Car Bucking/Jerkin wial cruising
09-02-2013, 08:42 AM
#26
Senior Member
this is why i don't have an interceptor. ignorance is bliss haha
as long as my car feels like it's running fine im happy. watching things go apeshit on a gauge would only make me worry more about minor bugs like this.
as long as my car feels like it's running fine im happy. watching things go apeshit on a gauge would only make me worry more about minor bugs like this.
09-02-2013, 03:45 PM
#27
Senior Member
09-03-2013, 08:46 PM
#33
09-12-2013, 07:42 AM
#34
Nothin Stock
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a lil update, tryed the last 2 nights trying to get 02 swapped out, an no luck, so illpay someone to do it, also now getting a consisant CEL p0030 with the p2096, a/f gauge used t not work the odd time now since the p0030 is triggered. a/f gauge wont read at all, still keep u updated
12-08-2013, 12:43 PM
#36
O2 Did it for sure? My car is doing this and Trifecta said
"There does appear to be a slight issue with your accelerator pedal
though. There were a few funky sections in your log where it appears
you tapped the throttle rapidly, making it go from 0% throttle position
to about 25% and points inbetween. It doesn't make sense that you'd do
that though. Did you notice anything like that while driving the car?"
Car bucked pretty good last night also. Seems to do it when im cruising. Does a pretty light stumble that doesnt shake the whole car. Kind of like a misfire
"There does appear to be a slight issue with your accelerator pedal
though. There were a few funky sections in your log where it appears
you tapped the throttle rapidly, making it go from 0% throttle position
to about 25% and points inbetween. It doesn't make sense that you'd do
that though. Did you notice anything like that while driving the car?"
Car bucked pretty good last night also. Seems to do it when im cruising. Does a pretty light stumble that doesnt shake the whole car. Kind of like a misfire
12-08-2013, 06:55 PM
#37
What may be happening there is your pedal position sensor on your throttle pedal may be acting up, causing the ECU to think that you're suddenly changing the throttle like that with your foot.
What I would suggest is plug in a scan gauge, Dashhawk, Dashdaq, HPT, or whatever you like to monitor with, or start a Trifecta log with the key turned to the on position but the engine not running. Then change what you're monitoring to the throttle pedal position parameter, and slowly push the pedal back and forth between full up and full down. If you see the throttle parameter suddenly jump on the screen/log similarly to what you're talking about then you've got a pedal sensor going out.
You can do the same thing with the throttle plate position parameter to make sure a sensor isn't going out on the throttle body itself. I believe there may be more than one so that they can cross-check each other and throw a code if one is off, so this seems like a less likely possibility.
If the throttle pedal position sensor is actually going out, you'll need a new throttle pedal assembly. I don't believe you can get just the sensor.
What I would suggest is plug in a scan gauge, Dashhawk, Dashdaq, HPT, or whatever you like to monitor with, or start a Trifecta log with the key turned to the on position but the engine not running. Then change what you're monitoring to the throttle pedal position parameter, and slowly push the pedal back and forth between full up and full down. If you see the throttle parameter suddenly jump on the screen/log similarly to what you're talking about then you've got a pedal sensor going out.
You can do the same thing with the throttle plate position parameter to make sure a sensor isn't going out on the throttle body itself. I believe there may be more than one so that they can cross-check each other and throw a code if one is off, so this seems like a less likely possibility.
If the throttle pedal position sensor is actually going out, you'll need a new throttle pedal assembly. I don't believe you can get just the sensor.
12-09-2013, 05:34 PM
#39
On my reply, I meant the guy that posted right above me.
That's great that you got yours fixed though!
In my case with the similar issues I was having, it turns out I may have had a loose VSS causing my issues. It appeared it was loose. I'll find out after finishing the F40 swap.
That's great that you got yours fixed though!
In my case with the similar issues I was having, it turns out I may have had a loose VSS causing my issues. It appeared it was loose. I'll find out after finishing the F40 swap.
12-09-2013, 09:30 PM
#42
What may be happening there is your pedal position sensor on your throttle pedal may be acting up, causing the ECU to think that you're suddenly changing the throttle like that with your foot.
What I would suggest is plug in a scan gauge, Dashhawk, Dashdaq, HPT, or whatever you like to monitor with, or start a Trifecta log with the key turned to the on position but the engine not running. Then change what you're monitoring to the throttle pedal position parameter, and slowly push the pedal back and forth between full up and full down. If you see the throttle parameter suddenly jump on the screen/log similarly to what you're talking about then you've got a pedal sensor going out.
You can do the same thing with the throttle plate position parameter to make sure a sensor isn't going out on the throttle body itself. I believe there may be more than one so that they can cross-check each other and throw a code if one is off, so this seems like a less likely possibility.
If the throttle pedal position sensor is actually going out, you'll need a new throttle pedal assembly. I don't believe you can get just the sensor.
What I would suggest is plug in a scan gauge, Dashhawk, Dashdaq, HPT, or whatever you like to monitor with, or start a Trifecta log with the key turned to the on position but the engine not running. Then change what you're monitoring to the throttle pedal position parameter, and slowly push the pedal back and forth between full up and full down. If you see the throttle parameter suddenly jump on the screen/log similarly to what you're talking about then you've got a pedal sensor going out.
You can do the same thing with the throttle plate position parameter to make sure a sensor isn't going out on the throttle body itself. I believe there may be more than one so that they can cross-check each other and throw a code if one is off, so this seems like a less likely possibility.
If the throttle pedal position sensor is actually going out, you'll need a new throttle pedal assembly. I don't believe you can get just the sensor.
And it fixed it completely?
12-28-2013, 09:17 PM
#46
i just replaced the upstream o2 sensor and my throttle body....verdict is
feels better haha when i came to a stop the rpms didnt idle up like before. once i drive in some stop and go ill find out if the random ruff bucking has gone or after i drive a bit more
i know this is in a lnf thread haha lsj here
feels better haha when i came to a stop the rpms didnt idle up like before. once i drive in some stop and go ill find out if the random ruff bucking has gone or after i drive a bit more
i know this is in a lnf thread haha lsj here
12-31-2013, 06:38 PM
#47
i just replaced the upstream o2 sensor and my throttle body....verdict is
feels better haha when i came to a stop the rpms didnt idle up like before. once i drive in some stop and go ill find out if the random ruff bucking has gone or after i drive a bit more
i know this is in a lnf thread haha lsj here
feels better haha when i came to a stop the rpms didnt idle up like before. once i drive in some stop and go ill find out if the random ruff bucking has gone or after i drive a bit more
i know this is in a lnf thread haha lsj here
01-06-2014, 03:03 PM
#48
Update on mine:
I had started getting some rattles when going over small bumps, and after some inspection I found that the passenger suspension spring had relaxed a bit and the rear control arm bushing bolt seemed a bit loose when I checked them. I tightened up and preloaded the coilover springs 5mm, and re-tightened the rear CAB bolts to spec, and not only have the rattles gone away, but the spark timing jumping / car bucking has also.
What may have been happening was that the CAB bolt(s) were just loose enough for the control arm to move around too much in the subframe cradle it sits in, and the movement slack caused a back and forth jerking between between the control arm (basically the car's wheel) and rest of the car. This would explain how the car would do it's bucking/jerking/spark timing jumping thing independent of any tune flash or general powertrain changes, and wouldn't do it when accelerating or would do it less when the car was loaded down with people or gas.
I've tested it out for a few days now, with no spark timing jumps when it would normally happen every few seconds, so it appears it may be fixed now. I'll post up again if that's not the case, but this appears to be closed now. So if you have similar issues, check that your rear control arm bolts are tightened to spec. It also helped first gear on-off throttle transition to be smoother.
I had started getting some rattles when going over small bumps, and after some inspection I found that the passenger suspension spring had relaxed a bit and the rear control arm bushing bolt seemed a bit loose when I checked them. I tightened up and preloaded the coilover springs 5mm, and re-tightened the rear CAB bolts to spec, and not only have the rattles gone away, but the spark timing jumping / car bucking has also.
What may have been happening was that the CAB bolt(s) were just loose enough for the control arm to move around too much in the subframe cradle it sits in, and the movement slack caused a back and forth jerking between between the control arm (basically the car's wheel) and rest of the car. This would explain how the car would do it's bucking/jerking/spark timing jumping thing independent of any tune flash or general powertrain changes, and wouldn't do it when accelerating or would do it less when the car was loaded down with people or gas.
I've tested it out for a few days now, with no spark timing jumps when it would normally happen every few seconds, so it appears it may be fixed now. I'll post up again if that's not the case, but this appears to be closed now. So if you have similar issues, check that your rear control arm bolts are tightened to spec. It also helped first gear on-off throttle transition to be smoother.
Last edited by Stamina; 01-06-2014 at 03:47 PM.
01-07-2014, 01:26 AM
#50
Update on mine:
I had started getting some rattles when going over small bumps, and after some inspection I found that the passenger suspension spring had relaxed a bit and the rear control arm bushing bolt seemed a bit loose when I checked them. I tightened up and preloaded the coilover springs 5mm, and re-tightened the rear CAB bolts to spec, and not only have the rattles gone away, but the spark timing jumping / car bucking has also.
What may have been happening was that the CAB bolt(s) were just loose enough for the control arm to move around too much in the subframe cradle it sits in, and the movement slack caused a back and forth jerking between between the control arm (basically the car's wheel) and rest of the car. This would explain how the car would do it's bucking/jerking/spark timing jumping thing independent of any tune flash or general powertrain changes, and wouldn't do it when accelerating or would do it less when the car was loaded down with people or gas.
I've tested it out for a few days now, with no spark timing jumps when it would normally happen every few seconds, so it appears it may be fixed now. I'll post up again if that's not the case, but this appears to be closed now. So if you have similar issues, check that your rear control arm bolts are tightened to spec. It also helped first gear on-off throttle transition to be smoother.
I had started getting some rattles when going over small bumps, and after some inspection I found that the passenger suspension spring had relaxed a bit and the rear control arm bushing bolt seemed a bit loose when I checked them. I tightened up and preloaded the coilover springs 5mm, and re-tightened the rear CAB bolts to spec, and not only have the rattles gone away, but the spark timing jumping / car bucking has also.
What may have been happening was that the CAB bolt(s) were just loose enough for the control arm to move around too much in the subframe cradle it sits in, and the movement slack caused a back and forth jerking between between the control arm (basically the car's wheel) and rest of the car. This would explain how the car would do it's bucking/jerking/spark timing jumping thing independent of any tune flash or general powertrain changes, and wouldn't do it when accelerating or would do it less when the car was loaded down with people or gas.
I've tested it out for a few days now, with no spark timing jumps when it would normally happen every few seconds, so it appears it may be fixed now. I'll post up again if that's not the case, but this appears to be closed now. So if you have similar issues, check that your rear control arm bolts are tightened to spec. It also helped first gear on-off throttle transition to be smoother.
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