Absolutely ridiculous
Senior Member
Joined: 01-19-10
Posts: 1,274
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From: North Carolina
Have an 09, and my rear inboards went at about 11k - crappy pad material. Put in replacements and lubed the hell out of everything I thought needed it, including the e-brake stuff, and it seems to be keeping mine good. I don't winter drive my car much, though (in NJ).
Senior Member
Joined: 08-22-10
Posts: 2,281
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From: Saskatchewan, Canada
https://www.cobaltss.net/forums/how-...brakes-295900/
Just finished the other side today, gonna update the thread.
Pretty much its new rotors and pads every 30k miles /50k KM ...if you let it get bad.
But realistically, if you do new pads every year, you probably wont have to do rotors for a long while.
Just finished the other side today, gonna update the thread.
Pretty much its new rotors and pads every 30k miles /50k KM ...if you let it get bad.
But realistically, if you do new pads every year, you probably wont have to do rotors for a long while.
Senior Member
Joined: 05-07-09
Posts: 1,656
Likes: 4
From: Collingwood, Ont
Yes TC problem.
I had Mr.Powell take a look at my brake system around 50k after the dealer gave me an $1800 quote. Turns out new rear pads and a good lubing was all i needed. I'm sitting @ 110k and am now in the market for new rotors/pads all around. I'm mostly highway but new rotors/pads every 75-100k ain't bad I guess.
I had Mr.Powell take a look at my brake system around 50k after the dealer gave me an $1800 quote. Turns out new rear pads and a good lubing was all i needed. I'm sitting @ 110k and am now in the market for new rotors/pads all around. I'm mostly highway but new rotors/pads every 75-100k ain't bad I guess.
Last edited by Shanedude; Apr 8, 2013 at 02:25 PM. Reason: Add-on.
^^ I remember that. lol Follow Krispy's thread. Shanedude, prolly time to flush that brake fluid ; you can do that up there yourself... inspect the pads if there is pad there you good "tip" check the inside rear pad that wears the fastest....
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Joined: 03-26-08
Posts: 3,420
Likes: 3
From: Somewhere, MI
Take away from my thread that I would be willing to say will improve peoples situations, it involves work which is the unfortunate part.
-Use a good grease (I use SIL GLYDE which seems to hold up well and 8oz has lasted many vehicles- , any OEM sourced grease you could find is probably extremely good due to the amount of testing it goes through )
-If you are like me and are gentle on the brakes: Brake hard often, I've noticed in the past this improves my brake pedal feel as I think the rears tend to get stuck and this free's them up.
Once a year (before and after winter would probably be best):
-Remove pads and run piston out & in
-Flush brake fluid
-Clean out the bracket the pads sit in, file down corrosion, grease the contact points
-Remove and clean off pins, grease liberally
One thing I noticed that is a clear sign that there is a problem is if you look at the Ebrake cable in the center console and each side doesn't pull out roughly the same distance when the ebrake is actuated it is likely that the side that comes out further is having caliper sticking/seizing issues.
-Use a good grease (I use SIL GLYDE which seems to hold up well and 8oz has lasted many vehicles- , any OEM sourced grease you could find is probably extremely good due to the amount of testing it goes through )
-If you are like me and are gentle on the brakes: Brake hard often, I've noticed in the past this improves my brake pedal feel as I think the rears tend to get stuck and this free's them up.
Once a year (before and after winter would probably be best):
-Remove pads and run piston out & in
-Flush brake fluid
-Clean out the bracket the pads sit in, file down corrosion, grease the contact points
-Remove and clean off pins, grease liberally
One thing I noticed that is a clear sign that there is a problem is if you look at the Ebrake cable in the center console and each side doesn't pull out roughly the same distance when the ebrake is actuated it is likely that the side that comes out further is having caliper sticking/seizing issues.
Last edited by krispy; Apr 8, 2013 at 09:03 PM. Reason: Automerged Doublepost
Take away from my thread that I would be willing to say will improve peoples situations, it involves work which is the unfortunate part.
-Use a good grease (I use SIL GLYDE which seems to hold up well and 8oz has lasted many vehicles-SILGLYDE LUBE COMPOUND-- 8 OZ. : Amazon.com : Automotive, any OEM sourced grease you could find is probably extremely good due to the amount of testing it goes through )
-If you are like me and are gentle on the brakes: Brake hard often, I've noticed in the past this improves my brake pedal feel as I think the rears tend to get stuck and this free's them up.
Once a year (before and after winter would probably be best):
-Remove pads and run piston out & in
-Flush brake fluid
-Clean out the bracket the pads sit in, file down corrosion, grease the contact points
-Remove and clean off pins, grease liberally
One thing I noticed that is a clear sign that there is a problem is if you look at the Ebrake cable in the center console and each side doesn't pull out roughly the same distance when the ebrake is actuated it is likely that the side that comes out further is having caliper sticking/seizing issues.
-Use a good grease (I use SIL GLYDE which seems to hold up well and 8oz has lasted many vehicles-SILGLYDE LUBE COMPOUND-- 8 OZ. : Amazon.com : Automotive, any OEM sourced grease you could find is probably extremely good due to the amount of testing it goes through )
-If you are like me and are gentle on the brakes: Brake hard often, I've noticed in the past this improves my brake pedal feel as I think the rears tend to get stuck and this free's them up.
Once a year (before and after winter would probably be best):
-Remove pads and run piston out & in
-Flush brake fluid
-Clean out the bracket the pads sit in, file down corrosion, grease the contact points
-Remove and clean off pins, grease liberally
One thing I noticed that is a clear sign that there is a problem is if you look at the Ebrake cable in the center console and each side doesn't pull out roughly the same distance when the ebrake is actuated it is likely that the side that comes out further is having caliper sticking/seizing issues.
Krispy for the win.
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