Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

I did read the thread, i was actually considering buying the ZZP big brake kit last month and now im terrified i wont be able to stop in the rain, ill just keep the stockers.

cluelessk

Noticed it again yesterday after washing my car.

It's pretty simple. If you're not slowing down you need to apply more brake pressure or you're on ice.

andrewcarr1993

iTrader: (5)

I really wouldn't be worried about the ZZP kit, I'd personally just go the stock SS/TC setup though.

slapbetcommissioner

iTrader: (3)

Read post 9

Whitnith

iTrader: (2)

This seriously isn't a cause for concern. You might have to hit the brakes a little harder than you do in dry conditions, and then they work just fine.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

Exactly, they just take a little getting used to. They stop like base model brakes when wet, everyone just gets used to the stopping power of the Brembos

swanman35

Wjy are people making such a big deal about this? It's wet out.. obviously that impacts braking. Don't be racing in the rain and you'll be ok. Do you expect the brakes to work perfectly in the rain like when dry? Lol

andrewcarr1993

iTrader: (5)

I might put Brembo's on my IRL, I have an extra set...

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

slotted rotors and pad material affect it. Slotted about eliminates it in the rain. Softer compound in winter is far superior. I run a cheep Bendix Metalmaster on my Brembos in the winter on a heavier car and they are awesome.

you get nothing for nothing and a Ferodo HP1000 performance pad is not designed or intended to be used in extreme winter conditions. Racing in the rain if it wasnt a variable rain day, we would always run softer pads, block brake ducts, change or disconnect sway bars, even run softer rate springs and different compound tires. Even hand grooved A6 auto cross tires for intermediate conditions.

For your Brembo cobalt, change the pad for the winter; slot the rotors for the summer

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

I just adjust my method of braking when it's wet. Quick stab down and then let up to normal braking when the pads start biting.

slapbetcommissioner

iTrader: (3)

That method of breaking is the way to go in wet.

I don't think anywone is making a big deal but it something to take note of.

They are not like base model brakes in the rain. Once dry they are far better but under that imediate brake pressure it is like having no breaks at all.

Tap release and then press works well and also in heavy rain conditions feathering the break pedal while driving keeps the rotors warm and skims water off them.

ECaulk

iTrader: (6)

I have yet to have the no brakes at all feeling and i'm running stock rotors and pads. Its a delayed requires more pressure brake or a quick release and re-press. Thats why I say they're like base model if you don't do the re-press, the initial stopping power is less requiring more pedal.

SSlobalt

Go ahead and try to explain to my wife why my fancy Brembo brakes don't work as well as her Civic brakes in the rain. I dare you.

cluelessk

My morning commute was probably the worst it could of been for brakes.

Right around freezing with moderate rain, snow and freezing rain.

You can tell instantly that you just need to apply a little more pressure until brakes clear themselves.

rchiwawa

My guess is that all the people who have very noticeable drop off in brake bite when wet with stock pads and rotors also have e-brakes not holding worth a damn and stuck rear calipers... that we've all had at one point with these cars. After I rebuilt my factory rear calipers I never had an e-brake or wet braking problem but before I did wet braking was sub par and distances wet or dry unacceptably long... with all the recalls I am annoyed GM still hasn't recalled out cars for the rear calipers. Not everyone has the patience to rebuild and rehone these thigns and they were by far the most difficult calipers I have ever torn apart.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

^^^ there is no doubt that rear brake height adjustment affects overal brake pedal apply height. So good advice. Rebuilding the rear calipers on TC doesn't work for me the rear handbrake mechanism is not rebuildable its impossible to reassemble the lower circular spring into the e brake Center post . I just replace the caliper theses days. Unless you live below Kentucky and west of the Rockies the corrosion damage is too much. I see it everyday.

For example on Gloria's new (to her ) 2007 Avalanche ( low miles) the front caliper bleed nipples were corroded and broke off while bleeding in spite of penetrating oil and heat. So I purchased used calipers from a Texas boneyard off eBay and they were like brand new no corrosion at all. 50 bucks.

I hate road salt. That's why my redline sleeps every winter. Poor wintrbtr2 SAAB gets oiled and washed 2x a week in winter. But now it's exhaust system is rotted out FROM THE OUTSIDE !!! FML. Lol

That's why CAB bolts on Cobalts up here are such a pita. But for sure slotted rotors help initial brake apply in the rain.

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

Brakes have been a point of nuisance for me on this car. When I bought the car last year the brakes were GONE, to the point where when I drove it home from the dealer I almost crashed it trying to stop coming off a ramp. All 4 pads were worn down to the metal and the rotors had a nice lip in them. When I replaced all the brake pads and rotors the next day, I had two brackets that were completely seized on the slide pins. A few months later the ebrake just stopped working at all, even though it was pulling tight on the cable. When I addressed that issue, the OEM replacement ebrake cables were longer then the ones on the car to begin with, then I found the rear caliper was leaking past the bleeder screws for whatever reason, even though they were tight and had the oem gaskets on them. Replaced one of those calipers, only to have that caliper leak at the bleeder screw, which I managed to fix by coating the bleeder screw threads in loctite thread sealant 562. The whole brake system has been a whole mess of problems. The only bright spot in all of this is how much the goodridge stainless steel brake line kit improved the pedal feel and braking response. Literally a night and day difference with the full 6 line kit for 100 bucks.

TotalChaos

Which SS brake line kit did you use? I am not a huge fan of the mushy brakes. Was it the FTP kit? Thanks!

Soofisahab

iTrader: (2)

Would running softer compound pads all the time be detrimental? In AZ so extra hot in summer, don't track it. Gotta do the brakes soon...

Spawne32

iTrader: (1)

I got a goodridge 6 line kit off ebay for 70 dollars off retail, brand new in box. Although I have LSJ brakes not the brembos.

Powell Race Parts

iTrader: (3)

i doubt it, but the HP1000 is a very good pad. I would stick with that if I were you. But you can always try something like the bendix metalmaster they are cheap enough. And if you dont like them you can learn from it, and buy HP1000

TotalChaos

Thanks. It has been difficult to find SS brake lines for the SS/TC Brembo combo.

I am not a fan of the brakes either and have yet to drive this car in the rain (only had it two weeks) so this thread interests me.

I was reading a little bit about brake fluid and some like ATE. Any other suggestions for someone trying to bolster the braking power but more importantly pedal feel for this car?

cluelessk

I'm getting a stupid squeal out of the back brakes again. Had them disassembled a few months ago for service and they're causing issues again.

Would a broken ebrake mechanism cause brakes to make noise or function wrong?

YelloEye

iTrader: (3)

Goodridge SS lines. Got em on mine, pedal feel is fantastic.