Supercharged, than this is not neccessary. Now if you drive a Redline, then you will have to deal with this, because Saturn was not nice enough to provide you with a bleeder screw.
Any questions or suggestions, feel free to reply to this page.
Later,
Vincent Coker
vcoker18@comcast.net
Senior Member
Joined: 04-07-05
Posts: 806
Likes: 0
From: Syracuse, NY
Nice write-up Vman. I am debating between the Exedy and the Bully clutch at the moment. I have a few questions for you: Have you ran it at a track yet (or a hard launch on the street), and if so, how did it do? What kind of power/mods are you running through the clutch at the moment?
Again great write-up, I think alot of people haven't commented much because you covered alot!
Again great write-up, I think alot of people haven't commented much because you covered alot!
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 12-24-05
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Nice write-up Vman. I am debating between the Exedy and the Bully clutch at the moment. I have a few questions for you: Have you ran it at a track yet (or a hard launch on the street), and if so, how did it do? What kind of power/mods are you running through the clutch at the moment?
Again great write-up, I think alot of people haven't commented much because you covered alot!
Again great write-up, I think alot of people haven't commented much because you covered alot!
But to answer your question, no I have not yet had a chance to perform a hard launch because I have no driveline improvements...axles, poly mounts, etc... I haven't even taken it to the track as of yet.
I have a built motor with 10:1 Diamond Racing Pistons...and tuning it on pump gas has been a challenge. With a 2.7 inch pulley and only 10 degrees of full advance, the car only made 240whp on a dynojet. Which is pretty sad. I believe I am having a fuel injector problem on number 2 injector, which is causing intermident knock in the mid to upper rpm range. Just haven't had the time to fix it with crazy hours at work as of late. Intense will be sending me a set of flow tested 60 lb/hr injectors as soon as I get mine to them.
Later,
Vince.
cool deal man... finally got a chance to check it out. I myself am torn btwn exedy and Bully at the moment. What to do What to do.lol
anyway... send me your damn tune so I can fix it for ya. lol
(turbo comes in Friday along with all the piping and whatnot. fun days ahead)
anyway... send me your damn tune so I can fix it for ya. lol
(turbo comes in Friday along with all the piping and whatnot. fun days ahead)
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 12-24-05
Posts: 175
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From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Later,
Vince.
Member
Joined: 06-28-05
Posts: 369
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From: Pitt Meadows, BC
In reference to bleeding the clutch after install, sweet. I haven't had to bleed that clutch (da, still stock hardly even driven), but was reading that vacuum procedure in the gm service manual and was bummed since i don't have those tools at home.
Also, listening in to the post.
Nate
Also, listening in to the post.
Nate
Thread Starter
New Member
Joined: 12-24-05
Posts: 175
Likes: 0
From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
In reference to bleeding the clutch after install, sweet. I haven't had to bleed that clutch (da, still stock hardly even driven), but was reading that vacuum procedure in the gm service manual and was bummed since i don't have those tools at home.
Also, listening in to the post.
Nate
Also, listening in to the post.
Nate
1. Make sure that the brake/clutch res. is full.
2. Crack open the bleeder screw located on the driver hand side of your Cobalt on the tranny.
3. Let it sit there and fluid will run out for a minute or two. DO NOT PRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL OR DO ANYTHING ELSE TO THE CAR!!!
4. Keep an eye on the fluid level and make sure it doesn't drain down to far for about 10 or 15 minutes.
5. Tighten bleeder screw and pump the pedal several times, all the way down to the floor and then back up again.
6. Crank your car and see what happens!!!
I know it sounds ridiculously simple, but I got the best pedal with this method. Mel at Tag Racecraft instructed me to do it this way and so far so good.
Later,
Vince.
well im going to have to get a new clutch when i build my motor so i guess this is helping me out a lot in my decision but damn i hate the price tags on good quality stuff lol. Ypu pay for what you get.
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Joined: 07-05-05
Posts: 126
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From: Baton Rouge
The whole vaccum pump thing is a complete waste of time. You don't need to do that at all. Here is how we bled my clutch...
1. Make sure that the brake/clutch res. is full.
2. Crack open the bleeder screw located on the driver hand side of your Cobalt on the tranny.
3. Let it sit there and fluid will run out for a minute or two. DO NOT PRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL OR DO ANYTHING ELSE TO THE CAR!!!
4. Keep an eye on the fluid level and make sure it doesn't drain down to far for about 10 or 15 minutes.
5. Tighten bleeder screw and pump the pedal several times, all the way down to the floor and then back up again.
6. Crank your car and see what happens!!!
I know it sounds ridiculously simple, but I got the best pedal with this method. Mel at Tag Racecraft instructed me to do it this way and so far so good.
Later,
Vince.
1. Make sure that the brake/clutch res. is full.
2. Crack open the bleeder screw located on the driver hand side of your Cobalt on the tranny.
3. Let it sit there and fluid will run out for a minute or two. DO NOT PRESS THE CLUTCH PEDAL OR DO ANYTHING ELSE TO THE CAR!!!
4. Keep an eye on the fluid level and make sure it doesn't drain down to far for about 10 or 15 minutes.
5. Tighten bleeder screw and pump the pedal several times, all the way down to the floor and then back up again.
6. Crank your car and see what happens!!!
I know it sounds ridiculously simple, but I got the best pedal with this method. Mel at Tag Racecraft instructed me to do it this way and so far so good.
Later,
Vince.
I'm glad that Mel's procedure worked for you. It's been working since about 1903 when they developed hydraulics. Someone will have a problem IMHO. I'd ammend the statement to say that YOU did not have a problem. You may inadvertently get people in over their heads....
Price does not necessairly mean quality, just remember that...
Last edited by rlinbatonrouge; May 15, 2007 at 09:57 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
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New Member
Joined: 12-24-05
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From: Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Well, I have read in the service manual that you can do it either manually or with a vaccum pump. I tried the vaccum method this past week, and it seems to be a little more consistant. As far as my statements on this thread go, your right, I haven't had any problems. That's not to say that someone else may have problems in the future, or even myself.
And as far as price goes, I do believe that this clutch system is the most expensive, without a flywheel.
Later,
Vince.
And as far as price goes, I do believe that this clutch system is the most expensive, without a flywheel.
Later,
Vince.
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