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General Suspension: How to Install springs

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Old 03-13-2007, 04:31 PM
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How to Install springs

I used the #1 springs avalible on "Cobalt-Addiction" for $139.99. They claim a 1.25" rear drop and a .75" front drop.

Lets get to it!!!

-Block the front wheels and jack up the rear of the car and. Support it with Jack-Stands.
-SUPPORT (don't raise it up) the rear axel with the jack.
- Remove the lower bolt holding the rear strut on. Thiss one...


-Lower the rear axel slowly
-All you need to do to remove the rear springs is pull them out, they are NOT bolted in anywhere.


They will look like this... Assebled on the left, dissassembled on the right.


-Pull out the Bump Stops (cut if desired), and reinstall the bump stops on your new springs.
- Re-install the assembled springs in your car and use the jack to rais it up and line up the lower strut bolt.


-Replace wheels, lower car, remove blocks under front wheels, and release E-brake (this is when you will see the full drop).
-Here is a before and after of the rear wheel gap if you did it right...

Now the front!!

-Block the back wheels!!!!! & use E-brake.
-Remove this bolt... (The nut is 18 mm)


-Take out the 2 bolts holding the lower part of the front strut on... (The nuts are 18 mm, and the bolts need to be tapped out w/ a hammer)


-Have someone support the strut while you remove these bolts... (the 3 bolts are 13 mm)
(Loosen the 21 mm strut shaft bolt before un-bolting the struts)

This is the assembly you should pull out. (Compared to new spring)


-Use Spring Compressors (avalible at any auto parts store) to compress the springs... (Make sure the compressor is for MacPherson Struts)
(Also make sure to place one compressor closest to the top coil, and the other compressor closest to the bottom coil. This will assure a quicker/more even compression of the spring)


-Once they are compressed enough. remove this bolt on the top... (You will know they are compressed enough by being able to wiggle the spring within the assembly)


-Pull the top plates off... (Clean the mounting plates out, and grease the bearing)


-If you want to cut the bump stop (recomended), it is located in the dist cover. Just push it out and cut it...


-Put the Spring compressers on the new springs and put it all back together... (Make sure the spring is in the proper orientation/location on the bottom mount)
(Also make sure to pull the strut shaft up before trying to re-install everything. This will make life easier when you try to start the 21 mm strut shaft bolt)


-Re-install everything!!!
-Remove blocks from back wheels and E-brake.

Torque specs:

- 21 mm strut shaft bolt = 55 ft-lbs
- 18 mm strut to steering knuckle bolts = 89 ft-lbs
- 13 mm top strut mount bolts = 15 ft-lbs
- 18 mm endlink to strut bolt = 55 ft-lbs for Moogs, 48 ft-lbs for stock


huge THANKS GOES OUT TO JASON (en0onmai)


and RICHIE(SSfamilywagon)!!!


You guys are the ****!! Thank you for all the help fellas.
CIAZ Tuscon Division FTMFW!!!!!

Also, Thanks to Cobalt-Addiction for these Kick-ass springs!!!

I really like these and would recomend them to any one who wants a lower, daily driver. Big bumps suck at low speeds, but once you get on the freeway above 60mph it handles AWSOME, and I really think the ride is BETTER that stock. Corners REALLY sweet.

Please feel free to PM me with any questions.

Last edited by Staged07SS; 12-23-2013 at 09:17 AM.
Old 03-15-2007, 01:15 PM
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And then go and get an alignment done!! lol
Old 03-15-2007, 01:20 PM
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how many people does it take to install springs? lol

good write up tho.
Old 03-15-2007, 01:23 PM
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Hey wheres the before and after pics?
Old 03-15-2007, 03:59 PM
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Yea before and after pics needed.
Old 03-15-2007, 04:03 PM
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What trick did you use to get the top main strut bolt off? I have heard people having trouble getting that one off. I had my car done by a shop, but my gf's spring be in soon and wondered on that bolt?
Old 03-15-2007, 09:47 PM
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just loosen it up a little before you take the strut assembly off the car. Thats what i did. Just be careful and dont take it completely loose cause its what is holding your spring compressed and that could = bad

Oh yea and i didnt even know there were bumpstops in the front (DUH!) Does it matter if i didnt cut it when i installed my Tenzo's? Ahh well its already done anyway and im def not doing it over again.
Old 03-16-2007, 12:08 AM
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Holas, Jason here from the CIAZ Tucson Group.

Ok first, the more the merrier. Between Richie and I we can lower a Coby in less than 45 min. Thats awesome.

Top bolt gets pwned by the impact everytime. We had our own Air Compressor and air tools. Yay!

The bump stops in the front SHOULD be trimmed because it will increase the travel on the suspension and will prevent a "bouncy" feeling. The rears are a take it or leave it. My HHR ended up with nearly a 2.5" drop once settled. I cut the fronts but NOT the back ones. And even when rolling on 20's I still have no issues with them.

Great write up Chris! It was a pleasure dropping your Cobalt.

::BTW, we dropped 3 cars that day in less than 4 hours! And that included dorking around and testing out the cars!::
Old 03-16-2007, 12:25 AM
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that bolt on the strut had me going...thats what took the longest....I didn't realize there were front bumpstops...I think I'll trim mine sometime soon.
How much did you trim the front?
Old 03-16-2007, 01:25 AM
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yes everyone has the prob with the main strut bolt how did you get it off?
Old 03-16-2007, 01:33 AM
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Yea $250 (aprox) for sport lines and install them my self or have the local speed shop do them for $500 (including spring cost). Ill take door #1. Nice write up!
Old 03-16-2007, 02:13 AM
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OK, since most people don't read anything for **** on here. Let me quote myself.


Originally Posted by en0onmai
Top bolt gets pwned by the impact everytime. We had our own Air Compressor and air tools. Yay!
For those of you playing the home game... WE USED AN IMPACT GUN! It's damn near the only way to get the thing off. Otherwise you're stuck asking someone else (ie SHOP) for help. Ok well good luck guys!
Old 03-16-2007, 11:39 AM
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I fixed your misspelled title. BTW, here's my How-To on the same topic I wrote last year:

Front Strut Spring R&R
Old 03-16-2007, 01:11 PM
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No you wont have to get a shop to do it if you dont have an impact. Just take a metric allen key and use it to hold the strut still (you will see what im talking about, its inside the top strut bolt) and use the 21mm socket with a strap wrench around it to get it loose. Search for front spring R&R and in that how-to it explains how to do it this way.

Its alot more of a pain in the ass when you have to use the strap wrench but it can be done without the impact wrench.
Old 03-16-2007, 01:42 PM
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Well the reason I asked is I have tried to do it impact and no impact and mine wouldnt budge!!! So thats why I wanted everyones opinion on how to do this......
Old 03-16-2007, 01:50 PM
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Hmm well are you making sure that the strut isnt spinning? If the strut assembly is off the car already you may have some trouble getting it to come loose.

Not really sure what to tell you. Maybe someone with a little more experience with all this can tell you what is going on with it. At worst take it to a shop that does suspension and let them take apart and reassemble the strut assembly for you. Shouldnt cost more than 25 bucks or so.
Old 03-16-2007, 10:05 PM
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How's the quality on these springs? Are they guaranteed not to sag?
Old 03-19-2007, 09:20 PM
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hey guys, i got my SSC springs and got the fronts done no problem, but the funny part is, the backs dont want to budge. no matter how high i jack that bad boy up, put it on stands and lower the axle, it doesnt want to go....

where are you guys jacking/standing in the rear?, how high does it have to be???

how exactly are the rears supposed to come out...because mine still feel like they are under tension...

thanks
Old 03-19-2007, 09:35 PM
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does anyone know how the TENZO R springs handle i'm intereted in buying them
Old 03-20-2007, 10:45 AM
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BUMMPPP
anyoneee???
can you help?
Old 03-20-2007, 11:01 AM
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Tenzo's handle pretty damn well. I can def feel a difference.

The rear spring are kinda a pain to get out. you have to put the car up on jack stands that arent on the back axle. If you jack the entire rear up and put them on stands then you just lower the back axle down unbolt the strut and yank fairly hard. Mine were in there pretty damn good and took a little convincing to get them out.

Im not real sure why yours arent coming out. if they feel like they are under a load be sure the strut is unbolted and also that you arent jacking up the car by the rear beam.
Old 03-26-2007, 07:31 PM
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Originally Posted by SC07
hey guys, i got my SSC springs and got the fronts done no problem, but the funny part is, the backs dont want to budge. no matter how high i jack that bad boy up, put it on stands and lower the axle, it doesnt want to go....

where are you guys jacking/standing in the rear?, how high does it have to be???

how exactly are the rears supposed to come out...because mine still feel like they are under tension...

thanks
Once you undo the bolt in the very first pic the rear axel should come down and just hang there. At this point there shoulden't be ANY pressure on the rear springs. Rip those bad boys out!!! A pry-bar might help. Good luck.

REAR BEFORE:


AFTER: P.S. this is not me.


FRONT BEFORE:


AFTER:


Here are some chots of mine vs. a stocker
Mine is on the left



Hope you guys like em.

Last edited by BallsoutBalt; 03-26-2007 at 07:31 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Old 03-27-2007, 09:15 AM
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Awesome writeup.

Great quality pics too. I'll be using this and the H&R how to, to do mine this weekend.

Thanks bud!
Old 03-27-2007, 02:14 PM
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Cool Like

Do we like which The girls or the cars ? They both look AWESOME
Old 03-28-2007, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by cobaltcruisin
Awesome writeup.

Great quality pics too. I'll be using this and the H&R how to, to do mine this weekend.

Thanks bud!
Hey thanks man. I love all the posotive feedback I'm getting. And I'm really glad it's helping everyone. *wipes single tear from face*


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