Norwin? Holy **** dude that's in the boonies!

 

Norwin in the Boonies????? hardly!

Maybe 25 years ago... we were kinda rural then... but now it's almost as bad as Monroevill/Murrysville.


Big thanks to Cory for buying the Steelies last night... more room in the garage for Z06 wheels now.

Anyone interested, I have a stock serpentine belt & clean K&N Filter ( stock replacement ) that someone can have if they come get it.

 

I could use the belt I believe. Will you be around this weekend Brian?

 

Would that serpentine belt be the same one as used when converting a 2.4 to s/c?

 

LittleStealthSS, will your K&N fit the SS/TC? If so, I'd like to take it...

And I was at the dealership yesterday getting some minor work done, but who owns the blue SS/TC with powdercoated blue wheels?...someone blew the **** out of their engine...

 

got my front lip on

 

------

Was that too much?

 

Anybody know how to troubleshoot/fix a LC1 wideband freaking out?

It has always read spot-on on my DB-Red gauge. Then today I hooked my laptop up to the LC1 and used the programmer app to change a couple settings on the wideband. I set the data speed from constand to 1/12 (and tried 1/6 too). I also tried to adjust the wideband to read AFR of 10 to 18 from 0 to 5 volts instead of the default 7.35 to 22.39 AFR. These settings were recommended by people of the HP Tuners forums for better tuning results with the LC1.

Now, the gauge fluctuates like crazy and hits 7.5 through 22.5 (full lean) even when sitting at idle. The gauge also will blink sometimes when it hits the high or low extremes. The gauge has never done this before, as it used to hit 22.5 a lot when coasting with DFCO. At WOT the gauge will register a normal reading then fly around with all kinds of random numbers.

The wiring should be good as I just redid it all when I put the new ZZP pillar on a couple of weeks ago. The only thing I did was try to reprogram the settings with the computer tonight.

Anyone have any ideas? I didn't find anything searching around. I doubt there is actually a problem as everything has worked fine for about a year and a half...

 

I had an LC1 in my last Evo. I hated it. I will never buy an innovate product again. Mine constantly did this. It basically looses its configuration. You will have to free air calibrate it again. If that is not easily done, hopefully you mounted your red button within reach of the driver seat or at least in the cabin. If you cant free air calibrate it the suggested way, find a long hill on a 55-65 mph road. Run up to 4th gear, high rpm, 60ish mph. Let off the gas pedal so the injectors shut off, but the engine will be pumping air through it, dont touch the gas. Press and hold the red button for 3 seconds and it will initiate a free air cal. I forget how long the free air cal takes, 10 or so seconds? Something like that. Good Luck. I hope you have better luck with yours than i did with mine.

 

Any local guys selling / know someone selling a black coupe low-profile spoiler? Have cash ready to go..

 

Nope sorry dude

 

Thanks for the info. I'm gonna update the LC1 firmware today to see if it fixes it first. Then if not I'm gonna do a free air calibration using the programmer software.

 

Ya def get the latest firmware. I wouldnt waste your time doing the free air cal through the programmer. Just skip right to the manual free air cal.

 

I updated the firmware and it still didn't work. However I think it's back to normal now after letting the car sit for over a day and doing the free air cal with the sensor in the pipe. I couldn't get the O2 sensor out and I didn't want to break it. I had to do the cal using the LMProgrammer because I don't have the switch or LED hooked up. It seems to have worked though, as the readings appear correct now.

Do you happen to know if the DB-Red gauge will respond accurately to setting the LC1 outputs to different settings? For instance will the gauge still give correct readings when the LC1 is set to output AFR 10 at 0 volts and AFR 18 at 5 volts instead of the default settings? I wasn't sure if the gauge was smart enough to know the 'scale shifted'.

Thanks for the help!

 

Good to hear that you seem to have gotten re-cal'd. Get use to doing it - it seemed for mine that once it happened, it just opened the flood gates and became repetitive. I would def. hook up the led and the button.

I am not sure about the DB gauge. I am not a fan of lots of in-car gauges. I was lucky enough to be able to interface mine with evoscan and didnt need a gauge. Im sorry i cant help you with that one.

 

I'll have to get that LED and button hooked up lol. I haven't ever had a problem with it in 1.5 years, then it acted up. Thanks for the help, I appreciate it!

 

Looking for a little tuning assistance with a couple questions...

Anybody have a good HP Tuners config file to scan the most important things on the SS/SC's? Preferably with a MAF vs AFR error histogram.

What is a better way to run... MAF only disabling Dynamic Airflow completely, or run Dynamic Airflow to a set RPM and dial in your VE table to blend with the MAF on lower RPMs? LS1 guys swear by SD tunes and not running a MAF, but I've seen many MAF only LSJ tunes.

Running E10 on the car from local gas stations. Wideband seems to sit around 14.2 which should be stoich on E10. Does it make sense to change the AFR in the tune to ~14.2 for the blend of gas then tune the MAF in? I've seen conflicting evidence both ways on here and HP Tuners forums. If you keep the tune at regular ~14.7 do you set a correction for your wideband input in HP Tuners so your ~14.2 'looks' like ~14.7? What's the trick here?

My LC-1 is after my highflow cat in the Clear Image header. That should make it read a bit leaner I believe. How much do I need to worry about this when reading and setting PE WOT AFR? I would hate to think I'm running a safe and reasonable AFR when it's really off by a good amount. Should I go leaner or richer to be safe?

What is the recommended WOT AFR to command from the tune? Max safest AFR? ~11.7-~11.9?

Any secrets to smooth out the bumpy LSJ idle with #60's?

Hoping maybe some of you local guys can chip in with some insight since many of you are master tuners and have lots of experience and have done this many times before. Thanks!

 

Hey everone i thought it would be cool if we had a BBM5 group. So when your not able to get to the computer your still able to chat with CSS.net members. Let me know what you think .. Post some pictures to the Group. Leave events in the calandar section.

thanks

Andrew aka c0baltic

 

Posted in the classifieds, but wanted to see if any local guys were interested.

Looking to trade my GMPP Performance catback for a stock SS catback plus 50 and you cover install. PM me if interested. Don't post, just PM.

Thanks!

 

LOL you want someone to pay to install the stock muffler system back on your car?

 

aloha!

 

aloha

 

Trying to clean out the garage a bit. PM me an offer if anybody is interested in anything...

CX Racing H/E (no leaks, but a bit bent up)
Ingalls TD
ZZP rev1 3 gauge pillar
Black gen 1 halo's (need re-cleared)
HID ballasts
Zenn lowering springs

Also have some stock LSJ parts
Grille, SS/SC polished wheels, springs, catback, pulley, injectors, etc

 

I don't see what's difficult about what I was looking to get..

 

I have some stock SS/SC springs I need to get rid of as well.