decided to go supercharged
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: 11-01-05
Posts: 5,435
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio,TX
decided to go supercharged
Well I decided to go supercharged, so here is the story why. My friend is re-building his cavaliers motor(2.2ecotec) its already turboed. So I'm gonna supercharge my 2.4SS, now I'm asking the good people on this forum
1. Whats the complete parts list, even down to the smallest screw or zip tie lol, Also part numbers if there are any?
2. ummmm... no. 1 is the main question lol, I don't have any other questions as of now, but when they arise I will spit them out.
Also I'm gonna buy traction bars, and a torque dampner. Any other parts I would need?
Thank you for your help in advance!!!
1. Whats the complete parts list, even down to the smallest screw or zip tie lol, Also part numbers if there are any?
2. ummmm... no. 1 is the main question lol, I don't have any other questions as of now, but when they arise I will spit them out.
Also I'm gonna buy traction bars, and a torque dampner. Any other parts I would need?
Thank you for your help in advance!!!
Here's some things you need
Supercharger....obviously
LSJ intake manifold
LSJ idler pulley and bracket
LSJ heat exchanger
LSJ heat exchanger piping and what not
Tune lol
34 lb injectors I belive should work...if not go 42's
LSJ cai
Supercharger belt
Maybe a boost sensor???
Fuel Injector wiring harness probably
Maybe a throttle body?? I don't know if the 2.4 would work or not
Probably a lot more...there was a guy selling everything, even the supercharger for like 1700 bux on here not too long ago
Supercharger....obviously
LSJ intake manifold
LSJ idler pulley and bracket
LSJ heat exchanger
LSJ heat exchanger piping and what not
Tune lol
34 lb injectors I belive should work...if not go 42's
LSJ cai
Supercharger belt
Maybe a boost sensor???
Fuel Injector wiring harness probably
Maybe a throttle body?? I don't know if the 2.4 would work or not
Probably a lot more...there was a guy selling everything, even the supercharger for like 1700 bux on here not too long ago
I belive they can run like 6 lbs or maybe even 8 lbs safely....other than that, I wouldn't go any more
The c6 z06 has like an 11.0 cr and can run like 4-6 lbs safely but then again, the pistons in that car are probalby better than the ones in a cobalt (any model)
The c6 z06 has like an 11.0 cr and can run like 4-6 lbs safely but then again, the pistons in that car are probalby better than the ones in a cobalt (any model)
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: 11-01-05
Posts: 5,435
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio,TX
I'll buy the stuff I need from you
Last edited by Dragonsfire12345; Sep 21, 2007 at 07:48 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Here's a more complete list with some part numbers. If you get all this, you're pretty much set to go except for some IM bolts, and other misc things you may need along the way.
LC-1 Wideband controller
Intercooler pump
Eaton M62 with 3.34” pulley
Cobra Heat Exchanger
Surge tank
2-Bar Map sensor Pigtail ( #15305891)
2-Bar Map Sensor ( #12569241)
Intake Manifold lower brace ( #12586632)
(4) NGK LFR6A-11 Copper Spark Plugs
(4) Supercharger bolts
Supercharger gasket (#12584342)
LSJ Intake Manifold
LSJ Intake Manifold Gasket
T fittings 3/4"
Y fittings 3/4"
L fittings 3/4"
large hose clamps
small hose clamps
(2) 4oz. bottles of supercharger oil
ž” heater hose
GM Stage 2 S/C belt
LSJ alternator
2005 Cavalier fuel injector harness (#15411879)
Rebel Tensioner pulley (bracket may need to be grinded for fitment)
Autometer mechanical boost gauge with hose and fittings (mounted)
radiator hose
LC-1 Wideband controller
Intercooler pump
Eaton M62 with 3.34” pulley
Cobra Heat Exchanger
Surge tank
2-Bar Map sensor Pigtail ( #15305891)
2-Bar Map Sensor ( #12569241)
Intake Manifold lower brace ( #12586632)
(4) NGK LFR6A-11 Copper Spark Plugs
(4) Supercharger bolts
Supercharger gasket (#12584342)
LSJ Intake Manifold
LSJ Intake Manifold Gasket
T fittings 3/4"
Y fittings 3/4"
L fittings 3/4"
large hose clamps
small hose clamps
(2) 4oz. bottles of supercharger oil
ž” heater hose
GM Stage 2 S/C belt
LSJ alternator
2005 Cavalier fuel injector harness (#15411879)
Rebel Tensioner pulley (bracket may need to be grinded for fitment)
Autometer mechanical boost gauge with hose and fittings (mounted)
radiator hose
http://www.ecotecforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4539
4. You shouldn't or can't boost a high compression (static) engine
This isn't true and there is nothing wrong with doing so if you of course know what you are doing from the beginning.
The reason people say this is because naturally, higher compressioned pistons (taller), experience higher combustion chamber temperatures than lower compressioned pistons (shorter). If you were to "boost" a naturally aspirated engine that is (for example sake) 10.5:1 compression, nothing different will occur than if you had 8.5:1 compression pistons.
The pros of boosting a higher compressioned engine is that less air is required from your compressor to yield X HP/TQ than if you had a lower compressioned engine. Why? High compressioned engines compress the air/fuel mixture tighter which also allows for a better air/fuel mixture burn which would yield a stronger ignition on the top of the piston, which creates force to turn the crankshaft and create more power.
With less boost pressure required, it is also more likely that you will be staying in the efficiency range of your compressor, which means a less likely of you creating excess heat and raising your IATs (Intake Air Temperature).
The con: Excessively High Combustion Chamber Temperatures
Yes, that is bad but it's all about countermeasuring it and doing things to a degree. There are many of ways to counteract excess heat:
1. Running a richer fuel mixture
2. "Colder" spark plugs
3. Retarding ignition timing
4. Running Higher Octane
5. Running Meth/Water Injection
6. Better (more efficient) Intercooling
These are the more general ways of doing so.
#4 is usually a big concern because of course, not everyone has access to Octane Fuel higher than 93 Rating but to also run into another misconception that you will NEED higher octane fuel...that's also incorrect because the other 5 options I listed can help to achieve the same goal.
This isn't true and there is nothing wrong with doing so if you of course know what you are doing from the beginning.
The reason people say this is because naturally, higher compressioned pistons (taller), experience higher combustion chamber temperatures than lower compressioned pistons (shorter). If you were to "boost" a naturally aspirated engine that is (for example sake) 10.5:1 compression, nothing different will occur than if you had 8.5:1 compression pistons.
The pros of boosting a higher compressioned engine is that less air is required from your compressor to yield X HP/TQ than if you had a lower compressioned engine. Why? High compressioned engines compress the air/fuel mixture tighter which also allows for a better air/fuel mixture burn which would yield a stronger ignition on the top of the piston, which creates force to turn the crankshaft and create more power.
With less boost pressure required, it is also more likely that you will be staying in the efficiency range of your compressor, which means a less likely of you creating excess heat and raising your IATs (Intake Air Temperature).
The con: Excessively High Combustion Chamber Temperatures
Yes, that is bad but it's all about countermeasuring it and doing things to a degree. There are many of ways to counteract excess heat:
1. Running a richer fuel mixture
2. "Colder" spark plugs
3. Retarding ignition timing
4. Running Higher Octane
5. Running Meth/Water Injection
6. Better (more efficient) Intercooling
These are the more general ways of doing so.
#4 is usually a big concern because of course, not everyone has access to Octane Fuel higher than 93 Rating but to also run into another misconception that you will NEED higher octane fuel...that's also incorrect because the other 5 options I listed can help to achieve the same goal.
Well... here's the first real question... Roots or Centrifugal?
We all know that the LSJ parts will swap over...
If a pro-charger kit fits for the 2.2... it will fit for the 2.4. everything is the same... so the brackets and all should fit fine.
We all know that the LSJ parts will swap over...
If a pro-charger kit fits for the 2.2... it will fit for the 2.4. everything is the same... so the brackets and all should fit fine.
Wont need to buy the kit for the 2.2 if you want a procharger and want to wait a bit. Im getting a kit fabbed to my 2.4 soon then it will be put on the market
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: 11-01-05
Posts: 5,435
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio,TX
I'm gonna do the LSJ SC swap. As for me being the guinea pig, I'll do it I'll get smaller pullies and see what happens. First I'll save up enough money to replace stuff if, and when they break!!!! So in other words, I'll go with the stock pulley and stay that way for awhile lol.
I'm gonna do the LSJ SC swap. As for me being the guinea pig, I'll do it I'll get smaller pullies and see what happens. First I'll save up enough money to replace stuff if, and when they break!!!! So in other words, I'll go with the stock pulley and stay that way for awhile lol.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: 11-01-05
Posts: 5,435
Likes: 0
From: San Antonio,TX
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



