08-10 SS Turbocharged General Discussion Discuss the 2008 - 2009 Chevy Cobalt SS Turbocharged. On sale since the second quarter of 2008.

Cam Position Sensor location

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Old 08-02-2017, 01:05 PM
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Cam Position Sensor location

2009 Silver CobaltSS- Sedan, 60K miles

So I have an intermittent P0011 code. Usually blows under WOT. The car is not acting up other than blowing the code. I checked my cam position actuators and their resistance is around 11 ohms- so I think they are OK. Although my car does have 60K miles on it and I I have replacements coming as preventative maintenance. I use redline oil at the computer specified intervals.

I am trying to find the cam position sensor locations. Especially the intake. I cannot find them front the top of the motor. I would think they would be off the right or left side of the head/valve cover- but unless they are under the timing cover- I am missing them. Can anyone point me in the right direction? Be specific, as I can be a little slow sometimes. :-)

TIA
Old 08-02-2017, 02:02 PM
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They are a little tricky to get to with all the stuff on the car but here they are:
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Old 08-02-2017, 03:27 PM
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Thank you. Mine is hiding under some oil and dirt. Damn leaky valve cover.

I assume the one to the left, (closer to the front of the car), is the intake sensor...
Old 08-02-2017, 04:01 PM
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Correct. The exhaust will be easier than pictured because the picture is an LDK with a cam-driven vacuum pump sticking out which you wouldn't have.
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Old 08-02-2017, 04:57 PM
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Haven't heard of sensors being the issue before. It's usually the actuators.
Old 08-02-2017, 05:11 PM
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I'll guess it's the actuators.
Old 08-02-2017, 05:46 PM
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Same I had only heard of the actuators. It's entirely possible that the sensor is screwed up, but doubtful. If the resistance measures ok which it looks like it is, you can try cleaning them. If they get gunky then they won't work right.
Old 08-02-2017, 07:24 PM
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I am going to test your theories by only swapping out the actuators 1st. After all, they are real easy to replace. I will drive the car around next week and see if it codes again before thinking about doing the sensor. I am out of town the rest of this week- so I'll update when I get back.
Old 08-03-2017, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by ESP41
I am going to test your theories by only swapping out the actuators 1st. After all, they are real easy to replace. I will drive the car around next week and see if it codes again before thinking about doing the sensor. I am out of town the rest of this week- so I'll update when I get back.
At least you were lucky enough to get a code.

My cam actuators were causing stubbling issues with no codes. 120k miles When I pulled them out the screens on them were very dirty. Was pretty obvious they weren't functioning correctly.
Old 08-03-2017, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by umrdyldo
At least you were lucky enough to get a code.

My cam actuators were causing stubbling issues with no codes. 120k miles When I pulled them out the screens on them were very dirty. Was pretty obvious they weren't functioning correctly.
I really need to pull mine out and check/clean them
Old 08-16-2017, 12:00 AM
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I've run a tank of gas thru the car after changing just the actuators. No codes. I'll take that as a win. So even though the actuators ohmed out OK, they can still be the problem.




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