Every spark plug question Answered
#77
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Torque recommends vary depending on manufacturer although they are all pretty darn close.
Now on the LSJ they have a 14mm gasket seat plug so we'd recommend 18-21lb-ft.
For your car with your mods I'd just recommend dropping a heat range colder than stock to the either the LTR6IX-11 (around 30k miles) or the ILTR6A-8G (around 60k mile life).
Personally I'd go with the ILTR6A-8G because its a double precious metal plug so you get the longer life but it also has a copper cored ground electrode (it's the facotry plug on the Mazda 2.3 MZR turbo engine) which will lessen the chance of the ground overheating and becoming a hot spot (also helps to lengthen plug life to a degree) and because the plug comes factory gapped to .032" where as the LTR6IX-11 comes all the way at .044" and would have to be crushed down pretty far for a turbo app.
On my Saturn Sky that I'm turbocharging (has the N/A 2.4L LE5) I went two steps colder to the LTR7IX-11 just to be safe. I plan for around 300whp.
#78
The LNF takes a 14mm tapered seat plug. NGK recommends 7.2-14.5 lb-ftwith aluminum heads, I'd go to the high side of the recommendation at about 15lbs.
Torque recommends vary depending on manufacturer although they are all pretty darn close.
Now on the LSJ they have a 14mm gasket seat plug so we'd recommend 18-21lb-ft.
For your car with your mods I'd just recommend dropping a heat range colder than stock to the either the LTR6IX-11 (around 30k miles) or the ILTR6A-8G (around 60k mile life).
Personally I'd go with the ILTR6A-8G because its a double precious metal plug so you get the longer life but it also has a copper cored ground electrode (it's the facotry plug on the Mazda 2.3 MZR turbo engine) which will lessen the chance of the ground overheating and becoming a hot spot (also helps to lengthen plug life to a degree) and because the plug comes factory gapped to .032" where as the LTR6IX-11 comes all the way at .044" and would have to be crushed down pretty far for a turbo app.
On my Saturn Sky that I'm turbocharging (has the N/A 2.4L LE5) I went two steps colder to the LTR7IX-11 just to be safe. I plan for around 300whp.
Torque recommends vary depending on manufacturer although they are all pretty darn close.
Now on the LSJ they have a 14mm gasket seat plug so we'd recommend 18-21lb-ft.
For your car with your mods I'd just recommend dropping a heat range colder than stock to the either the LTR6IX-11 (around 30k miles) or the ILTR6A-8G (around 60k mile life).
Personally I'd go with the ILTR6A-8G because its a double precious metal plug so you get the longer life but it also has a copper cored ground electrode (it's the facotry plug on the Mazda 2.3 MZR turbo engine) which will lessen the chance of the ground overheating and becoming a hot spot (also helps to lengthen plug life to a degree) and because the plug comes factory gapped to .032" where as the LTR6IX-11 comes all the way at .044" and would have to be crushed down pretty far for a turbo app.
On my Saturn Sky that I'm turbocharging (has the N/A 2.4L LE5) I went two steps colder to the LTR7IX-11 just to be safe. I plan for around 300whp.
should i move to the colder plugs? what change will i see if so?
#81
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I have spark blowout since going to 2.8 from 2.9 with 60's now instead of 42's.
Guy who dyno'ed my car said check you plugs and run .028" REALLY!?! Isn't that a bit tight for my mods?
I am going to check the gap and maybe drop to .030" first unless they are already there.
Guy who dyno'ed my car said check you plugs and run .028" REALLY!?! Isn't that a bit tight for my mods?
I am going to check the gap and maybe drop to .030" first unless they are already there.
#82
I have spark blowout since going to 2.8 from 2.9 with 60's now instead of 42's.
Guy who dyno'ed my car said check you plugs and run .028" REALLY!?! Isn't that a bit tight for my mods?
I am going to check the gap and maybe drop to .030" first unless they are already there.
Guy who dyno'ed my car said check you plugs and run .028" REALLY!?! Isn't that a bit tight for my mods?
I am going to check the gap and maybe drop to .030" first unless they are already there.
I flow around 37-38 lbs/min of air & my plugs are gapped at 0.032". I have no blowout. Not even on super cool days.
For your mods 0.033-0.032" should be good. 0.030" will still be too small. Remember you want the largest gap possible w/o blowout.
#83
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Thank-you sir!! I have some new plugs on the way and I am going to ditch the crappy gapping tool I have and use my feeler gauges.
Another member in my area has the same mods as me and it Trifecta tuned and is having blowout issues too so I am going to compare results with him. I also want to double check my injectors are installed correctly.
Thanks for the info I appreciate the input from the "experienced".
#86
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Not sure what you mean by "modern style", but the bkr7e's I have have a fat center electrode, and a fat ground strap shrouding the center pretty good. Any time you can expose the spark to the chamber it's a good thing.
I'd be worried about cutting the "button" off the ground strap, but a cutback has a shorter lifespan anyway
I'd be worried about cutting the "button" off the ground strap, but a cutback has a shorter lifespan anyway
#89
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Brand: NGK Spark Plugs
Manufacturer's Part Number: 4644
Part Type: Spark Plugs
Product Line: NGK V-Power Spark Plugs
Shorty Spark Plug: No
Resistor: Yes
Manufacturer Heat Range: 7
Electrode Core Material: Copper
Electrode Tip Material: Nickel alloy
Insulator Type: Projected Spark
Plug Thread Size: 14mm
Spark Plug Reach: 0.750 in.
Spark Plug Seat Style: Gasket
Wrench Diameter: 5/8 in.
Ground Strap Quantity: One
NGK Part Number: BKR7E
The Electrode tip is Nickel and the Core material is Copper.
I only know this becuase over the past couple of weeks I have been looking for plugs and equivalents without success. So it is BKR7E now called the 4644 for me.
Manufacturer's Part Number: 4644
Part Type: Spark Plugs
Product Line: NGK V-Power Spark Plugs
Shorty Spark Plug: No
Resistor: Yes
Manufacturer Heat Range: 7
Electrode Core Material: Copper
Electrode Tip Material: Nickel alloy
Insulator Type: Projected Spark
Plug Thread Size: 14mm
Spark Plug Reach: 0.750 in.
Spark Plug Seat Style: Gasket
Wrench Diameter: 5/8 in.
Ground Strap Quantity: One
NGK Part Number: BKR7E
The Electrode tip is Nickel and the Core material is Copper.
I only know this becuase over the past couple of weeks I have been looking for plugs and equivalents without success. So it is BKR7E now called the 4644 for me.
#90
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hey everyone, i need some help.
So i have CAI, upper cp, catless dp, turboxs fmic, trifecta selective tune, one is gms1, the other is set to 23psi. I just bought some ngk LTR5IX-11 gap .036 for my lnf. my issue is that when i stomp on the gas every once in a while the vehicle seems to bog out and sputter a little before taking off. im not sure if that because of my gapping or what? can anyone let me know if i need a colder plug or can i re gap this ones so i dont have to spend another 40+ bucks for a set. THANKS
So i have CAI, upper cp, catless dp, turboxs fmic, trifecta selective tune, one is gms1, the other is set to 23psi. I just bought some ngk LTR5IX-11 gap .036 for my lnf. my issue is that when i stomp on the gas every once in a while the vehicle seems to bog out and sputter a little before taking off. im not sure if that because of my gapping or what? can anyone let me know if i need a colder plug or can i re gap this ones so i dont have to spend another 40+ bucks for a set. THANKS
#93
Haha sorry. I'm on my phone, not much time to fully search. Don't know why I asked really. Just kinda wanted confirmation from someone with similar mods, who maybe has some personal experience they could help me with.
#94
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No it's fine, I was just being a smartass because the thread tittle says the questions are all awnsered... ALL of them. EVERYONE ofthe questions. lol.
But anyway your setup is similar to mine, and I run the BKR7Es. However, I do not have TVS. I'm still running the M62 with a 2.9" Pulley for 15 lbs boost.
#96
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plug destroid no code
I have an 06 cobalt ss 2.0 sc.
I noticed my engine stubling a bit so i started inspecting my beloved cobalt.
I checked for vacum leaks, throttle and quite a few other things thinking it was running ritch or lean. So out of idea's. I decided to check the plugs but i wasent expecting to find anything but i looked into the holes 3/4 plugs were fine but hole #2 was black and full of carbon. i took the plug out and the bottem was gone the prong was nowere to be found.
Correct me if im wrong, but if a cylender is misfiring shouldn't i have gotten a code for cylender 2? I probly drove it like that for weeks or, months.
I noticed my engine stubling a bit so i started inspecting my beloved cobalt.
I checked for vacum leaks, throttle and quite a few other things thinking it was running ritch or lean. So out of idea's. I decided to check the plugs but i wasent expecting to find anything but i looked into the holes 3/4 plugs were fine but hole #2 was black and full of carbon. i took the plug out and the bottem was gone the prong was nowere to be found.
Correct me if im wrong, but if a cylender is misfiring shouldn't i have gotten a code for cylender 2? I probly drove it like that for weeks or, months.
#98
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Well I just installed the NGK6E, and gapped them at .050" and I'm not getting any blow out.. Not to mention the car feels like it is more responsive and halls ass. My old plugs were the NGK7E gapped at .030 and the car felt sluggish when I floored it and only around 13psi would it then feel like torque was finally setting in the car would get faster through mid to high rpm. I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this gap and what results they got from it. Like I said my car runs like a fukin champion right now lol at the .050" gap on the NGK6E's.. I did notice from my old plugs alot of carbon build up with white on the tips so I feel I am running rich but can't be certain due to no Uego to monitor air to fuel yet.
#99
Well I just installed the NGK6E, and gapped them at .050" and I'm not getting any blow out.. Not to mention the car feels like it is more responsive and halls ass. My old plugs were the NGK7E gapped at .030 and the car felt sluggish when I floored it and only around 13psi would it then feel like torque was finally setting in the car would get faster through mid to high rpm. I'm wondering if anyone else has tried this gap and what results they got from it. Like I said my car runs like a fukin champion right now lol at the .050" gap on the NGK6E's.. I did notice from my old plugs alot of carbon build up with white on the tips so I feel I am running rich but can't be certain due to no Uego to monitor air to fuel yet.
0.030 prob felt like crap, because that was way to small of a gap for your setup.
#100
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