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When I was installed them, I noticed that the pin that hold the brembo brakes together is different then the stock one. It's smaller as you can see by this picture :
The end of the pin is also smaller :
It really glides in the hole easily and it's all loose.. I don't think it's normal because that's what holds everything together. I think the old pins were inserted by compression because I had a really hard time to remove them.
So I'm thinking maybe they didn't send the right pins ?
But then I remembered that these also came with the kit :
So maybe their use is to hold the pins ? But I can't figure out where and how they would go..
The kit came with an installation guide but the guide is for normal brakes, not brembo so it's not of any use.
I was also wondering if I need to change the little o-ring that goes at the end of the brake ose when I replace the caliper ? Are they still good if they are arleady used ? That's what they look like :
So if anyone can help me it would be really appreciated.
Looks like you got the wrong pins. Reuse the original ones, hit them gently with some 180 or 220 grit sand paper to get the rust off (or use a rust dissolver). The clip spring thing is for the rear brakes. And for the connection clean up the washer. Also don't just leave your brake lines unhooked you'll drain the brake fluid reservoir and potentially get an air bubble in the abs unit
Looks like you got the wrong pins. Reuse the original ones, hit them gently with some 180 or 220 grit sand paper to get the rust off (or use a rust dissolver). The clip spring thing is for the rear brakes. And for the connection clean up the washer. Also don't just leave your brake lines unhooked you'll drain the brake fluid reservoir and potentially get an air bubble in the abs unit
Reusing the old pins is not an option since I had to cut one to finally be able to remove it.
Also the clip thing came in the front brakes kit, you're sure it's for the rear ones ?
Also, I think it's too late for the brake lines.. I left them unhooked since I was going drain all the liquid and fill it up with brand new one.. What will happend if I indeed get an air bubble in the abs unit ?
Thanks alot for the answer it's really appreciated.
Going off the look of it and memory it looks like the rear clip. There are no clips like that in the front, RA screwed your order up. Get a hold of Powell Race Parts (user/vendor on here) I'd bet his has extra Brembo pins and he's in Port Perry so you wouldn't have to wait for customs to clear your order.
It could cause the abs/esc not to function correctly, you'll have to take it to a dealer and have them bleed the brakes or find someone with a Tech2 or a Snapon electronic that can cycle the ABS
RA sent you the wrong kit and those clips are for the rear brakes as ECaulk stated.
When you want to put fresh fluid in the brake system you don't want to drain the whole system and then refill, unless you're switching to DOT 5 fluid. What you should do is flush out the old fluid with new fluid, there should be a how-to some where in the how-to section.
If Powell doesn't have a pin kit, you can order one from the States, just get it shipped UPS of FedEx so it doesn't get held up in customs.
Ordered the same kit from RockAuto a month ago. Wasn't sure if it came with the pins so I ordered those from GM. Good thing I did as the ones that came with the kit were the same as yours and looked way too short when compared to GM ones.
Morale of this story: When replacing front LNF brake pads, ALWAYS ALWAYS GET OEM FERRODO PADS.
I can't count how many times I've said that now on this forum. But people continue to wanna "upgrade" to something inferior...
It might be presumptuous to think everyone is "upgrading".
I have the powerstop ceramics all around, and yes they are "inferior" but aren't too bad IMO ... however it saves me a lot of wheel washing heart ache. I mean ****, I drive the car from home -> work and that's about as exciting as it gets. I have autoX them a couple times too, and to a layman like me, I can't really tell the difference other than needing to heat them up more first.
Like any ceramic, it pays to warm them up a bit as I leave my street.
Morale of this story: When replacing front LNF brake pads, ALWAYS ALWAYS GET OEM FERRODO PADS.
I can't count how many times I've said that now on this forum. But people continue to wanna "upgrade" to something inferior...
I didn't choose the powerstop kit as an upgrade, it's just that they were 250$ less expensive than the OEM Ferrodo.
Understood. I just don't get it. I replace parts on any one of my cars with stock or, more likely, something better.
In my book, if you can't afford to replace parts with at least OEM quality, you probably can't afford to own that car. But that's probably just me.
Understood. I just don't get it. I replace parts on any one of my cars with stock or, more likely, something better.
In my book, if you can't afford to replace parts with at least OEM quality, you probably can't afford to own that car. But that's probably just me.
Oh I can afford the car not problem. Just don't see the point in spending an extra 300$ wheb the powerstop brakes are just fine for a daily driver. If I would do track with my car then it would be another story.
Morale of this story: When replacing front LNF brake pads, ALWAYS ALWAYS GET OEM FERRODO PADS.
I can't count how many times I've said that now on this forum. But people continue to wanna "upgrade" to something inferior...
Moral of the story Rock Auto doesnt always get everything correct despite their low prices
Understood. I just don't get it. I replace parts on any one of my cars with stock or, more likely, something better.
In my book, if you can't afford to replace parts with at least OEM quality, you probably can't afford to own that car. But that's probably just me.
If the product is listed as an OEM replacement then that is what it is. Theres nothing wrong with getting R1Concepts, Powerstop, EBC, NAPA, etc.
Most of the people here not going back to the actual OEM brakes probably had the horrible binding brakes bad experience that lit up this forum 6 years ago. I am an original owner, don't know how many on here are still. I hadn't had the brakes on my car for more than 10k miles before they were ****. "Oh but you just needed to take the pads off and grease/clean the pins."
yeah? Tell me how many normal people do you know that check their brake pads inside/outside thickness on a new car?
I shouldn't blame the brakes, but now I can relate a bad experience to them. I was tempted to try the Powerstop kit for the next set of brakes and im sorry OP that you found out some useful info for the rest of us :/
If the product is listed as an OEM replacement then that is what it is. Theres nothing wrong with getting R1Concepts, Powerstop, EBC, NAPA, etc.
Most of the people here not going back to the actual OEM brakes probably had the horrible binding brakes bad experience that lit up this forum 6 years ago. I am an original owner, don't know how many on here are still. I hadn't had the brakes on my car for more than 10k miles before they were ****. "Oh but you just needed to take the pads off and grease/clean the pins."
yeah? Tell me how many normal people do you know that check their brake pads inside/outside thickness on a new car?
I shouldn't blame the brakes, but now I can relate a bad experience to them. I was tempted to try the Powerstop kit for the next set of brakes and im sorry OP that you found out some useful info for the rest of us :/
Truth. Those rear pads were crap. Got new, non-OEM pads and new rotors from NAPA and zero problems since.
Moral of the story Rock Auto doesnt always get everything correct despite their low prices
Ha! I'm not sure if it's Rock Auto's fault or the maker of the hoses, but I got a heater hose from them and it's a mirror image of what it should be. I still used it cuz it works.
Read this thread about getting the wrong pins from rock auto.. So i ordered a set of ac delco pins.. Well the Power stop pads came with the correct pins.. So they must have sorted it out..
For people that are having issues with getting the Brembo pins out, they arent pressed in there, they are probably seized in there with rust and brake debris.
What you want to do to get them out is get a wire brush, rust penetrating spray like PB blaster or there is a WD-40 variant you can use. Once youve scrubbed the rust and brake dust off the top of the retainer clip and pin, knock the pin out with a hammer and a punch. I cant remember the punch size exactly (thinking 4-5mm?) You could probably use long arm allen wrench as a punch just as easily... The pins need to be punched from the side facing you and they will slide out the back side (wheel well side).
After you get the pins and retaining clip out, scrub them with a wire brush until shiny. Re-use them. If you feel you need new pins, make sure you order the correct pins. Dont trust aftermarket brands to provide them...
As for bleeding brakes, Dont drain the system. Flush the system.
You can flush a brake system by yourself. Most people say you need two people. You can do it alone if you make a bottle/hose apparatus to catch brake fluid. I use a Pneumatic brake bleeder kit from harborfreight. Works with a compressor. I first suck out all the old fluid in the resovoir. Place the refill bottle in there to constantly add new fluid while the old is drained. Attach the pneumatic component to the bleeder valve on the caliper, apply vacuum, crack bleeder valve open. Press brake pedal till the new fluid is coming out. Should be clear compared to the old dirty fluid. close bleeder valve. Apply vacuum and remove tool. done. This process would prevent any air bubbles from being in the lines.
The order of calipers should be the farthest caliper first to closest caliper last. Passenger rear -> driver rear -> passenger front -> driver front.
Note: I did not have the issue this guy in the video had with the refill bottle being blocked by the hood or over hanging frame of the car. also, I didnt use a seringe to remove the fluid from resovoir. I just removed the black rubber connector on the end of the hose for the bleeder valve part of the tool and vacuumed it out. He mentions you can do that in this video.
I am pretty sure that my pads had never been changed at 130K kms and they were a bit of a pain to get out but they came out with pb blaster and some heavy hammering. This car was winter driven as well.
I also flushed my brake fluid and changed my rotors and pads. Car brakes like new again!
