DIY alcohol injection for those of you that want to save some of your hard earned cash and like the feeling when you do something yourself!

PARTS

-Pump- The pump comes from Portable Generators, Pressure Washers, Power Tools, Welders | Northern Tool + Equipment. Part # 2687. It flows 1.02gpm @60psi and is capable over 100psi (adjustable screw on top/bypassing the pressure switch). 3/8 inlet and outlets (female), with no fittings supplied. $69.99

-Nozzles- McMaster-Carr has the nozzles you need. Search for “misting nozzles” . They are just the standard cone spray (not hollow) brass nozzles. They come in sizes m1-m15 (@100psi) and are (I believe) 1/8" NPT male connector (barbed fitting needed). $3.81 each.

-Gauge- The same place as above sells a 0-160psi gauge. You don’t need the gauge but it helps with tuning the pressure of the pump. Part # 3793K13. $9.33

-Check valve/solenoid- There are 2 choices here. You can either get the check valve from Water Injection, Methanol Injection, Alcohol Injection Systems | Coolingmist (Best), which is a 1/4" NPT female (no barbed fittings supplied). It has a 22psi cracking pressure so it will never open under vacuum, and it’s brass. $29.99. Or you can get a solenoid from them for $39.99.

-Boost switch- Adjustable one from coolingmist again. It’s adjustable from 1-25psi, normally open. $24.99

-Reservoir- Go to the local auto parts store and get yourself a radiator overflow. The biggest you can fit the better. ~15 bucks.

-Lines/fittings/misc- Auto store for the lines. 1/4" fuel injection line is best. The total length depends on how you set it up. I like the keep the lines short as possible. A bunch of small hose clamps. The fittings can be bought at home depot (1/4"npt barbed can be found there, but the 1/8"npt will probably have to be bought at the auto store or possibly from McMaster-Carr . You’ll also need some wire. For the pump 10 gauge, and some thinner stuff for the relay/led etc.

-LED- Radioshack. Get whatever color you like. You’ll also need an LED holder from there too.

-Relay/fuse holder- Just a regular 5 terminal automotive relay and a fuse holder. 10-15 amp fuse (blade or tube style both fine).

INSTALLATION

Refer to the diagram for installation. Some things to remember:
- Keep the solenoid or COOLINGMIST check valve within 12" of the nozzle

-Use teflon tape or pipe dope on the fitting. SOLDER your wires. The last thing you need is a wire falling off while on the ragged edge of detonation.

-Don’t take apart the nozzle. If you do and the pill falls out the slotted face faces up. Just don’t do it

-Terminal 87A on the relay is NOT used.

-To test the system (after it’s hooked up of course), turn the ignition on and ground terminal 85.

-Adjusting it is pretty easy. Run the car and build boost slowly. Watch for the led to go on (I believe they are sent out at 10psi closed) and note what psi it’s at. You’ll have to find out how early to turn it on depending on what your car likes. If it bogs it’s too early, or too much pressure, or too big of a nozzle or a combination of those. It you turn it on too late, or have too small of a nozzle, or not enough pressure, or a combination of those you will detonate. You’ll have to research about alcohol on your car to find what’s the best starting combo (what size nozzle, starting psi, and pump psi) for you and go from there.

-I used the rubbing alcohol. You can get it in 90/10 mix, and I think 50/50. You’ll have to look at them at the store. Wal-Mart has the cheap big bottles of it. If you use denatured (home depot) or methanol should use Klotz lube in your pump.

-Keep it clean too; you don’t want clogs in your lines.

To run a dual stage system, measure the resistance across the terminals on the pump and get a power resistor that is ½ of that reading. It has to be at least a 10 watt resistor too or it will fry. Install it according to the RED in the diagram.