Cold start driving?
#26
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#27
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Fact is, the Cobalt SS turbo cars ******* hate it when they aren't warmed up.
Secondly, cats work best when hot, so if you are boosting before it's warm then you are lowering the efficacy of the cat and will probably do just as much damage environmentally.
So take the 20 seconds and warm up the car a smidge.
#28
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One could also note that driving a car warms up the cats faster than idling, thereby getting to peak efficiency sooner. There are also plenty of articles a quick Google away that talk about how warming up modern cars is unnecessary.
But as I said in my previous post, to each their own. I'm not telling anyone to not warm up their cars, but trying to find justification in doing so doesn't change the fact that it's wasteful. A recent debate between Bill Nye and Ken Ham showed just how hard it is to change someone's mind even when substantial evidence is presented.
But as I said in my previous post, to each their own. I'm not telling anyone to not warm up their cars, but trying to find justification in doing so doesn't change the fact that it's wasteful. A recent debate between Bill Nye and Ken Ham showed just how hard it is to change someone's mind even when substantial evidence is presented.
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#32
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I've been late waking up for work before but I always let the cat warm up cycle finish before I go anywhere, preferably I wait until at least 120°F to start off.. if I'm late I'm late... so long as it's not four hours late I'm getting half a point and be it 2min or 59min late they take an hour of PA time to cover it...
No reason to bash the car because I couldn't wake up hah
No reason to bash the car because I couldn't wake up hah
#33
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One could also note that driving a car warms up the cats faster than idling, thereby getting to peak efficiency sooner. There are also plenty of articles a quick Google away that talk about how warming up modern cars is unnecessary.
But as I said in my previous post, to each their own. I'm not telling anyone to not warm up their cars, but trying to find justification in doing so doesn't change the fact that it's wasteful. A recent debate between Bill Nye and Ken Ham showed just how hard it is to change someone's mind even when substantial evidence is presented.
But as I said in my previous post, to each their own. I'm not telling anyone to not warm up their cars, but trying to find justification in doing so doesn't change the fact that it's wasteful. A recent debate between Bill Nye and Ken Ham showed just how hard it is to change someone's mind even when substantial evidence is presented.
But I think most will agree that driving and boosting a cold car will do damage in the long run. By how much, who knows.
#37
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1 litre=$1.30
4 litre=$5.20
520 cents divided into 60 minutes....8.6 cents per minute? Forgive me I'm no mathematician and am quite happily stoned at the moment, are my numbers right?
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Absolutely it can cause excessive wear if you beat on it before it's warm. But just driving normally is perfectly safe. For those of us that treat the throttle as an on/off switch, a few minutes of warming up is probably a good idea.
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#42
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The only time the throttle response acts up on me is if the engine is cold started and I take off before the cam phasing overlap drops to 0. It can take some time if it's particularly cold outside for the RPD overlap readout to zero. It is always under a minute for my stock LNF parked and more typically 30 seconds. After that it behaves as I'd expect.
Taking off before that and still in (Cat)warmup mode I can get it to bog on moderate acceleration within a minute of cold starting and taking off but its not particularly consistent in regard to sequential repeatability. or even cold start to cold start. More consistently I can get it to oscillate acceleration (light herk'n'jerk)or decel in first gear and especially when >2k rpm and giving or retarding the throttle input for speed control.
Speculating one step further, who's looked at how cold oil interacts with the cam phasers?
If you have the RPD I don't see the possible harm taking off and driving sensibly when the came overlap is 0 at idle. Otherwise the change in exhaust note and idle dropping to 900rpm is the cue. I could be wrong...
Taking off before that and still in (Cat)warmup mode I can get it to bog on moderate acceleration within a minute of cold starting and taking off but its not particularly consistent in regard to sequential repeatability. or even cold start to cold start. More consistently I can get it to oscillate acceleration (light herk'n'jerk)or decel in first gear and especially when >2k rpm and giving or retarding the throttle input for speed control.
If I were to guess I'd have to say it's because everything inside your engine hasn't warmed up yet, so it's chemical properties aren't what they are when they are warm. The viscosity of cold oil is a bit different when it's cold(specially with this frigid winter we've been having on the NE) so nothing inside your engine is going to move as freely or easily as normal. Your turbo will not spool as fast since the oil is providing more resistance same goes for the super charger and any other engine components.
I don't know if this is right or not, when I start my car up from a cold start I tend to take it easy till it gets closer to operating temps before I dig in it. On extremely cold days I'll let my car warm up for 10 mins first.
I don't know if this is right or not, when I start my car up from a cold start I tend to take it easy till it gets closer to operating temps before I dig in it. On extremely cold days I'll let my car warm up for 10 mins first.
If you have the RPD I don't see the possible harm taking off and driving sensibly when the came overlap is 0 at idle. Otherwise the change in exhaust note and idle dropping to 900rpm is the cue. I could be wrong...
Last edited by rchiwawa; 03-04-2014 at 10:47 PM. Reason: Note: The car has been like this since I took it home. It currently has 110k miles
#46
Never hurts to be on the absolute side of safe, though.
#47
If I were to guess I'd have to say it's because everything inside your engine hasn't warmed up yet, so it's chemical properties aren't what they are when they are warm. The viscosity of cold oil is a bit different when it's cold(specially with this frigid winter we've been having on the NE) so nothing inside your engine is going to move as freely or easily as normal. Your turbo will not spool as fast since the oil is providing more resistance same goes for the super charger and any other engine components.
I don't know if this is right or not, when I start my car up from a cold start I tend to take it easy till it gets closer to operating temps before I dig in it. On extremely cold days I'll let my car warm up for 10 mins first.
I don't know if this is right or not, when I start my car up from a cold start I tend to take it easy till it gets closer to operating temps before I dig in it. On extremely cold days I'll let my car warm up for 10 mins first.
Last edited by rchiwawa; 03-04-2014 at 10:53 PM. Reason: missing word hindering clarity added
#48
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Lol cmon you do 1 WOT pull and use as much gas as who knows how many minutes of idling...
1 litre=$1.30
4 litre=$5.20
520 cents divided into 60 minutes....8.6 cents per minute? Forgive me I'm no mathematician and am quite happily stoned at the moment, are my numbers right?
1 litre=$1.30
4 litre=$5.20
520 cents divided into 60 minutes....8.6 cents per minute? Forgive me I'm no mathematician and am quite happily stoned at the moment, are my numbers right?
#49
The coldest I've seen was like 4*, it's typically not that cold here (even tho I know others have seen far lower)